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I imploded my winch.

The King Machine

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I can't stress how lucky I was to have this spare winch case. When I bought my M35a2 this winch rolled around the bed for a few weeks, then pickled in dead leaves and water for another few weeks. Not to mention the previous owner.
Alas is does not happen often, but I got lucky this time. I view this as a kick in the pants to get motivated. These are pictures of the new/old housing just taking it apart and cleaning. The last picture is of my PTO linkage. I see about 3/16" deflection over 6 " upward toward the cab. Hard to see in the picture. I believe this was the start of the problem like clinto called. I failed by not checking the shear pin prior to the event, also by leaving the bumper handle locked into the PTO. I'lll be pulling the winch out of the Deuce this weekend. I cant wait to pull it apart.
 

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The King Machine

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I still haven't completed this task. Its been on the back burner for long enough.

This is thread is gold, so much passion for the hobby displayed :driver:

So much wisdom, only now a few years later can I truly appreciate this thread. 😄

:mrgreen:

I don't know whether to try and delete this thread or try and preserve it for historical significance. 😂

shortly I'll post some pictures for a rebuild for the winch or perhaps ODNorth might still have something laying around.

classic stuff.
 
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Bhpdbrad

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Keep it!

I enjoyed reading this as I learn more from happening upon these threads than trying to use the search feature - which tends to (often) lead me to places of irrelevance.

For those nay sayers... I also know how to read a TM.... but a video - like the one posted - is worth its weight in gold. I have said before... I wish this site had a "how-to" thread/section that included a lot more videos. Trust me, I'm not 'lazy' by any means - it's just I'm a visual learner.

Thanks again. I'm checking my shear pin tomorrow. (and brushing up on the TM's)
 

Floridianson

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Tom,

I understand how it operates and how many men it takes to operate the truck. Friend I'm willing to bet I could educate you how how to operate this vehicle. In the conditions it was designed to be used.

First side note you don't have to read a TM but read the leaver on the winch with arrows. In gage/ disengage. Also there is the safety latch to keep it disengaged when not in use.
I bet 100 bucks on Tom.
On another side note I chuckle just a bit when someone comes up to me when I am in my 5 ton and they say I use to work on those. It's a Deuce right. I just have to chuckle and correct them.
 
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clinto

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series 18 warn shouldn't be too much of a step back ;)
I have a Series 18 on one end of my truck and a factory 10K lb PTO on the other end. I think I'm qualified to weigh in here.

The electric is perfectly fine if it's what you have, but it's not comparable to the PTO. Less cable, way less duty cycle, the reliability issues inherent to electric winches (i.e. a while of non-use and you get stuck solenoids, etc), etc. Not to mention cost of service/rebuild. Let's face it-with the factory winch, unless you blow it up (and in 11 years on SS I've seen maybe 3-5 people actually blow theirs up) your only cost is maybe $90 worth of seals every 25 years. Wait until you have to re-motor that series 18 in 10 years.

Obligatory proof:

IMAG1059.jpgIMAG1111.jpgIMAG1058.jpg



20150814_183831.jpg20150815_194334.jpg20150918_190143.jpg20150918_194143.jpg20150918_194934.jpg20150918_194941.jpg

Not to mention that even though I got a screaming good deal on the winch, I'm still into the rear winch installation for what a factory take off front winch would cost.
 

rustystud

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series 18 warn shouldn't be too much of a step back ;)
They both have good and bad points. The OEM winch can hold twice as much rope as the Warn 18 series and pull over 2,000 Ibs more. Now the electric can be operated with the engine off. No need to have two people "safely" run the winch. You can stand near by and watch what is happening, not stuck in the cab shouting is everything OK ! The electric winch is less complicated. No drivelines, or PTO's to go wrong or break. Just plug-in the cable and push the button.
I went with a Warn 18 series since it was far cheaper to buy and I could basically mount it out of sight. With the two "snatch blocks" I bought I'm well over the pulling capacity of a stock winch. I just have to carry some extra cable when using the blocks.
 

rosco

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Good Thread. Having considerable winch time on prior winch & boom trucks, especially an M211, I had not been exposed to the multiple gearing the M35 PTO offers. Shortly after I got the M35 I had occasion to use the winch to recover my farm tractor that I broke through ice with on a pond. It wasn't a bad recovery, but I had about all the line out to reach it. Only had to move the tractor a few feet, and it was out. I tried to use the high speed gear to recover the line - could not engage it - I could what I thought was go through it, but not use the gear. That's my point!

Earlier, PTO adjustment was touched on. Its very important. When I put a clutch in the truck, I did seals in the PTO. I found its shifting rail with the detent grooves had been installed backwards & the shift handle readjusted for 1st gear & reverse - 2nd (the high speed gear) could not be engaged that way. No telling who worked on it or when. No lube in the winch when I got it - it needed seals too.
 

rustystud

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I have a Series 18 on one end of my truck and a factory 10K lb PTO on the other end. I think I'm qualified to weigh in here.

The electric is perfectly fine if it's what you have, but it's not comparable to the PTO. Less cable, way less duty cycle, the reliability issues inherent to electric winches (i.e. a while of non-use and you get stuck solenoids, etc), etc. Not to mention cost of service/rebuild. Let's face it-with the factory winch, unless you blow it up (and in 11 years on SS I've seen maybe 3-5 people actually blow theirs up) your only cost is maybe $90 worth of seals every 25 years. Wait until you have to re-motor that series 18 in 10 years.

Obligatory proof:

View attachment 670595View attachment 670596View attachment 670597



View attachment 670598View attachment 670599View attachment 670600View attachment 670601View attachment 670602View attachment 670603

Not to mention that even though I got a screaming good deal on the winch, I'm still into the rear winch installation for what a factory take off front winch would cost.
The Warn Severe Duty 18 series is far superior to the standard 4X4 winches out there. The electric winch needs far less mechanical devices to support them (Drivelines, PTO's, Shear Pins and such) . That is the reason the military went with them now instead of a mechanical winch. Yes all electric winches have a duty cycle, but unless your logging with it (which I have done) you don't need a 100% duty cycle winch. As far as having to replace the solenoids all the time, I owned an old Warn winch for over 30 years and used that poor old thing mercilessly and it never lost a solenoid or the motor, and I'm pretty sure this new motor will last far beyond 10 years. It's all in how you take care of your equipment. After a day out in the mud and crud I would "clean" everything including the winch. I made sure the electrical connections where good and tight and had some dielectric grease on them. Of course this new Warn series 18 doesn't have that concern since everything is fully incased in potting urethane. So for all the "naysayers" out there, the Warn electric winch is a viable option for our deuces. Personally I feel the Hydraulic style winch is the best of all, and the most costly. Maybe someday.
 
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rustystud

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Another thing to mention is that the factory winch is dependent on the transmission and PTO to function. Now PTO's are getting few and far between and you cannot even buy all the bearings to rebuild them anymore. So what happens when your PTO decides to head South ? Your stuck.
 

tobyS

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Where is the conclusion.... with pictures? I want to know the inner (probably brass) gear condition. It looks a lot like my boom rotator. which destroyed the center bearing and about 1/2 of the housing that mates with the big ring. I didn't have a spare case and had to make new parts from steel. Good thing it (the case) was cast steel and not cast iron. Amazing but both my gears were fine. That repair has held for 26 years (knocking on wood table) and had some seriously abusive side pulling.
 

rosco

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I believe "HIJACK" is the proper word here. The topic is & was about the repair, operation & maintenance of a PTO powered winch commonly found on the M35, a vehicle that is some 50 years old. Few would doubt that technology has marched on, and perhaps those who wish to extrol the virtues of the electric which could start a thread doing just that.

In the meantime, this old time vehicle could still use a little modern day understanding to help preserve some of its kind that still survive. Thank you, in case my frustration is obvious.
 

rustystud

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I believe "HIJACK" is the proper word here. The topic is & was about the repair, operation & maintenance of a PTO powered winch commonly found on the M35, a vehicle that is some 50 years old. Few would doubt that technology has marched on, and perhaps those who wish to extrol the virtues of the electric which could start a thread doing just that.

In the meantime, this old time vehicle could still use a little modern day understanding to help preserve some of its kind that still survive. Thank you, in case my frustration is obvious.
Sorry for your frustration "rosco" , but sometimes conversations "evolve" . Actually this thread started as a "what" happened to my "70" year old designed winch on a "70" year old truck design. The only way to "improve" it would be to replace all the key components with modern steel ones which would be extremely expensive. There are several modern winches out there that could be adapted to fit this application but if your only interested in using the "original" type unit then your best bet would be to find a good used one elsewhere . So actually the way the conversation has evolved on this thread since the beginning over "4 years ago" is understandable.
 
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