Ignition switch (actual switch not cylinder) wiring...

[TechnoWeenie]

So....I got muh handy dandy meter, TM, and some civvy diagrams...

I isolated the ignition, accessory, and starter wires..

I'm getting +12v on both red wires at all times...

Brown is accy...

Yellow is start...BUT....I'm showing 24V on crank....shouldn 't that be 12V? 12V to operate the solenoid/relay which then puts 24v to the starter?....

I also have a mystery brn/white and green wire in the mix which I can't identify....The civilian wiring says brn and white it's hot in accy but it's not hot in ACC or RUN.... green says ground but shows no continuity in any position..

Any insight?

 

[m38inmaine]

The starter relay under the dash is activated by the 12v key switch(yellow), the relay then sends 24v(purple) down to the starter solenoid.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

The starter relay under the dash is activated by the 12v key switch(yellow), the relay then sends 24v(purple) down to the starter solenoid.

I know that..

Problem is, I have a meter on the starter output from the SWITCH which is supposed to be 12V (yellow), however that 12V yellow is showing 24V on crank...

 

[sneekyeye]

My question is, Are you getting 12v anywhere on the truck, or just 24v everywhere?

Check to see if the diagrams you are using are the same as the diagrams from the TM
The first one is the starting circuit, the second one is one I made from the two cab circuits. Having one page is easier than flipping back and forth between two. I had to attach it as a PDF because it seemed to become unreadable when put in as a picture.
View attachment starting circuit.pdf

View attachment ignition circuits combined.pdf

This may just further confuse things.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

What's confusing is that there is only a 12V feed to the ignition switch....nowhere to get 24v from...

The only place I have 24V at is where its supposed to be...which makes it that much more confusing.... I'm thinking that relay may be failing or about to fail...but if 24V is somehow backfeeding through the relay then it would stay energized, but it's not.

 

[firefox]

Unplug the relay and see if the 24v is still in the ignition switch.
Then measure the voltages at each of the socket pins.
You should only see 24 volts on one pin and 12volts on another when the ignition is switched to start.
Those relays are crap, so I suspect that you have a short inside the relay.
I would now do the Doghead relay conversion.
Hopefully others will chime in in case I am missing something.