Instructions for spraying CARC all forms

[ida34]

I am getting ready to shoot CARC in the interior of my M1009. I have Sherwin Williams CARC and it is the urethane based one part. It is not the new water borne but is the water cured. It is cured when exposed to moisture in the air. The real early stuff is two part and the waterborne is also two part. The Sherwin Williams data sheet is ok but when it comes to reduction all it said was that it could be reduced if needed. I needed more clarification so after checking I found the following website. It is in the format of a military document and basically gives better real world instructions for shooting all the types of CARC. It also gives a lot of information on priiming different types material in preparation for the top coat of CARC. I hope this helps anyone getting ready to shoot some CARC.

CARC document

 

[Numbers]

I am interested in the Sherman Williams variety and have not seen any pictures of someones finished truck. When you are done spraying please post some pics. Thanks.

 

[Jones]

See if these add any new info for you, Chuck.

 

[LanceRobson]

Call the local store. They can refer you to the nearest "commercial coatings" store where you should get all the info you need.

Lance

 

[ida34]

I have an account with the local store but the above document has a lot more info on surface prep and such. One thing. I am using the Urethane based stuff. Any urethane reducer works and my local paint shot has reducer cheaper than the Shermin Williams store. One item they let me in on. I had know that pumping acetylene, argon, and argon mix into a paint can when you are done will keep it from skinning. It is especially important to use Argon or Argon mix for this with the Urethane Carc. It moisture cures and it grabs it from the atmosphere. If you close the can up it will cure in the can with the available moisture in the can. If you put argon or argon mix in before closing the top it will form a barrier to keep the mosture in the air from curing the rest of the paint.


I am waiting for the first coat to flash and am going to start a second coat. I have a thread going on the floor replacement in my cucv. I will post pics there when I am done. Right now I am just doing the interior and will be doing the exterior in a few months.

 

[Nonotagain]

Let me chime in and state that if you apply CARC too thick in one coat or don't allow enough flash off time between coats, CARC will bubble up like sun burn blisters.

The isocynates in CARC react with moisture and as a by-product create carbon dioxide gas. The coating cures from the outside in and since the outer coating forms a non permeable film it won't allow the Co2 to escape.

When my company sprayed a lot of CARC, 25-30 gallons a day, I had the pressure pots plumbed with Argon to act as a shield gas/propellant for spraying. The side benefit was that you could leave paint in the pot instead of discarding valuable paint. Now all of our spraying is done using Nitrogen that we generate on site.

As long as the urethane thinner you are using is water free you should have no problems.

 

[ida34]

Numbers,
I posted pics in the other thread.

Click here for the thread.

 

[deuceman51]

If anyone needs any CARC, I have 6 gallons for sale.

 

[m16ty]

I am interested in the Sherman Williams variety and have not seen any pictures of someones finished truck. When you are done spraying please post some pics. Thanks.

A freind of mine had some CARC that came straight from the military. It was Sherwin Williams paint so I guess that's what the Military uses. If that's the case you could just look at any truck comming through GL to see what it looks like .

 

[ida34]

I am pretty lucky as the industrial store I get if from keeps a lot in stock. They probably supply TACOM in Warren Michigan. Lots of military manufacturing around this area.

 

[Numbers]

Numbers,
I posted pics in the other thread.

Click here for the thread.

Thanks, those pics remind me of numerous Mustang projects I have worked on. Those floorpans looked like a real bear to get in. Did some really nice work also on filling in and sanding too. What kind of primer did you use? Was it the red zinc primer? and did you have any issues with adhering to the previous CARC coating?

 

[ida34]

I used rattle cans for the primer. I am saving the good stuff for real paint. Carc is very forgiving since it comes out with a sandpaper finish anyway. The good stuff is going to be for my Mustang project. I used big box store sandable primer for the front floor area. I used Rustoleum rusty metal primer for the rear as it had a lot of surface rust. I used rust converter on the rear after I had sanded down what I could. No adhesion problems at all. This stuff sticks real well so far. The test will be when I start taking off the paint masks. When dry it is just like the CARC I remember from my Army days.

 

[Numbers]

Well, that makes my decision on what to get alot easier. Thanks again and let me know what happens when the masks come off.

 

[ida34]

If you have the extra money, there is a two part water borne CARC also. This is what the military currently uses. It is better environmentally and people that have used it say it is easier to use. It is more expensive and this is why I just got the old style solvent borne CARC. There was a thread with someone using waterbone CARC in desert tan. I think it was Bigmike.

Here is the other thread.