I have a M35 a2 and will be doing all my own work what lifting equiptment do you reccomend. I will need to remove wheels and eventually replace clutch.
We use a large heavy duty engine hoist with the boom through the passenger side door and a 1/2 ton chain fall to drop things like the transmission and transfer case.
The military issues 8-ton bottle jacks for an M35A2 and it will do anything you need to do.
In the shop we use a mix of 6-ton and 12-ton jack stands. The 12-ton ones won't go any higher than the 6-ton ones but have a wider footprint so we use them when they won't be in the way. I keep a couple short hunks of 2x10 and 2x12 PT boards in the trucks to block the jack up or keep it from sinking on soft ground.
For field repairs that needed dropping the tranny or T-case we used to loosen the cab canvas, open the window and place a pair or the big prybars from the armored vehicle or wrecker tools accross the cab to hang a block and tackle from. We'd strap the bars to the center windshield post to keep them from moving. The M577 command post carriers had 750 pound tackle for loading and unloading their 4.2kW generators. I don't think I'd trust most 4x4s. They are usually from the center of a tiny yellow pine tree and riddled with knots. Another good support would be to take two 2x6s, sandwich a strip of 1/2 or 3/4" plywood between them, spike it all together and it will support a lot more that you'll need without breaking the bank.
Frankly, if you are on a hard surface even 11.00R20s go on and off easily. There is a fair amount of clearance between the stud diameter and the hole diameter. If you are careful with raising the jack you can center the studs in the holes without actually lifting the wheel and walk it on or off the studs with little effort. It takes more work to line the holes up to put it back on than the actual installation takes.
As far as handling dual tire and wheel assemblies on a hard surface, get a couple of big prybars (4-5' long) raise the axle so that the tire clears the ground by a small fraction of an inch and put the two bars up under the tire so that it extends a few inches past the inner tire. Now pick up on the ends of the two bars. If a helper reaches past you he can easily remove a single or dual tire/wheel assembly. It will slide or walk right out on the bars and due to the leverage you don't need to work too hard to hold them up. Without a helper you can pick the bars up one at a time and put a block under them and then slide the assembly. You only need to get past the treads and then you can roll them.
A while back I stopped at a buddy's shop and he and a helper were struggling with the dual wheel/tire/brake drum from a 5-ton bridge truck. They had put grease on the floor under the tires and were trying to crab the thing on. I grabbed two "tanker's" bars off his wrecker and had the assembly on in less than a minute. Big prybars can be had at industrial tool supply houses for about $20.
We never install or remove heavy parts without two or more people in the shop. It would really suck to have someone pinned down and no around to help.
For breaking bolts and nuts, you may want to get a Swench manual impact wrench. It never needs air or electricity, loosens things a torque multiplying wrench won't and is small enough to keep with the truck. (kind of like the first rule of gunfighting-"First- bring a gun!") A 3/4" Swench us about 20" long and will generate 800 pounds of torque. That's more than enough for anything on a deuce. A 1" Swench puts out !,500 pounds of torque. They pop up on Ebay and at MV shows.
Lance