M-1078 Door Handles/ Interesting Topic?

[MatthewWBailey]

Anyone ever try street rod door poppers? One of my unlock "rods" just snapped. Getting real tired of fiddling with these janky door handles

 

[Keith Knight]

I installed a kit like this from amazon 5 ears ago and it’s still working. I use it at least 5 times a day. While we are traveling.

 

[Lugnuts]

Anyone ever try street rod door poppers? One of my unlock "rods" just snapped. Getting real tired of fiddling with these janky door handles

It's a thought! If you decide to do that it would be a wonderful thing if you reported back.

 

[MatthewWBailey]

It's a thought! If you decide to do that it would be a wonderful thing if you reported back.

Will do. I'm looking at a wireless AutoLoc product that has a spring loaded popper and 35lb solenoid to operate the latch. It's meant for "shaved" door handles common on street rods, etc. I've spent many hours trying to get these janky S&S handles to work reliably and it's a losing battle.

 

[Ronmar]

Will do. I'm looking at a wireless AutoLoc product that has a spring loaded popper and 35lb solenoid to operate the latch. It's meant for "shaved" door handles common on street rods, etc. I've spent many hours trying to get these janky S&S handles to work reliably and it's a losing battle.

I contemplated the same thing until i realized the toyota handles would fit. if you do it, I would suggest you leave access to the wires directly to bypass the controller and power the releases directly if the controller quits...

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Will do. I'm looking at a wireless AutoLoc product that has a spring loaded popper and 35lb solenoid to operate the latch. It's meant for "shaved" door handles common on street rods, etc. I've spent many hours trying to get these janky S&S handles to work reliably and it's a losing battle.

The A1R paddle handles are *just* enough better that they don't entirely annoy me. What I have found through mostly error is that the handle itself isn't really the issue. You need new inner and outer latch mechanisms and NOT the Chinese copies everyone is selling. You want the original MAN/Steyr parts. Once those are replaced and properly lubed and the rods are secured with the metal rod clips (Dorman assortment of rod end clips) - I really don't have problems. The latches need to operate VERY smoothly and easily and without too much pressure on the door from the weatherstripping, or too much friction from any of the components or you break the handles or bend the rods or pop the plastic clips - I've even broken the metal Dorman clips.

Once it's ALL replaced and lubed - they work fine. Most people are just replacing the handle and wondering why it keeps breaking - it's because the handle wasn't designed for ALL the other major system components to be CLAPPED and full of dirt, sand, and rust and have literal metal dust for lube.

I AM seriously considering the $25 keyless system though and I appreciate the review. Have had similar results from one of the $80 power window kits. Been daily driving and using them for 2 years and if they both gave out tomorrow I would just buy another kit for the price. It's so cheap it's not even annoying that it's kinda sorta crappy and for sure won't go the distance but if I get 3-5 years I REALLY don't care to mess with it....... of course I can't leave anything alone and do have another idea for those that may be a lifetime fix.

Mostly I would do the keyless IN CASE I somehow lose both external handle functions because with the HIMARS commanders hatch I'm absolutely NOT going in through the turret cover to gain access. The lock poppers would give me two more ways to gain access and having 4-way redundancy (two paddle handles and two lock actuators) ought to be sufficient to ensure I never am locked out to the point I have to try to push the interior door handles up from the drain holes in the floor........