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M1 Searchlight Trailer, G221, info and restoration to 'usable'

tennmogger

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tennmogger

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Some of the notable shortcomings are: The upper structure around the top of the side fenders has been torched off. The front wall of the trailer is cut out. The winch assembly is missing. 3 of the 4 stabilizer feet are torched out leaving one on the left front, but the screw assembly was cut off the top of that stabilizer flush with the top of the fender. The tailgate and ramp is missing.

This trailer has three storage compartments. Someone in another thread had commented that some G221 trailers have 4 compartments and some have 2, so having 3 is also an option.

The bed tilt feature is still functional and will be used for loading stuff. Just pull two pins and the trailer supposedly tilts. I say supposedly because I pulled the pins and drove my small tractor into the bed but it did not tilt. I had to put a jack under the front to tilt the whole trailer, wheels, axles and all. Looking at the physics of those axles, a lot of weight is going to be needed to tilt the trailer.

This brings up an interesting question: How was tilting intended to be accomplished? There is no way the spotlight on it's wheels weighed enough to cause a tilt. Were the front stabilizers cranked down to tilt the trailer? Were the brakes locked and the towing truck backed up to force a tilt? Don't know, and there is no manual I can find.

Who knows how the tilt is accomplished as originally intended? Does anyone have a manual for the M1 variant of the G221?
 

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tennmogger

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One of the first chores was to move the lunette assembly up to the top holes so it would fit the LMTV. However, those 1" bolts were completely rusted in. One came loose with impact. But no amount of heating beating or twisting (1' impact!) would free the worst one, actually twisting off the head. So the pin was Sawzalled along the edge of each side of the hitch. My little 5 ton press would not push that. A local machine shop was willing to try, and gave up at 60,000 pounds force. "It's not coming out". Had to drill out that pin then heat the remaining parts to burn them out, with no damage to the lunette assembly. So now the hitch works great!
 

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waayfast

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Hello,
I too have a trailer of this style I bought years ago to go with my M7 Gen Set. Originally thought this was an M7 but after looking close over the years, I don't think this is.
Have yet to decide which model this one is. My hitch frame is hinged to facilitate the tilt mode and does not match the photo of the M7 in the book.
Does not have nor does it have any indication of the structure of the Director trailer style. Has the verticle shaft with the small wheel on top the tongue like yours, but the wheel is broke --just the center is still there. Does look like there was a place for the winch on the "deck" in the front.
All of the corner jacks are missing but there are plenty of clues left that tell me it was equipped with them. This has been beat up pretty good over the years, a contractor had it to move a Skid Steer around with it and was NOT gentle.
Look mostly like an M18, but still not everything matches.
I have a copy of TM9-881. It is dated 22 DEC 1944. It actually does not show any listing or info for a M1 .

Mine is still buried under three feet of snow so can't get pics right now, but hey it's the same shade of yellow!

Good luck with yours,
Jim
 

tennmogger

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Waafast, your trailer looks a lot like mine, Yours has some decking added to cover 3/4 of the bed but mine doesn't. But look at the right rear quarter of your bed and the 'torch cut' along the gap, mine is exactly the same. The humps that run the length of the beds on the M1, may have been to guide the searchlight wheels, are cut off. That gives a flat bed more useful for general hauling.

Looking forward to more pictures. Thanks.
 

tennmogger

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The more I learn about this trailer the more interesting it gets. Like the suspension, a walking beam, but with no axle crossing from left to right so the bed can be very low and there is nothing to 'hit' underneath.

A wheel was taken off today and some cleaning done. It's obvious why the trailer was not tilting, the walking beam was stuck in place and not tilting. That's why the front tires were lifting off the ground when the tongue was lifted. Got the beams loose and did some further cleaning and spraying penetrant. Hope they show up ok. (Still learning)Center pivot and rear wheel beam.JPG

Here is a picture of the suspension, and another with the action of the beam indicated.Center pivot and rear wheel beam marked.jpg
 

tennmogger

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The center pivot is mounted on a heavy block that moves up and down within the limits of the frame around it. That provides the spring suspension for the trailer. The ends of the beam are retained by heavy guides, lots of grease required! Now I know what the holes in the sides of the bed are for. The grease Zerks lube the middle and ends of the walking beam.
 

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Kirk Skaggs

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Here is the spring suspension sliding block. There's probably a proper name for it.
View attachment 792629L

Lots of grease required on these trailers.
Tennmogger, I can probably answer all of the questions you have for the M1 Searchlight Trailer and the Searchlights and supporting equipment.
As for your first question about how the tilt works. The swing down support wheel that should be mounted to the tounge on the trailer is missing, but that would be used as the fulcrum to pivot the trailer after disconnecting it from the truck and pulling the two pins. Two men would then push down on the lunette ring all the way to the ground, which would pivot around the support gear and force the trailer to tilt back. The ramp would then be lowered and the light readied for removal, being let down by the hand winch after removing the four tiedown turnbuckles at each corner of the light, which is what the two openings are for left and right of center on the front bulkhead.

Kirk Skaggs
 

tennmogger

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Hello Kirk, Thanks for the description of how the trailer tilts. Your trailer at least still has the tailgate and upper structure around the fenders so you have more to work with. The picture of the tailgate gives me something to go by to fabricate the new tailgate-ramp combination.

So the trailer should tilt quite easily then? If the 'ballast' of two guys pushing down on the tongue can do it, then my trailer is still not tilting freely. With more grease and a few load-unload cycles of my small tractor, maybe that 'walking beam' between the wheels will loosen up.

I will be towing the M1 with an LMTV which just happens to have a spare hydraulic circuit, the one normally used to pull down the front suspension. I plan to add a small diameter hydraulic cylinder of appropriate length to actuate the tilt function of the trailer. That will be plumbed with some skinny hoses to a pair of quick connects on the rear of the LMTV. I don't want to have to disconnect the lunette to tilt the trailer.

Is that manual available in a scanned version? Instant gratification sort of thing ;-) I have a copy of the manual on order from Belgium.

Bob
 
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tennmogger

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Kirk, I received my TM5-7044 manual today, hard copy from Belgium. Great reading. I can read all about how the M1 trailer is made and operated. Thanks for the reference.
 

tennmogger

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Does anyone have experience restoring a data plate like this? It can be read but with difficulty. Any background coloration is gone and the relief is so low I can't see a way to re-color it for readability.

Thanks
 

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Kirk Skaggs

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Does anyone have experience restoring a data plate like this? It can be read but with difficulty. Any background coloration is gone and the relief is so low I can't see a way to re-color it for readability.

Thanks
I have scanned them and created a digital reproduction in Corel that is then turned into a silk screen.
Sometime you have to prime or ink wipe them to highlight the relief before scanning to make them more visable.
Once you have the screen you use it to re-ink the plate.
Not quick by any means but produces like new results.

Kirk
 

SCSG-G4

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Does anyone have experience restoring a data plate like this? It can be read but with difficulty. Any background coloration is gone and the relief is so low I can't see a way to re-color it for readability.

Thanks
We did some DUKW ones (they were brass) by spray painting the whole thing with black paint, then using 600 grit sand paper to lightly touch where the lettering was to remove the dried paint. You need to do a little part at a time or you will need to repaint some of the background. Once done a clear lacquer coat should be applied.
 
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