M1000 No Start AGAIN!!

[BigB84]

Alright! Two weeks ago, I changed the shut-off solenoid on my injection pump. She started up first time, every time for about two weeks. Now she is struggleing.
She turns over plenty but will not start. I have noticed that when I turn the ignition for the glow plugs to warm I no longer her the two clicks/thumps coming from under the dash. Now I hear seven clicks/thump that occuer in sequence however much closer together than before. With the hood open, the clicks/thumps seem to come from behind the master cylinder. I tried all afternoon, attempting starts, chargeing the batteries and checking for air in the lines.

Any ideas ????

 

[73m819]

i see your out of maurice, i work for a company thats in duson(blr stallion)

 

[acetomatoco]

So what is your voltmeter doing? What is your wait light doing? Sounds like your glow plug relay has dumped... Do you have the original black plastic one or the replacement shiny can?... See the 500 diagnostic posts in the archives and see troubleshooting glow plugs in your TMs... Gummint has a nice list of things to check...

 

[BigB84]

73m819: Duson is about 20min from my house. Not much going on in Duson!
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acetomatoco: I really not notice anything from my voltmeter. My wait light does not come on at all. Where do I look for the gp relay? I have been reading multiple post on starting issues, and have noticed that I do have a fuel leak from one of the lines to the fuel pump, not sure if this could be part of the issue. I have ordered a set of TM on ebay and are currently awaiting there arrival. If it is the gp relay, where can I purchase a replacement.

 

[mangus580]

TMs can be found here on the site. PDF format....

If your wait light is not coming on, start with the basics. Check your fuses. If all the fuses are good, your GP card has probably failed...

 

[CCATLETT1984]

once you check your fuses, search for "manual glow plugs" you can very easily wire in push botton switch if the controller is bad.

 

[BigB84]

Sorry guys, I've been out of town for a few days. Here's where I stand:\
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-I cannot view the TM's as my computer freezes up every time I try to open them from this pate
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-I checked all the fuses on the fuse block under the dash, all appear in working order w/ none burnt or cracked
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-I had my wife turn the key on and off for me to chase down the different clicking noise. Found two items under the dash that are not mounted to any thing, however the noise doesn't appear to be coming from either of those.
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-On the fire wall in the engine bay near the master cylinder, that's where I found the item makeing the noise, I clicks 7 times when you turn the key then clicks a coulple more times when your trying to crank the truck: Here are all the pics
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Any advice ? Please!

 

[acetomatoco]

The bug tin can by the MC should click on and stay on for 10 secs or so when your engine is cold and you turn on the key.. that is your glow plug relay.. it is the new style... it should not rapid click..so either your card or your heat sensor switch... on the back of the intake manifold is probably puked.

 

[mangus580]

I cannot view the TM's as my computer freezes up every time I try to open them from this pate

Try right clicking and doing a 'save as' on the file. Some people have that problem, and this works.

On the fire wall in the engine bay near the master cylinder, that's where I found the item makeing the noise, I clicks 7 times when you turn the key then clicks a coulple more times when your trying to crank the truck

When you say it clicks 7 times... is it rapid? or do you mean over time? The function of it, is to click on for 10-30 seconds then off for a about another 30-60, then back on again. It will run this cycle up to a certain point, or until the engine warms up enough.

Like Ace stated, if its doing it quite rapid, you have a problem. It is possible that the relay is failing, and cant hold the contacts together. Get a volt meter, set it on VDC. Measure the voltage between the 2 little terminals on the relay. See if the voltage cuts in and out along with the clicks. If it stays steady, I would replace the relay. Any major auto parts will have one, just make sure they provide you one that has all 4 terminals 'isolated' from each other. Simple way to find out, is to set your meter on ohms, and make sure there is no connection between any of the 4 terminals.

If the relay isnt the problem, I would suspect the card next. www.flmv.net had them last I knew.


If in the end, your relay is cycling like it should... well its time for new glow plugs, and to maybe find out what killed the old ones...


Report back and let us know!

 

[BKinzey]

While you have your voltmeter out check your glowplugs as well.

 

[BigB84]

The clicking from the relay is fairly rapid, maybe 4-5 sec between clicks.

 

[ida34]

Check to see that the glow plug relay is sending juice to the glow plugs. One side of the big shinny relay near the master cylinder should have power going in and the other should only be on when the key is first turned on. If it is not working then work back toward the controller card. If is in the box in one of your picutures hanging down near the brake pedal. If sounds like you glow plug relay is fried and is trying to make contact but is just clicking.

 

[BigB84]

Cool, Thanks guys, following whats going on, I think I gonna try the relay first. I'll take a trip to napa tommorrow.

 

[BigB84]

Alright: had a chance to change the relay today, found a bosh-warner unit at O'rielly Auto Parts for $22. Now the wait light comes on and the clicking noise is not as pronounced, however it still clicks seven times w/ 3-4 sec between clicks, and the truck doesn't start. Should I look at the temp sensor next or the card.

 

[crusty]

If your voltmeter doesn't show a voltage drop when the relay clicks, the glow plugs are probably bad. The controller cycles the plugs after the engine starts as well as before and the engine should be idled until the post-glow period is over to avoid over heating the glow plugs. The newer dual coil glow plugs seem to last longer.

 

[BigB84]

Well, I did have a desil leak. My brother, who works as a desil mechanic for catapillar, helped w/ some trouble shooting. We found the desil leak from the weep hole on the lift pump. With a bad lift pump we thought that the engine wasn't getting enought fuel to fire on first crank. Today we changed the lift pump and rubber lines. Se ran for a while after we bled all the lines and injectors. Unfortunately, when she's cold she still does not want to start. Now I know, as I have been advised of many times that either is not the way to go. However, after about an hour of dx, hit the air filter with a very small amount of either and she started right away. The average temp during the day around here has been well into the 80's approaching the 90's. I know these engines are cold natured but am haveing some doubts about how much the glow plugs would be needed to crank. I am considereing changeing them anyway.

 

[mangus580]

Glow plugs are needed at almost every temp if it hasnt been running.

Search by my name, and 'glow plugs' and You will find tons of info for troubleshooting the system....

 

[BigB84]

Just wanted to say thanks for all y'all help! I changed my glow plugs today, and she started right up first crank. I could only get 7 of the 8 out, and a few of those were pretty swollen. All they had had at the local parts store were bosh plugs, but they seem to work so far. As the day progressed ( I drove all over the place now that she was finally running) it would take a little longer to crank but wold start first time.

 

[CCATLETT1984]

you need to get that other plug out if possible, there is a glowplug removal tool that will get it out almost for sure.
http://jjandaracing.com/en-us/dept_9.html

 

[Michael]

Just for the record, what plug did you pull out? Were they AC 13?