Does someone have a picture they can put up showing how they securely mounted a normal battery to the M1008 battery trays? I've got the original tie downs, but I can't seem to figure out how to make it work. For one thing, the battery is short relative to the mounting hardware. The studs run out of thread before the battery can be tightened down, and the extra supports on the fender are quite a bit too high. It also seems like the battery is wobbly against the tray for some reason, like the tray is not really flat and the battery is straddling a ridge or something. I've resorted to bungee cords for now, but I'd really prefer to have something more stable. My best idea right now is to cut some pieces of plywood the size of the tray to raise the battery up to where it needs to be. If someone has a better idea though, I'd love to hear it.
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
M1008 battery tie downs
- Thread starter Sam27
- Start date
- 5,261
- 3,985
- 113
- Location
- Charleston, WV
[No message]
- 5,261
- 3,985
- 113
- Location
- Charleston, WV
[No message]
- 5,261
- 3,985
- 113
- Location
- Charleston, WV
[No message]
- 5,261
- 3,985
- 113
- Location
- Charleston, WV
[No message]
- 5,261
- 3,985
- 113
- Location
- Charleston, WV
[No message]
CUCV IRL
New member
- 29
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Birr, Co. Offaly, Ireland.
[No message]
- 5,261
- 3,985
- 113
- Location
- Charleston, WV
[No message]
This is kind of a tangent, but the thread is old anyway... It kind of looks like the CUCV passenger side inner fender has some extra bracing compared to a normal civilian version. Has anyone ever replaced the CUCV ones with standard replacements? I need to, but I'm afraid the batteries will weigh on it too much without reinforcement. I'd also be curious if the civilian inners have dimples in the spots where holes are needed for the mil battery trays. I can figure it out eventually without them, but it would sure make the job easier.
85-m1028
New member
- 282
- 1
- 0
- Location
- costa mesa ca.
I think the civy's actually have one tray on the pass and one on the driver side, I took the support wire that bolts to the top tray holder (closest to the cab) and bent it down and took some threaded rod and made shorter rods to bolt the cucv tray top back on, the front batt I used the same threaded rod to make put cucv top on but I still need to make the connection to the fender, a couple of peices of flat bar bent to fit drill some new holes in the cucv top part and bolt the flat bars to the top and to the old fender mounts!!
85-m1028
New member
- 282
- 1
- 0
- Location
- costa mesa ca.
heres some pics I finished the front batt, I had some old shelf brackets sittin around so I just bent them up in the vice screwed em down holes already drilled!!, I grabbed each batt with both hands and gave it a couple of hefty tugs and they didn't budge. The only concern I have is the batt with the straps may have a little front to back play so I'll add another strap to the front :burger:
Looks good. I'm actually asking about the wheel wells though. My batt trays are fine. I want to know if a civvy wheel well is stout enough to hold the batteries in the CUCV configuration. I'd also be interested to know if civvy wheel wells have the dimples in the location of the CUCV battery mounts.
85-m1028
New member
- 282
- 1
- 0
- Location
- costa mesa ca.
everything on the fenderwell is the same yes, but the bracing is not included, it's important to attach the upper part of the batt holder to the side of the fender because the weight of the batt being thrown around is a bit much for the trays them selves to handle.
Only the mil tie downs even have that option. I think they really did that because the mil batteries are gigantic. I suppose a person could rig up some way to brace the trays to the fender without the mil tie downs, but it'd be a little work.
I have a K5 blazer in addition to the CUCV and the CUCV wheel wells appear to have extra bracing on the bottom side.
I have a K5 blazer in addition to the CUCV and the CUCV wheel wells appear to have extra bracing on the bottom side.
85-m1028 said:
- 5,261
- 3,985
- 113
- Location
- Charleston, WV
When I replaced my M1009's inner fender on the right side, I torched the bracing off of the old one, cleaned it up, and plug welded it to the new one. It worked like a charm.
![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]"){kind=icon}
- 5,261
- 3,985
- 113
- Location
- Charleston, WV
Heck yeah, a grinder will do the trick. Not as much fun as blowing holes in stuff with the gas axe, but it will work fine[^] Congrats on the welder. I have a Lincoln buzz-box and the oxy-acetylene set-up, but I have to borrow my bro-in-law's MIG for body work. I'll be getting my very own Millermatic 210 setup in a week or so though. I'll be ready for some serious fab-work then!