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M1008 fuel tank sender unit question?

ssgtwright-usmc

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OK, went by the transmission shop and they did take a look and said that my gears sounded great but then it might be a transmission valve or some other minor gadget within the transmission.
Then they said I may have a bad cat-convertor!!!!
Yes, They actually said that and I know not of 1 M1008 having a cat-convertor. I kinda lost my faith in this transmission shop but then it was a free visit.
My question is this now, my transmission is still slipping gears when increasing speed.
Could another problem be that I have a bad or clogged filter in the fuel sending unit?
Im just thinking that if you increase speed more fuel you will need and if so, if the engine isnt getting the fuel it needs to increase speed then the tranny wont shift into next gear until the right speed has been reached.
Just thinking that I have changed all filters on the engine, vac lines, fuel lines and ect and the only thing I have yet to change is the fuel sender unit.
Does this make sense about maybe its the fuel sending unit/filter screen being clogged and the fuel tank having old goo and sludge in it.
Any ideas, I am open to hearing all ideas and suggestions.
 

CCATLETT1984

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your truck does not have a cat, no diesel of that era did.

slipping gears in the trans will have nothing to do with the engine. having a clogged filter sock in the tank would starve the engine for fuel at higher rpm's wouldn't affect the shifting of the transmission though.
 

ssgtwright-usmc

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That was what I was thinking. When the transmission shop said clogged cat-convertor or obstruction in the exhaust pipe I thought ( My God, what people am I having to check out my transmission)!
When they said that is when I thought about a dirty or clogged sock in the fuel sending unit.
The only other transmission place is AAMCO and that is located on the other side of the Island that I live on.
 

CCATLETT1984

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I would call them up, tell them you have a th400 transmission and describe the slipping and shifting issues you are having, ask them what they think you should do. They should tell you it needs to have the pan and vavlebody dropped to inspect the internals. If you have the trans rebuilt they should tell you to either get a new torque convertor or that they will flush out your existing one.
 

ssgtwright-usmc

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I will do that in the morning. Makes me wonder if the place I did bring it to even looked at the transmission from underneith the vehicle. If so, I think they would have seen that I do not have a cat-convertor on this vehicle, only thing I do have is dual exhaust.
 

K9Unit

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Okay, I'll try to be as straight fwd as possible without insulting anyone because God knows I dont know everything... If you took it to a shop and they checked your " transmission Gears" and then said they are just fine without having to remove the tranny and disassemble 3/4 of it to get to the rear sprag unit and rear clutch basket then you need to take it to another shop. To the best of my knowledge as of today there are no ways to check the gears without disassembling it and besides the gears have nothing to do the the transmission slipping, if thats what it is doing. The only thing the gears do in the transmission is to give you your gear reduction manually if down shifted in 1st or automatically if left in drive. Just about all gear drives in rear applications are just a planetary gear and a sun gear. Depending on what transmission it is this is done by clutchs or a band. High pressure fluid is forced through the middle of the main shaft through your valve body and then out a small hole in the rear clutch pack, the pressure of this fluid is what compresses all the clutches together and now your planetaries will turn on the inside of your ring gear creating a gear reduction, some units will use a band around the clutch basket and when pressure is applied to the outside of the pin it compresses the band around the clutch basket holding it in place while the sun gear or plantaries turn... either way, if the gears dont engage then its either 1 low fluid pressure getting to the band or clutches to engage the unit, or your clutches are burned out or the band. If you took it to the tranny shop and they said everything checks out ok but your converter, obviously the diesel doesn't have one and they were exempt from emissions then they dont have a clue. Simply put the gearsdont have anything to do with your tranny slipping if they told you this I would let them even sit in my truck. Ammco is usually a reputable shop, and everyone I have heard of gives you a warranty on rebuilds as long as you take it back to them, I believe they may be a little high. If you dont go with them, find a reputable shop that has a ASE transmission tech. If they dont I would let them touch it, transmission have alot of little parts inside but any monkey can put all the parts back in and bolt it together. Another could sign to look for is any shop that that is a member of the ATSG group. I belonged to them for yrs and just about any transmission rebuilder tell you its a must to join if your in that business just like joining here if you have a MV vehicle. A good shop will plave your vehicle on the lift remove the vacume module install a adjustable vacuum pump with gauge, remove both trasmission lines and install 2 T fittings with gauges to check the pressure going to the transmission and then back out of it. That will pretty much let them know if its a external problem or internal. The flat rate book pays 8 hrs to remove your TH400 tear it down , clean everything and rebuild it, and reinstall. I dont know anyone that will remove it start to tear it down and only replace a few parts that are messed up and then put it back together. I would pretty much say Ammco is a rept. shop, they are everywhere, I believe all there Techs. are ASE certified and I know they belong to ATSG, I have had customers in the past I had to redo thier transmissions and they were previously rebuilt from Ammco.. All outlasted thier warranty and the only causes I found they needed to be rebuilt was from the owner modifying there truck and not hooking stuff back up, people forging through water and thinking thier tranny was 100% water proof, ect. all some type of driver error. I will tell you if you go with them and they give you thier warranty, just make sure how many months and mileage, its in writing, signed and keep track of the records yourself, keep the documentation, also some places require you to take your tansmission back to them for service, if you do it yourself its void, just check all that stuff out. I believe every center will check your transmission out for you, they wont charge you the rebuild price for just having it checked.... and last but not least, They hate this when you ask for it but they can't refuse it. If it needs to be rebuilt, after you have agreed on a price tell them any part that is replaced you want the old part saved and given to you !! Nothing like someone charging you 1000.00 worth of parts and they only give you 500.00 worth back, it almost forces any place to be honest with what they remove and replace, if not then they are going to have to spend alot of extra time damaging parts that were good to begine with. Keep me posted with what happens !
 

ssgtwright-usmc

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Its a TH400. They said it also could be a trans filter, some valve inside the transmission, bands and even the govenor.
I think all they did was take it out for a test drive because they even had my air filter taken out and placed on the drivers seat.
I dont think they even did a vacuum test on it. Maybe thats why they didnt charge me anything after leaving my truck their all day long.
Will keep this site posted of everything I do find out what was wrong and what the fix was.
 

K9Unit

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CCATLETT1984

10-4, I had no idea I just pretty much wrote a whole rebuild section, It doesn't

seem like your typing that much in the little reply box until you post it and then

BAM !! :shock: Your post just took up 3 pages. I think I put enough up where I can rest

for a few weeks now !! :D
 

dependable

Well-known member
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Tisbury, Massachusetts
I've had similar tranny symtoms.. The first thing I would do is drop pan and change filter. Also clean off magnet inside. If you take it to a shop, go to one that can do a transmission flush, as drainiing does not clean out fluid from torque converter.This ofter does it. A lot of these trucks have "sitting disease" and should have all fluids, filters and as many seals as you can replaced. It is not out of line to replace fluids and filters multtple times between runnings up to tenp, to clean all the gunk that has condensed with water over the years.
Also check modulator hook up and connections. This is standard TH 400 stuff you can find in a haynes (or better) GM shop manual.
 

ssgtwright-usmc

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Hawaii
Changed the filter out today with new gaskets and yes, new fluid also.
The magnet did not even look like a magnet, looked more like a mess of black oilly goo like used motor oil all in that one spot.
Cleaned the pan out and actually found out their was a magnet under all that goo.
Question, when I was taking the old filter out it was held in place by one bolt and a spacer and the bolt seemed to be about 1/2" longer because the filter and the spacer never even got close to being flush with the filter/transmission.
The filter kind of hangs their.
Could it be that this is not the right bolt or is it supposed to be this way.
I dont see the need for a spacer sleeve on the bolt if it doesnt get the filter/transmission to be flush.
I mean, its like the bolt is 1/2 " longer so the spacer sleeve does not become flush between the filter and the transmission.
Any thought on this??????
 

ssgtwright-usmc

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Hawaii
OK, I have heard that a blocked or restricted return fuel lines may cause some of the symptoms of me having a bad tranny.
Where should I trace the return fuel line from by starting from the engine compartment.
Also, what size rubber hose should I get since I will be replacing those hoses whenever I do get to change out my fuel sending unit.
 

Stihl029

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Kodiak, AK
Changed the filter out today with new gaskets and yes, new fluid also.
The magnet did not even look like a magnet, looked more like a mess of black oilly goo like used motor oil all in that one spot.
Cleaned the pan out and actually found out their was a magnet under all that goo.
Question, when I was taking the old filter out it was held in place by one bolt and a spacer and the bolt seemed to be about 1/2" longer because the filter and the spacer never even got close to being flush with the filter/transmission.
The filter kind of hangs their.
Could it be that this is not the right bolt or is it supposed to be this way.
I dont see the need for a spacer sleeve on the bolt if it doesnt get the filter/transmission to be flush.
I mean, its like the bolt is 1/2 " longer so the spacer sleeve does not become flush between the filter and the transmission.
Any thought on this??????

I just changed my filter on friday and noticed the bolt issue as well. I was thinking that I had a more serious problem. since the magnet was broken and laying in the bottom of the pan. I thought that it was maybe supposed to be above the filter. I have no clue though so I ran a search and this is the one of two threads that mentioned it. I still have no clue why the extra spacing.
 
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