M1008, I think?

[fireman5214]

Hello all,

I am a new member and just found this site while looking for an exploded parts diagram for our newly acquired (I believe too be M1008 but unsure) at our volunteer fire company. I have attached pictures of the truck. I was looking for an exploded parts diagram because the shop that repainted it said that it is governed to do about 35mph and they were not sure if you could change that so I was looking to see where it could be and how hard it would be to do.

Another reason is because the radiator is leaking and we will need to see how to change it and where to get one at a pretty good price and whether you can get them new or if they are all used. Being that we are a volunteer department, our budget is tight.

The truck was given to us by the PA DCNR Forestry service to use on wildland fires. As you can see by the pictures we already have an M35A2 that we got from the PA DCNR as well. I also read that the exterior of the pickup runs on 24v but the interior is 12v... can anyone confirm that because we were thinking of putting a 12v alternator on it for emergency lighting, scene lights etc.

Thank-you for any help in advance.

 

[Evil Dr. Porkchop]

That's an m1028. Same as an m1008 but a little better (limited slip front axle and helper springs in the back).
The truck is a mix of 12v and 24 volt (mostly 12). The truck should have 2 12 volt alternators and the exterior lights are 12 volt (along with almost everything else). The starter will be 24v unless it's been messed with.
If you're running lights make sure to wire them to 12v and not to the 24v side.
The technical manuals that have the parts diagrams are here on the site, under the Technical Manuals header at the top. You'll want to find the CUCV book number ending in 34p which will have all the parts diagrams.

 

[fireman5214]

That's an m1028. Same as an m1008 but a little better (limited slip front axle and helper springs in the back).
The truck is a mix of 12v and 24 volt (mostly 12). The truck should have 2 12 volt alternators and the exterior lights are 12 volt (along with almost everything else). The starter will be 24v unless it's been messed with.
If you're running lights make sure to wire them to 12v and not to the 24v side.
The technical manuals that have the parts diagrams are here on the site, under the Technical Manuals header at the top. You'll want to find the CUCV book number ending in 34p which will have all the parts diagrams.

Thank-you so much for your help!

 

[firefox]

I don't believe That it is governed to run only 34mph. Do some research on this site first before attempting to make any modifications. I am sure the folks here can steer you in the right direction.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

There's no such governor unless somebody added one later. Uncle Sam sure didn't ask for one. People run these things at 55 all the time, and some run them faster.

The TMs are free to download, and are a wealth of information. They were written so that an 18 year old kid with no experience could follow along and troubleshoot, then repair just about anything.

Be aware that there are various "levels" of TMs, to go along with the levels of maintenance that the military uses. The first level is the operator, who is expected to to basic things like checking fluids and doing oil changes. Next would be the company mechanics, who will do (IIRC) things that most local auto shops will do. They won't rebuild engines or transmissions or the like, but they will pull them and ship them to the next level up. That's the general idea, anyway. So you'll see there's a -10, -20, and -34.

Also important are the parts TMs, which add a P to the title. And don't forget the LO (Lubrication Order) which tells you what to use, and how much.

Be aware that these machines were spec'd to use synthetic brake fluid, and that can't be mixed with regular brake fluid. Many a truck has been messed up by someone putting the wrong stuff in.

Last but not least, pay attention to the "Helpful Threads" sticky. There is a ton of good info there.

Welcome aboard!


EDIT TO ADD: I just noticed you asked about radiators. This vehicle is a 1984 Chevy K30, with a few minor military wrinkles, notably the 24/12v system. Parts are readily available from any standard parts house. Yeah, it's just a civilian Chevy with a few military doo-dads. By the way, it doesn't matter what year it was built, the Army wanted parts standardized, so they all use '84 parts. Yes, you can literally get a radiator at Autozone, NAPA, wherever. Lots of debate about which is the best one, of course!

As for adding an alternator to run some 12v accessories, no need. It's got two, each of which is an ordinary 12v alternator (almost). The driver's side has an isolated ground, and feeds the rear battery @ 24v wrt ground. The passenger side is identical, but that's to streamline the supply chain. It does not NEED to be isolated ground. It is, but again, that is ONLY to streamline the supply chain. They are both Delco 27 SI alternators, with the minor wrinkle of a few extra isolators for the ground. If you think you need a bigger alternator for your toys, it's no big deal to install something on the passenger side.

Some people convert the system to 12v, and there is a 'standard' write up on doing that. Search here for the Roscommon method. I'm kind of thinking you want to keep it 24v, though, since you have the Deuce. You can jump start one truck from the other via a standard NATO slave cable (which is the whole reason for the 24/12v system in the first place).

 

[nyoffroad]

Please do your research and ASK questions before doing any "improvements" such as converting it to 12 volts! Lots of guys have gotten hacked up trucks that the town mechanics didn't understand and butchered. Thats a good looking truck and will serve you well for years as is.

 

[Evil Dr. Porkchop]

As for adding an alternator to run some 12v accessories, no need. It's got two, each of which is an ordinary 12v alternator (almost). The driver's side has an isolated ground, and feeds the rear battery @ 24v wrt ground. The passenger side is identical, but that's to streamline the supply chain. It does not NEED to be isolated ground. It is, but again, that is ONLY to streamline the supply chain. They are both Delco 27 SI alternators, with the minor wrinkle of a few extra isolators for the ground. If you think you need a bigger alternator for your toys, it's no big deal to install something on the passenger side.

MarcusOreallyus' post is on the right track but pretty much all reversed from what is on the truck.
The driver's side does not need to be isolated ground as it's the 12v side and powers the front battery.
The passenger NEEDS to be isolated ground, as that is the "24 volt" side, and that one feeds the rear battery.
Things will get exciting and expensive if a regular alternator is installed on the passenger side in place of the isolated ground alternator.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Oh yeah, my bad.

 

[fireman5214]

Its ok Marcus, we all make mistakes once in a while. Dr. Porkchop, thank-you for clearing up the battery information. My offroad, thank-you and that is why I questioned it first.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

The worst of it is that I have here a correct diagram I made to help someone else a few years ago!

(Note that the diagram does NOT show the glow plug circuit.)

 

[Terracoma]

If you can take and post a photo showing an overview of the engine compartment (and perhaps a few separate photos of the batteries and all the cabling and wires), the crowd here should be able to help you identify if the truck's wiring is still "stock" (as the military intended)...or if it's been modified.

Marcus has you on the right track for replacement parts: the truck is essentially a civilian 1983/1984 Chevrolet K30 chassis with some military-specific additions.