M1009 CUCV Won't Start

[biggold]

I am hoping someone has an idea here. Drove my truck on a 150 mile run the other day and ran great. Went to start a few days later and the batteries were dead at least one was . The other had some juice in it still. Anyway I charged the dead one and after just a bit I cranked it and it started right up - for about 5 seconds and then died. So looked like the one battery was bad as it really wouldn't take a good charge. So, put in new battery today, cranks over good but no start. There is power to the fuel shutoff solenoid (red wire?) at injection pump.Could something have burned out in it? I have never messed with them. I did try a little WD40 but not much effect. Appreciate any help!

 

[burbn10]

It's possible that the solenoid is bad, but I'd check a few other things first. Check to make sure you don't have air in the fuel system by bleeding the fuel filter. From there I would check your glow plugs wires to make sure they are getting power from the relay. (Not sure what weather you are dealing with.)

 

[notsosanestan]

if u need a solenoid i have one with the install kit.How fast is it cranking over? mine did the same thing and the starter was bad.

 

[biggold]

Will check fuel filter. As far as cranking it seems to be fine. As mentioned it started once but after running a few moments it died like the key was shut off. Wouldn't think it would be glow plugs as it did start. It is in the 80's here too right now or was that day.

 

[burbn10]

Hmmm.... If it isn't airlock in the fuel line, it might just be the solenoid. If that isn't it, check lift pump operation. Hopefully it is just an air bubble in the fuel line. These motors are pretty simple, so there isn't much to go wrong with them. Did you check voltage with a test light or with a meter? If you haven't checked the voltage with a meter yet, it should be around 12 volts to the lead on the solenoid. It is a pink wire if I remember correctly. Also, did you check your fuses?

 

[biggold]

OK just got in from checking stuff. I haven't checked voltage at the fuel solenoid but it has power and with the key on I can unplug it and hear the thing clunking in and out as I connect and unconnect the wire. I found a crimped fuel line coming off the filter so replaced it and tightened the other clamps. There was fuel in the filter but doesn't seem to be any fuel at an injector line I cracked. Where is the lift pump. That's what was wrong on my old mercedes a few months ago. Also, no primer pumps on these things? Thanks.

 

[burbn10]

OK just got in from checking stuff. I haven't checked voltage at the fuel solenoid but it has power and with the key on I can unplug it and hear the thing clunking in and out as I connect and unconnect the wire. I found a crimped fuel line coming off the filter so replaced it and tightened the other clamps. There was fuel in the filter but doesn't seem to be any fuel at an injector line I cracked. Where is the lift pump. That's what was wrong on my old mercedes a few months ago. Also, no primer pumps on these things? Thanks.

You prime the system by: 1. Disconnect the pink primary wire from the injection pump. 2. Hook a small hose to the filter bleed port (may already have one there) 3. Open turn knob on top of filter assembly. (Black plastic thing with a + shape) 4. Crank the engine until fuel shoots out of hose. (If no fuel comes out, it would be the lift pump or plugged fuel pickup in the tank). 5. Tighten knob on filter and hook back up primary wire to IP. Try to start engine. Still takes a few seconds longer to start than normal.

The lift pump in on the lower front passenger side of the motor. It looks just like a typical Chevy mechanical fuel pump. It is attached by 2 bolts.

 

[biggold]

Well I got it running! You called it I think. I bled the filter and it finally started so maybe air in it from loose clamps . I'm happy except now from all the cranking my starter is sounding a little "scratchy"! Dang. Can those be rebuilt? Thanks for all your help, greatly appreciated!

 

[burbn10]

Well I got it running! You called it I think. I bled the filter and it finally started so maybe air in it from loose clamps . I'm happy except now from all the cranking my starter is sounding a little "scratchy"! Dang. Can those be rebuilt? Thanks for all your help, greatly appreciated!

No problem! Glad I could help! Yeah. Those starters are easily rebuilt, but they are 24 volt. So make sure you get the right parts.

 

[Warthog]

I'm happy except now from all the cranking my starter is sounding a little "scratchy"! Dang. Can those be rebuilt? Thanks for all your help, greatly appreciated!

Glad you got it running.

There are two types of starters. The original Direct Drive (27MT) and the newer Gear Reduction Drive (28MT). The alternators are 27SI type 100 with the Isolated Ground

The TMs cover the rebuilds For additional information you can go to the Delco Remy webpage and get their manuals
Delco Remy

I buy alot of my starter/alternator parts from Spring Hill Auto Electrical

www.springhillautoelectric.com

Just make sure you get the 24v starter parts

 

[turnertmb91]

Replaced both alternators, both are 100 amps with built in voltage regulators, replaced both batteries (brand new),batteries are not recharging after driving. Dead as soon as it's shut off. Someone said it was the dashboard volt meter. Someone said it is a fuse. Can the voltage meter be disconnected permanently.

 

[cucvrus]

Pull the bottom 10 amp fuse in the fuse box and done. That could be your problem if you have a voltage meter that stays on all the time. It has to have only ground thru the wire not the case. I see some that ground thru the voltmeter case. NOT good for the CUCV. Will stay on all the time. Too far away to help. Good Luck.