M1009 heater blower switch

[CycleJay]

Hi guys...

The heater blower in my M1009 is not working.

I searched and read the threads on here on the subect, so I suspect it
is the switch and/or the motor.

Question's: If I replace the switch, can it be separated from the heater
control assembly, or do I have to replace the entire assembly?
If I have to replace the blower motor, does anyone have the correct
napa or LMC truck part numbers for the motor and the switch?

I am going to get out there, and do a proper inspection and cleaning
anyway. I read the TM's so I know how to remove and install the blower
motor.

Any advice would be appreciated. Winter is coming, and I need the blower
working.

Thank you...

 

[twlinks]

CJ, I replaced the switch only on mine and now it works, high only, but at least it works. It's about $10 bucks from NAPA but I don't have the number for you.

 

[CycleJay]

Twlinks,

Thank you for the tip, I will inquire with my local napa, and get it replaced.
Did you get the same switch that was already in there?
Since you said it works on high only, and the original switch is like 2-3 positions I think.

But in any case, with how cold it gets, I always had put it on high anyway. LOL

 

[Wildmax]

Only one speed sounds like the resistor coils are bad. They are located under the hood in the blower housing. Easily accessed and removed. Two screws hold it in the box. Most auto parts stores should have the blower motor. It is a common item that fits many applications.

 

[Wildmax]

You can check the motor first without pulling it. Just disconnect the lead and connect it to 12 volts. Make sure you have a good ground to the fan housing.

 

[ODFever]

The blower motor only has a few screws that hold it in. If it does test out bad, pop the thing out and run down to your favorite auto parts store, drop it on the counter, and ask for a replacement. There's a Delco number on the side of the motor that they can cross reference. Also, by walking in with with old motor you can match it up to an exact replacement. I can't count the number of times I used just a part #, got a replacement part home, and it didn't fit

 

[CycleJay]

Wildmax and ODFever,

Duly noted and considered.

Thank you...

 

[twlinks]

Yes, thank you wildmax and odfever...I'll do that next week.

CJ, yes, I replaced the switch with the same type.

 

[Varyag]

Mine stopped working this summer. Last weekend I took it apart and cleaned all of the connections with electronics cleaner, scraped off all of the crud with a little pick, cleaned all of the connections the same way and tossed it back in there. i now have all of the speed settings and a good working switch.

There really isn't that much to the switch once you get it disconnected.

I tested the blower motor first by just running a jumper from the battery to the connection. Once is saw that it was working good I knew it was the switch.

 

[CycleJay]

Hi guys,

Okay, I checked the fuse, for the blower. Good...
I checked the connector of wires coming from the bus bar behind the battery,
that plugs into the blower motor box on the firewall, all the connections inside
look like solid rust, same with the connections the connector plugs onto, on
blower motor box on the firewall. I used electrical connection cleaner on it,
no change, tried scraping too...

Tried tapping the blower motor box on the firewall, no help doing that either.

I will check the blower switch on the heater control assembly, at work some time
within the next day or so, if not next week.

But with all those rusty connections, I may just get the parts I need to replace
harness with the connector, the part of the box with the connections, the switch
and blower motor... I need all that working, winter is coming..

I will update if and when I can....

Good night...

 

[cpf240]

Did you try wiring the fan motor directly to 12v to verify the motor is good? You could also test the connections with a voltmeter while you have the fan switch on and the key in the run position. At least it might help narrow down the problem area without a lot of work and shooting in the dark.

Also, don't forget to disconnect the batteries before pulling the instrument panel trim to get to the fan switch. It is *very* easy to short out the voltmeter connections and cause other issues when pulling that panel out.

 

[CycleJay]

CPF,

I checked the connections, like I mentioned.
The rusted solid connections are on the blower motor resistor and the
blower motor resistor connector.
Could that cause it to stop working?
I could not jump 12v directly to the connection on the blower motor,
until I run to the auto parts store and get something safe I can jump it with.

As for working on anything electrical, I already know to disconnect both batteries first,
that is a no-brainer. So no worries there.
Thank you for the advice though, it is appreciated.

Do you or anyone, know where I can get the blower motor resistor and connector?
It is a 4 pin connection, not the 3 pin on some. W/out AC of course.

I tried searching the TM's for part numbers, no luck.. And napa, oreillys,
and do not find one, or find one that looks like mine.

I will try to work on it this week.

Thank you, good night...

 

[jw4x4]

Remove the blower motor and take it with you to the parts store. That way you can be sure to get the correct one. There are a couple of different shaft lengths. You may want to consider getting a jump box to keep on hand. Very handy for testing 12v electronics, and very useful when the power goes out.

 

[CycleJay]

JW,

Doh!! (CJ slapping himself... ) I have a 12v jump, and yet I did not even think of using it,
to jump the blower motor, I will try that. Thank you.

If the blower motor tests bad and not working, I will take it out and go to napa
or oreilly's...

But would those rusted connections stop it from working at all?

Night...

 

[cpf240]

CJ,

The rusted connections could easily stop it from working. If they can't be cleaned, then they should be replaced. What you might want to do is try powering the blower motor directly, to verify that the blower motor is good.

As for replacement blower resistors, etc, I would think any decent auto parts place should have them, though it seems you didn't have any luck with that. I would look at the LMC online catalog, as I recall seeing the resistors and even connectors in their catalog.

The -20p and -34p TMs *should* have the GM part numbers in there, though it sometimes takes me a while to find the correct section.

Good luck!

 

[CycleJay]

CPF,

Thanks for the information, and advice...

I tried cleaning those connections, no good..
I think I recall seeing them in the LMC catalog too, but I was hoping to find
them locally and help the local economy and all. No luck though.
Unless I were to take it out and take it into the parts store to see if they
have one that matches..
So I will try the LMC soon, so I know I get the correct ones.

But I will try to use my jumper box to check if that blower motor works.

When I read the TM's, I could not find M1009 part #'s for what I was looking for.
What section should I look in?


Good night...

 

[cpf240]

CJ,

Per the -20p TM, the resistor is GM part number 500890. Try doing a google search on "resistor 500890" and I think you'll find enough information to find a replacement.

For example, GMPartsWiki.com came up with this link for the NAPA part equivalent: https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/...ange+Number&Nty=1&Dn=0&D=500890&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0

The connector might be more of a problem, and I don't see part numbers for individual connectors in the TMs.

Again though, something like the LMC catalog should help. Looks like the blower resistor connector is item #9 here: Truck Parts and Truck Accessories

NAPA's site also shows a number of blower motor resistor connectors, so perhaps with the NAPA part number of the resistor, they can find the connector for you.

Hope that helps!

 

[ryan77]

Did you check the radio interference resistor on the pig tail to the blower motor? Those go bad and you will have no blower motor! You can take it of and just plug in the blower motor.

 

[CycleJay]

CPF,
Thanks for the new information and part number, oreilly's and napa has them on their website,
and oreilly's even has the connecter. Both parts are cheap enough to replace them.
Sames goes for the blower motor, that is fairly cheap too.

And if I dig into replacing the connector, resistor, etc. I may as well replace the other
heater parts too, they do not cost too much either.. (heater core, blower motor fan, etc.)

No sense replacing just one part, when you have the whole thing apart, may as well replace
the other parts to, as a preventative maintence measure...

I will dig into the heater control assembly in the instrument panel, and replace that switch
too, since I will be taking the panel off soon anyway to replace the fuel gauge,
and fix the shift indicator, and replace the voltmeter gauge...

Besides someone here told me, if the heater core leaks, it could be very bad for the engine.

Ryan, No, I did not check that resistor, did not know too, but I will now.
Thank you...

Thanks and good night guys...

 

[stationjj]

Odd you should mention the heater core. I live in the Nashville area. It's getting colder, and I have started checking my heater as well.

My heater core is leaking or clogged? I had leakage. I had a local radiator shop flush, clean, and repair for $32. No China junk!

The motor is making an odd sound. May be dying on me?

I am looking to rebuild the whole heater as well. Since I do have it all apart now.

CJ

Do you have any part numbers for orielly or napa on replacement parts. I am looking for motor, connector, resistor, and etc.

Thank You,

stationjj