m1009 occasional scary steering

[bryfor]

This has happened twice in a week to me. I made a turn at a paved intersection and upon accelerating it felt like my steering was wandering and had to overcompensate the steering wheel to get it to go straight. It would go one way...id overcompensate then it would go the other way which is the scarypart. This was at moderate speeds also...I dont hotdog mine a lot. And then it would just be fine. First thought was steering gearbox but im leaning towards a caliper. Ive been thru this truck preety good. Lubed everything with a fitting...even the tow pintle! And repacked front bearings. During repacking I noticed one caliper piston...forget which side...was pretty corroded but not leaking and I was thinking yep that one doesn't have long to go. One thing I noticed when I parked it to open the garage it seemed like one tire was slightly turned more than the other so I kinda shook the wheel back and forth then centered it and it looked normal. So now im gonna look at the tie rod tube also cause I hear the threads can fail on the inside of the tube. Does anyone know how to eliminate the steering as a problem? And I will check there for frame cracks which I just reasearched tonight. Guess its going on the stands in the morning and get out the magnifying eyes and hands. Thx for any input. Also bearings were adjusted till the freeplay just goes away...as we did in the military.

 

[bryfor]

I meant to say does anyone know how to eliminate the steering gear as my problem? Thx

 

[86m1028]

Check ball joints, axle ujoints, tie rods, drag link ends, rag joint on steering shaft.
Give it a good once over.
Is the steering tight & responsive or does it seem loose all the time ?

It could also be something as simple as an alignment.

 

[Obijuank5]

Check the frame for cracks at the steering box. I had the exact same symptoms when I needed a frame repair kit.

 

[usabamaman]

Check the frame for cracks at the steering box. I had the exact same symptoms when I needed a frame repair kit.

I have heard that this a problem on this vehicle, so when it was in the body shop I had them install the add-on frame supports before it could be a problem. It seems the designers made it a bit too weak in this spot for off road use. So I know it is a common problem and could put the steering box in a bind when turning.

 

[Drock]

Agree with earlier responses and I'd like to add. If those calipers are original to the truck, or just questionable. I'd replace them in quick order, regardless if their the cause of the steering problem or not. And also don't forget to grease them with the proper grease so they can float like their supposed to.

 

[Barrman]

If your tires look not pointing the same direction at times and then by turning the steering wheel they look right. You have something very loose. The best way to find it is something called a dry park check.

Put the truck on a solid clean dry surface. With the engine off, have someone move the steering wheel about 60° one direction, then the other and keep repeating. You want them to move the tires just a little in each direction. While they are doing this, you are touching every connection between the steering shaft and the tires. Touch, feel across joints, listen and look. You will probably find a few drag link or tie rod connections with slop in them. If there is slop, then that part needs to be replaced.

Once done with that, lift up the front axle. A pry bar under a front tire lifting up will show any slop in the ball joints. So will grabbing the top of the tire and pushing toward and then pulling away from the engine. If you get slop, you will have to figure out if it is ball joints or wheel bearings.

If all of the above checks out perfect. Then you get to think about and look at leaf spring front and rear bushings, the upper shackle hanger bushing in the frame, leaf spring U-bolts and the center pin on the leaf spring.

If all of that checks out good. Replace the u-Joints in the front axle. Which means you get to redo the front bearings too. A non returning steering wheel is normally a castor issue, but if the front axle shaft u-joints are binding, they will cause it too.

 

[max bowtie]

Had the same symptoms on my M1009. Passenger side caliper was seized up, I'm replacing it as we speak

 

[cucvrus]

I am placing my diagnosis with the outer axle u joints. I have had these issues in the past. NO more. I replace all these parts calipers/ball joints/tie rod ends and U joints on every CUCV I buy before I even operate it on the road. Beats the down time afterwards. Good luck.

 

[Hasdrubal]

I am placing my diagnosis with the outer axle u joints. I have had these issues in the past.

I second this analysis.

 

[Chaski]

I meant to say does anyone know how to eliminate the steering gear as my problem? Thx

Can you describe the way the steering felt again? Was it slow? Did it take more effort than normal? Did it want to return to center? How long has it been since you braked? How fast was the engine going (roughly)? Have you replaced your power steering pump? Have you replaced your hydroboost accumulator?

I'm with everyone else on the axle shaft u-joint, but it almost sounds like your hydroboost is hogging all the hydraulics and you are not getting any steering assist from time to time.

 

[bryfor]

I took the m1009 out today for about 30 miles and no issues. At all different speeds I kinda shook the wheel back and forth and she seemed fine. My axle shaft ujoints look original...pretty rusty but no slop in them or any other component on the front end. I lacked an assistant to do the dry test on pavement but will check that when I can. The calipers also look original with one in good shape and the other with alot of corosion around and inside the bore but not leaking. I will replace them to eliminate a sticking caliper and hopefully solve my scary wobble! I wouldnt say I felt binding in thr steering end....just had to track it back and forth to maintain control. And yep it was after a slow braking left hand turn. Thx for all the input guys

 

[cucvrus]

Outer axle U joints. Jack it up see if you can turn the wheel right to left. Bank to bank by hand from the wheels. You should be able to if the weight is off of the front axle and tires.

 

[bryfor]

Thx cucvrus...I will try that ujoint check. Their gonna need replacing soon guaging by the rust on them. Just hope the new ones have grease zerts! Im sure they wont....seems to be the norm not to these days!

 

[rustystud]

I have had a air bubble in my lines that caused my steering to fail when I was braking and turning at the same time. I was coming to a stop from the highway off ramp when my steering assist just stopped. I had to manually turn the wheel and during this time it would fight back and try and turn against me. Then it came back on after I released the brakes some. This is just something else to check after you look at all your U-joints and grease everything.
Of course if the front axle was not engaged and the hubs not locked in then there is no way the front axle U-joints could have caused this problem.

 

[royalflush55]

Thx cucvrus...I will try that ujoint check. Their gonna need replacing soon guaging by the rust on them. Just hope the new ones have grease zerts! Im sure they wont....seems to be the norm not to these days!

These u joints need to be the spicer hardened kind without grease zerts. They will last a lot long than the cheap ones with grease zerts.

 

[bryfor]

Found one lower ball joint bad on driver side. Iwas checking the ujoints as cucvrus described and felt a wiggle as I was manually turning the wheels while on jack stands. Shaking wheel up and down didnt reveal it...until I got out the bar of aging! I guess when I was 20 I didnt need it! My luck couldnt have it to be the pass side which would be a lot easier to change. I just repacked the front bearings two wks ago. Thats my luck. Hmmmm...the decision to replace those pesky ujoints while im in there. ...and 1 ball joint will lead to 4!

 

[bryfor]

Found one lower ball joint bad on driver side. Iwas checking the ujoints as cucvrus described and felt a wiggle as I was manually turning the wheels while on jack stands. Shaking wheel up and down didnt reveal it...until I got out the bar of aging! I guess when I was 20 I didnt need it! My luck couldnt have it to be the pass side which would be a lot easier to change. I just repacked the front bearings two wks ago. Thats my luck. Hmmmm...the decision to replace those pesky ujoints while im in there. ...and 1 ball joint will lead to 4!

 

[cucvrus]

Yes. I am sorry to say. Wise money and time is spent changing everything tie rod ends/ball joints/u joints,axle seals at hub end and brakes and calipers, right up front. Since the M1009 never had a greasable ball joints from factory it tends to be a bit dry and worn 30 + years later. While there I would spend the extra $25-$30. and replace both calipers and the front brake pads. And before you bleed the brakes a new master cylinder and put new rear wheel cylinders on the rear drums. Do it right. It is not expensive. And it sure makes for a nice driving vehicle. I take a lot of crap on this site about Autozone but I use them 95% of the time. I have rave results. It can't just be me. But all in all you can replace all the parts I mentioned for about $200-$250. Enjoy the Ride. I have pictures posted of the complete front end on my Terminus M1009 thread.

 

[royalflush55]

Found one lower ball joint bad on driver side. Iwas checking the ujoints as cucvrus described and felt a wiggle as I was manually turning the wheels while on jack stands. Shaking wheel up and down didnt reveal it...until I got out the bar of aging! I guess when I was 20 I didnt need it! My luck couldnt have it to be the pass side which would be a lot easier to change. I just repacked the front bearings two wks ago. Thats my luck. Hmmmm...the decision to replace those pesky ujoints while im in there. ...and 1 ball joint will lead to 4!

Just bite the bullet and do it all while you're in there. Then better driving!