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M1009 Water Pump

southpolie

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santa barbara, ca
Noticed some coolant under the M1009 the other day. Checked radiator and see it is quite empty. Add some water and it just pours out the water pump. Looks like catastrophic seal failure.

Question: is it fairly straightforward replacing these? Anything to look out for? How much will I need to take off besides the belts and balancer? Can I use the civilian pump or is the CUCV special? Saw something about reverse flow but not too clear.

I have an aftermarket AC in there if that affects things..

Jerry
 

Sajer

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Location
IN
I just replaced mine and it was a bit of a bear, but if you take your time it should not be an issue.

I did however crack the alum thingy that divides the water to both sides of the engine. Had it rewelded, but its not holding so im off to a guy i know who has two m1009s in his backyard for spare parts.
 

319

Lieutenant
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Michigan
Be sure it's the pump leaking before you tear it down. Mine developed a leak a short time ago and as I was removing the power steering bracket I noticed the coolant dripping from a bolt, I tightened it, put the pressure tester on it and no more leak!

The pump is the standard 6.2 pump. The procedure is in the technical manual. Pump should come with a gasket but you'll need sealant for the plate behind it.
 
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southpolie

New member
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santa barbara, ca
Be sure it's the pump leaking before you tear it down. Mine developed a leak a short time ago and as I was removing the power steering bracket I noticed the coolant dripping from a bolt, I tightened it, put the pressure tester on it and no more leak!


I'm pretty sure it is the pump seal. When I add water to the radiator it literally pours out the pump housing. At least it looks like that is where it is coming from...
 

MuleMac01

Military vehicle collector
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Las Vegas Nevada
sorry for reopening this post ........... my water pump seal is starting to go bad and i dont know how to replace the water pump is there a cheep way to install a new one? because i dont have alot of money... and this could not happend at the worest time because i need to drive 80 miles per day for 17 days for my new job
 
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Oldsouthernboy

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Jacksonville, al
The cheaper you go the more it will cost. DO it right the first time and you will have a long period of pleasure. The pump is not to hard just a bear getting to it. Look at the tm and if not sure how it goes look at the 20P for the diagrams on how things go together. If good with tools and a miminum of good dam tools you will be all right.
 

ranchhopper

Well-known member
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139
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Location
south elgin illinois
Check the bolts on the lower part of where the pump bolts on they go into the water jacket and will leak if not tight they should have sealant on them from when they were put on but who knows.
 

junkridge

Member
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6
Location
leicester nc
Its not that bad.. the balancer does not need to be removed, remove alt bolts (2 on pass side 3 on driver side) 15mm, (4)fan nuts 13mm lay alternators out of the way remove PS pump ( 2 )15mm in front and (1) 15mm in rear. remove (2) 13mm for oil spout remove water pump 15mm bolts and then the remaining 13mm bolts in pump plate there are 2 hard to see but easy to get to under water pump, there is one 13mm bolt behind the water nipple on coolant crossover that goes to pump that I have found to be easy if you remove the nipple, once that is done water pump and plate will come off there are i think 7 13mm bolts holding pump to plate from back side. The main thing on doing this only once is to be sure you clean all gasket material off I use a 3m sctotch brite wheel on a air dremel tool the factory stuff is tuff to remove do not use and type of grinding wheel!! It makes it easy if you use a "high tack" permatex brush on type glue to hold gaskets in place on plate and let dry before the install or your gasket will move when you go against block causing a leak!! Give me a shout if you need further I will be glad to help.
 

junkridge

Member
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Location
leicester nc
bonehead question... do i have to bleed the power steering pump when i put this all back together?
Did you take the lines loose? I always just lay it aside, If you took lines loose you will have to fill with fluid and run engine after install to get air out ( it will be foam looking) just move the steering wheel back and forth it will bleed itself pretty quick, then fill to line on stick be sure not to overfill!
 

Mudstone

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Norman OK
nope i didn't remove any of the lines... so ps is good. my only question now is... what's the deal with this backing plate on the pump? does it need to come off? What's in there? any tip on how to get it off... seems machined very close tolerance and i have no way of getting any leverage to get it off... any wisdom would be greatly appreciated. Also having trouble with p/n for new pump.
 

Firefighter2239

New member
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Location
Mill Spring, NC
Now, I heard that there is a military water pump and a civilian water pump and that the difference is about 80 gallons per minute. Is that true? I just had the water pump replaced on mine and it was just a standard 6.2 water pump but the hose that goes back into radiator is not getting stiff like it should. It does not fill like the appropriate amount of water is being cycled. Could that just be a sign of a different problem? Thank you in advance for your help.
 

Racallahan1

Member
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6
Location
San Diego, ca
Resurrecting this thread with a water pump gasket question. My vehicle is a civilian Blazer with a 6.2 Diesel. My Chilton's manual calls for anaerobic sealant on the mounting plate that bolts onto the timing cover. Do I need a paper gasket with anaerobic sealer, or can I use "The Right Stuff" gasket maker and call it a day?
 

Chaski

Active member
684
56
28
Location
Burney/CA
Loctite 518 is an anaerobic gasket maker, the right stuff is not. I did mine a couple years ago and used Loctite 518, no problems now. One thing that wasn't mentioned in this old thread is that there is a reverse rotation pump for the newer 6.5's with a serpentine belt... It won't work.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,469
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I used the right stuff on several of them. I use the right stuff on everything I do. It is in my opinion the best sealant to date. I have been using it the past 10 years with out fail. I started buying it in caulking tube size now. The full size caulking tube. I have used the new water pumps from Auto Zone. I like the warranty and have never had one of them fail either. That is just me. I never look that deep into things. If I did I would only put AC Delco oil and transmission fluid and GM approved washer fluid in the windshield washer fluid bottle. It is a not that important if it works use it. I use the gasket and the right stuff.
 

Racallahan1

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Location
San Diego, ca
I was going to use just the right stuff. No paper gasket. I had the locktite 518, but my water pump was hitting the harmonic balancer, so I had to clean it off and grind a little off of the bottom portion of the pump. My fault for not test fitting the new one first. Anyway, I'm out of the locktite now, so I was hoping to use what I have available.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Jonestown Pennsylvania
Why is the water-pump hitting the harmonic balancer? I never had that happen. Are you sure you have the correct water-pump? Are you sure your harmonic balancer is in place correctly. That sends up a flag to check everything out. Do as you wish. Good luck.
 
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