M1009 Z.O.R.V. Gen2 and Fuel issues

[86 K5 Blaz]

Ok, Ive owned my M1009 for a few months now and I love it. Shes got a few issues though.

Typical Gen 2 light....just not so typical. The Gen. has been rebuilt, and tests fine. I'm not sure if the "exciter" wire is getting "excited". Does this have anything to do with the starter relay? Or turning the key all the way to the "start" position? Because the relay has been bypassed and its just a toggle switch running from the battery post to the starter with amp wiring. (Ghetto, I know...but I didnt do it!!) So if it has to be turned all the way to start...it isn't.

The fuel issue is the typical losing prime/air leak. I plan to fix that with an electric fuel pump and screw on filter. My only question about this is can I put the pump under the drivers side floor pan where the 8" of soft line is? Or does it have to be all the way back by the tank?

I'm assuming your wondering why its called the "Z.O.R.V"? That's because its becoming the Zombie Outbreak Response Vehicle. Its only on the tailgate now. But I have the stencils for the doors and in mirror for the front of the hood. Like and ambulance is Bolting shovels to the quarter panels, and getting a safari rack with lights covering the sides.

 

[86 K5 Blaz]

So, the blaz had a bad day. A really bad day. The starter has this thing where it likes to spin up before it kicks out. Well it did. And instead of taking all the teeth from the flywheel and starter, it snapped the entire cone from the starter. The part that holds the shaft in the center..completely shattered.

Sadly, its now 12V and has a new 12V starter. My only issue is the same one I had before...Gen 2 doesn't work. And that's the gen that I'm using for the entire system now. I don't think I'm getting power to the exciter wire of Gen2....is there an exciter wire on gen2? I don't see it.

My starter relay is bad, has been long before I bought it. Its ghetto switched to a toggle on the dash. Now that it is 12V, do I need to even use a relay? Can I just splice the 2 wires together that go to the relay?

Sorry for all the questions...I'm just stuck.

 

[Barrman]

This is going to sound cruel, but it needs to be said.

You own an experimental vehicle. We can help you fix a stock CUCV wiring system, but since you and the previous owner are the engineers that designed your current vehicle. You will have to figure out how to fix it.

Reading the manuals for the CUCV will help you understand how things are supposed to work. Maybe that will help with your search for an exciter wire on the alternator that in stock form does not do anything but charge up the battery that does half the starting and glow plug duty. You have that alternator running the entire truck now so I don't have a clue where to tell you to start.

 

[Westech]

 

[Warthog]

My questions are:

If it is now 12v why would you need the GEN2 alternator. Do you have one or two batteries. How are they wired up.

Too many unknowns and you haven't given us enough information to be able to help.

If the truck was stock, I could sit at my desk across country, look at the wiring diagrams and tell you what to check.

Without knowing how the previous owner hacked up the wiring it is a guessing game for us.

Looking at your old posts, why didn't you continue that thread instead of starting a new one?

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/59324-no-lights-but-everything-else-works.html

 

[86 K5 Blaz]

Ok, All the wiring that was messed up has been returned to stock. It was just wired around the starter relay, and volt meter. Those have been fixed and since I had to replace my starter and couldn't find a 24V one, I bought a 12V one from Advanced. I followed the 12V conversion method found on this site to make it 12V again. It says to use the passenger side alt as the only alt for the system. The batteries are wired in a parallel, as the instructions said to do.

You guys are making this sound like its all ruined, like everything is totally broke. Like I did everything I possibly could to ruin it....I dont see why you say that. The only thing wrong with the wiring is that the brown and white wire going to gen2 is only getting 2.2V. The system as converted to 12V via the instructions I was givin from this site...its not hacked and messed up.

 

[Warthog]

Ok, All the wiring that was messed up has been returned to stock. It was just wired around the starter relay, and volt meter. Those have been fixed and since I had to replace my starter and couldn't find a 24V one, I bought a 12V one from Advanced. I followed the 12V conversion method found on this site to make it 12V again. It says to use the passenger side alt as the only alt for the system. The batteries are wired in a parallel, as the instructions said to do.

You guys are making this sound like its all ruined, like everything is totally broke. Like I did everything I possibly could to ruin it....I dont see why you say that. The only thing wrong with the wiring is that the brown and white wire going to gen2 is only getting 2.2V. The system as converted to 12V via the instructions I was givin from this site...its not hacked and messed up.

We are not saying it is completely broke. We can only go on the information that you have given us.

You hadn't told us that it was returned to stock wiring and all the other details. How can we "know" that?

The conversion that you did with the instructions you found is from The Rosscommon Equipment Center. No one on here wrote them. Maybe they know the answers.

Now to your problem.

So what voltage are you getting at the little red wire next to the browm wire?

Is the 2.2v at the brown wire with the key on or off.

You have to help us out here with more details.

Some of the items that could be a problem starting at the alternator are:

a dirty connection at the alternator
a dirty connection at the firewall plug
a bad GEN2 diode at top of the dash
a dirty connection at the GEN2 relay
a bad GEN2 relay
dirty connections at the instrument cluster
a bad circuit board on the instrument cluster
a bad GEN2 bulb
a bad or dirty fuse at the 24v slot (now 12v)
or a bad wire somewhere

Since you truck is NOT stock anymore we are just guessing as to what the problem is.

The advice you get here is free. If you don't like the responses, you can always take it to a shop and pay them to fix it for you.