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M101 Dump Bed

Brent13

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Colo Springs, CO
Hello All,

I just got back from Ft. Carson with my first trailer, a M101. Now I have read that some of the M101's have the capability of dumping, but thought the one I was getting would not. Now after looking at it, I think it will dump. It does have the connections at the front of the trailer, mounted to the tongue. Bolts with nuts though, not pins with cotter pins. So what is the procedure? Set the brakes, remove the bolts, and back up? Any one have pictures of a M101 dumping?

Thanks,
Brent
 
Here are a couple pictures I found elsewhere on this site:

Keep in mind, I filled mine to the top of the Rails (Not shown in either of these Picts) with bark and the tralier would not tilt due to excessive weight.

Also, I have to heat and bend the brackets welded to the frame and bend them inward because they are very tight with the outter ones. I normally have to pry bar them apart prior to dumping.
 

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Brent13

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Colo Springs, CO
Thank you. I am going to use the trailer for hauling my ATV and am now thinking I might be able to use the dump feature to load and unload. Might be possible.....Looks mighty steep however, but not much steeper than the ramp I use to load into the bed of my truck.

Brent
 

Elwenil

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Covington, VA
Weld a chain to the frame and then to the bed to limit the dump. Couple that with the tailgate down and you have a nice slope that an ATV should handle easily. You could also use a disconnect link, hook or shackle in the chain to disconnect it if you haul something you need to dump normally.
 
Chain, good Idea. I was also thinking about building a link in to lock the up position in place. Then you could move the vehicle to juggle the items and make them slide out. Just because its tilted, doesnt mean all will slide out easily. Also, if it is up and you put weight in the top of it, it will fall, watch for that.

Still a pretty slick program.
 

rosco

Active member
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Delta Junction, Alaska
Actually, I suspect that the "dumping feature" is a side effect of the fact that they made the tongue, so that if the tongue frames rear bolts are removed, the tongue can be rotated vertically, for storage/shipping purposes - the tongue frame part that is under the bed, rotates downward and acts as a stand!.

Lee in ALaska
 

BubbaPhil

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I have heard of M101A1 being converted/modified to a dump trailer?? Does anyone have plans that they might be willing to share . . . For my applications just removing the pins, locing the brakes and backing up isn't practical.
 

Monty

Member
352
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Location
Raymond Wisconsin
I just used mine to drop off scrap steel, I was shocked when I drove over the scale after dumping the steel and it showed that I had 3k lbs of steel in the trailer.
The trailer barely even squated when I was loading it, but I could tell once I started to pull it that it had a load in it.

It would be nice to see a small 12/24vdc hydraulic pump/cylinder to dump the loads out, has anyone ever tried this?
 

ucfjeeper

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St. Cloud, Fl
get an electric hydraulic pump and mount it to the trailer tounge, add a ram under the bed of the trailer, supply power from the tow vehicle - instant auto dump trailer.
 

RealCavDog

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Joplin, Missouri
O.K. Guys and Gals ! I knew if I searched and read long enough I would find just the right existing forum to add to and eliminate the dreaded "What ? Thats been done already !" messages, and this also only said M101, so using one of my many A2's works !

So, while demonstrating one of my trailers that I have for sale locally, I noticed a stress crack in the cast pivot point under the trailer ( yes, I know it's not technically a pivot point ! Thats the purpose of this post ! ) Well, A friend of mine said that in his opinion he thought we should try and figure out the limitations of the operation and take plenty of pictures, as I was wanting to add to a photo thread, so here we go !

Don't try this at home kids, without access to spare parts and the time to fix it !

Anyway, started with my oldest M116A2 chassis trailer, retro fitted with a M101A2 box. Had used it maybe a dozen times to haul junk, brush and furniture, and maybe 6 prior times to haul rock and gravel, but not to dump. Yesterday I decided to apply several of the issues I have read in many different threads and see how it all went down and document it in a photo essay !

Please keep in mind that I already had plans to rewire and other things, so this was kind of fun, while still getting to get some work done !

First, remove the front bolts and replace with 1/2 x 5 inch hitch pins. ( 6 inch was all I had available ! ) Easier said than done because after years of use, things don't always line up again easily when freed up !

Have also read suggestions of grinding the blocks for a more free fit, but all I had to do was smack the 2 steel ears on each side with my 8 inch handled sledge and they worked great.

Next I adjusted the hand brakes to eliminate any slack, made sure they still released fully and set them, making sure that the cables did indeed stay on the pulley bellcrank, as they do have a tendency to move and when you try and set them you don't notice that they are not fully locked !

Open the tailgate and DO use the chains, it may not fully open flat, but thats not the issue, you want it to be able to pivot when dumping, not get bent up or do damage to other parts like the lights, landing gear lock brackets, etc. And NO ! I wasn't going to demo that part of the " Do not do " List !

So, I put the truck in reverse, and find that I have to bump it sharply at first to get it lifting, and after it moves once, you can put it all the way back down and works easier after that, If you have made sure that your load is at least distibuted fairly evenly front to rear ! While replacing the bolts with the pins, I was pleasantly surprised how easily it was to lift ! Was balanced great when empty and the gate up !

First issue, and it took a bit, but I had the weight to do it, the stock wiring being held in the original brackets let it raise about 30 degrees or so until they gave up and tore the ends off ! Had to be watching for it, because never would have felt it !

At about 35/40 degrees, the gate starts to contact the ground, depending on chain length.

At about 45 degrees, the tires begine to leave the ground, your rear support/locking bracket is making ground contact, and whats really great, is that the lights will generally avoid all ground contact, depending on the terrain of course !

After this point, I have two very important words, NOT RECOMMENDED !

Now the follwing pictures, and I may have to post twice so I can use them all, so hang in there, it may take a bit to get them all loaded, are of 2 attempts to finish up the pre-existing crack that I had found. The quarry is close by, on lightly traveled roads, and I kept it slow, had tools, cables, chains, straps, spares and the best part, my buddy in his wrecker ! Safety first, and I was still pretty tense, especially wondering how long it had been that way !

AGAIN ! It took 2 ( TWO ) attempts to create a critical failure in a controlled setting ! Wel . . . Semi-Controlled ! LOL !

So here we go with the numbers, 2001 GMC 6.0 AWD extended cab, half a tank of fuel, 225 pound driver, 25 pound spoiled male Beagle, and approx. 300 pounds of spare tire, floor jack, tools and recovery kit, pulling an M116A2/M101A2 trailer w/o sides, bows or tarp.

1st. Test load ;

Tare weight across the scales - 6880 lbs.
Gross weight across the scales - 9960 lbs.
Net weight of 5/8 rock chips - 3080 lbs. Thats 1.54 tons and barely up to the fenderwells !

2nd. Test load ;

Tare weight across the scales - 6860 lbs. ( A little less fuel ! )
Gross weight across the scales - 10740 lbs.
Net weight of 3/4 clean rock - 3880 lbs. Thats 1.94 tons and barely over the fenderwells !


Could only load up 10 pictures, so these are the first load, only damage is the wiring ! Stayed tuned for the next 10 ! Trailer standing straight up and down and close-up shots of the broken mounting bracket !
 

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RealCavDog

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Joplin, Missouri
O.K. ! Here's round 2 ! The more interesting set of ten !

Almost a bit cautious to mention this, but guess what I will be in the market for soon !

Anyway, it was a great learning experience, I hope all the pictures and notes will help many others in the future not to make the same mistakes that so many others have before !

Can Not say it enough ! Research, Research, Research, It will save time , money and aggravation in the long run !

In this particular case, I discovered a problem and used it as a training tool, and a bit of fun ! , and I now the very real limitations of this conversion and use.

As an after thought, I realize that I totally skiiped over the suggestion mentioned before about installing a chain or cable to limit the travel distance of the bed, thus helping to reduce the risk of this very dangerous safety situation from occuring !

A very great idea that I will be suggesting and utilizing from here out !

It's been fun Ya'll ! Time for a cold one ! :beer:
 

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KsM715

Well-known member
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Location
St George Ks
I'd take that piece,(and the other side) cut them off and re-weld them (actually rebuild them) so they are inline with the frame rails. That would eliminate the stress from using the trailer for dumping.
 

Tanner

Active member
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Location
Raleigh, NC
I don't believe that the M101Ax was designed for dumping; I recall as well that the reason for the folding tongue was ONLY for transport purposes...

Doesn't mean that people won't use them for a dump trailer, though...

'Tanner'
 
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