M101A3 brakes

[ungr8fl1]

I recently picked up my first m101 and on the way home the right wheel was smoking a little but it was a bit bumpy with construction so I thought it may have locked up a little. I have used it twice since with no issues, but this past weekend bringing it home loaded with firewood it began smoking again really bad and actually had a small flame and smoldered a bit. I have not yet been able to take it apart to see what's up and after many hours of trolling for guidance figured i'd see if anyone has any experience with this.

 

[indy4x4fab]

More then likely the you have smoked the wheel bearings and races. You will have to pull the hole hub apart and if you are really unlucky the inter bearing may be ceased to the spindle.

Why didn't repack the wheel bearings after the first issues?

 

[blybrook]

First, check that the parking brakes are fully disengaged. Loosen as necessary. Also be sure you have a copy of the TM handy.

I had a similar situation happen a couple months ago and it was caused by the actuator rod bolt being broken and permitting the master to be engaged at all times. I ended up rebuilding the surge actuator and the brakes on both sides. You will want to get that drum off and make sure that you haven't damaged anything internally. Repack the bearings while you're in there (or replace with new) along with new races / seals as required. I wouldn't suggest locking out the brakes in the mean time unless you can verify that the master cylinder actuating rod is sliding freely in the lunette bracketry and not binding in any fashion. Also, back off the brake pads slightly (you may need to loosen the parking brake cables at the handles to get more travel).

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/trailers/44524-m101a2-a3-brake-shoes.html is the thread with the part numbers on the bearings, shoes and seals. Be sure to read all posts in there as there are a couple hints.

While you are taking it apart, check the master cylinder actuator rod, I found mine to have a broken bolt and therefore locking the brakes at all times (it is above the lunette, you'll need to remove 8 nuts to get the lunette off). The master can be replaced at NAPA if you need to (http://www.steelsoldiers.com/trailers/77229-m101a2-master-cylinder-question.html) I know I posted a few tips on other threads on how to get a new crush washer to fit.

The drums themselves seem to be unobtanium, so be careful while pulling things apart.

I know I haven't covered everything. If you can change regular drum brakes on a vehicle, you can easily get the trailer done. I think it took me about 6 hours from start to finish once I had all the parts in front of me. This also included building a pressurized brake bleeder system.

Good luck on the repair.

 

[ungr8fl1]

For what it's worth I had to get back surgery shortly after my first posting and have not been able to look at it since. My dad came down recently and was bored and decided to go out and look at it for me. The issue turned out to be the piston. It was locked almost in a 45 degree angle and the little plastic bushing inside was beat to crap. I'll be order full assemblies today since some of the springs are broke/warped and of course the brakes and piston are shot. Thanks for the responses and the help.

 

[roady]

Good luck with the back. This hobby can be really hard on the back and body. Since getting into it I have a lower back problem and just had hernia surgery. Everything is extra heavy. You can get rid of your 1/4 socket sets for this hobby....

 

[ungr8fl1]

I actually busted it up years ago and just did a disk replacement in December part of a clinical trial. It is an amazing procedure that took less than two hours and i am now walking the treadmill pain free at 3.5 mph. I now have a metal alloy replacement disc on my l4/l5 and would love to be able to do a couple toughmudder's this year.

 

[scrapdaddy]

That's great to hear they fixed your back up. Mine's shot too, maybe that will be the common cure in a few years. Good luck with it and you better buy your Dad a beer for helping with the 101.

 

[awolhmv]

First, check that the parking brakes are fully disengaged. Loosen as necessary. Also be sure you have a copy of the TM handy.

I had a similar situation happen a couple months ago and it was caused by the actuator rod bolt being broken and permitting the master to be engaged at all times. I ended up rebuilding the surge actuator and the brakes on both sides. You will want to get that drum off and make sure that you haven't damaged anything internally. Repack the bearings while you're in there (or replace with new) along with new races / seals as required. I wouldn't suggest locking out the brakes in the mean time unless you can verify that the master cylinder actuating rod is sliding freely in the lunette bracketry and not binding in any fashion. Also, back off the brake pads slightly (you may need to loosen the parking brake cables at the handles to get more travel).

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/trailers/44524-m101a2-a3-brake-shoes.html is the thread with the part numbers on the bearings, shoes and seals. Be sure to read all posts in there as there are a couple hints.

While you are taking it apart, check the master cylinder actuator rod, I found mine to have a broken bolt and therefore locking the brakes at all times (it is above the lunette, you'll need to remove 8 nuts to get the lunette off). The master can be replaced at NAPA if you need to (http://www.steelsoldiers.com/trailers/77229-m101a2-master-cylinder-question.html) I know I posted a few tips on other threads on how to get a new crush washer to fit.

The drums themselves seem to be unobtanium, so be careful while pulling things apart.

I know I haven't covered everything. If you can change regular drum brakes on a vehicle, you can easily get the trailer done. I think it took me about 6 hours from start to finish once I had all the parts in front of me. This also included building a pressurized brake bleeder system.

Good luck on the repair.

None of those links work anymore. Why is there not a sticky for brake part numbers? I need the part number for pads!!