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M1031 build thread

Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
488
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
I picked up my M1031 a few weeks ago. All of my orders have come in with parts so now onto the build. First stage was to get it running. This required new glow plugs (or atleast the 6 new ones are working better than just 2 old ones), crimping new wider glow plug terminals with some shrink wrap, a new set of Exide 1000 CCA group 31's from Tractor Supply, and a quick ride to the shop so I can work on it without laying in the drive way.

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Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
488
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
I got the truck to the school and first order was to put some new belts on. The Wiki has some conflict on what belts to use being that some of them will never be tight enough. I think that if your PS belt is too loose, your driver side GEN will never be tight enough either. I also did a resistor bypass just to be on the safe side. If the **** hits the fan, my last worry is going to be getting a jump start from a NATO plug equipped HMMWV :)

These are the belts I used and all of my tension bolts are dead even in the center of adjustment.
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Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
488
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
I managed to squeeze the tank onto my assymetrical 9000lb. lift which makes me scared. That is why I chose not to tackle this job with the truck over my head.

I did put my vacuum system on my smoke tester and turns out my vacuum valve is smoking worse than a typical high school kid. I'm not sure if this is normal but it will be on the list of things to fix.

The lift kit is standard ORD fare 4" shackle flip kit with Tuff Country shocks, brake lines, and a drop pitman arm (which Skyjacker conviently neglects to paint and actually pre rusts the part before packaging). Going on are 37" Goodyears. I know...blah blah blah. Just like everyone else.

I am absolutely amazed that not a single bolt has fought me or my Snap On electric impact. Even the pitman arm came right off. Usually it requires atleast 1 quart of blood, a torch, and a broken finger to get those off. This pitman arm was happy to be removed. Good boy...

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Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
488
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
Thanks! This truck looks cleaner and cleaner the more I take apart. The only rust I could find was a small nickel sized spot on the drivers floorboard and some surface rust on the front right wheel well. I think someone exploded a battery or something because one tray and underneath it has some crust which will require a little love.

I got the front end buttoned up this morning. To my surprise, someone already replaced the front shackle bushings so they saved me a ton of fighting. One point for me!

On to the back, torched all of my rivet heads off. Chiseled them through the frame, then drilled out to 7/16" as per ORD's instructions. I also noticed that the shackle bracket requires a little trimming on the MV trucks.

I am really impressed with ORD's quality, not many issues with grinding to fit or having to replace hardware which you typically run into with other "lift kits."

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steved454

New member
123
0
0
Location
brandon/ms
Very Cool keep the pics coming! I have a 4 1/2 inch spring lift on mine with the same 37 inch tires. I did have to slightly trim my fenders. I put a touch of black paint where I cut it and to me it looks factory.
 

Danger Ranger

New member
2,253
23
0
Location
Roland, IA
Looks like a good truck and a great project. Keep up the good work on it.

I managed to squeeze the tank onto my assymetrical 9000lb. lift which makes me scared. That is why I chose not to tackle this job with the truck over my head.
Get a real lift.....like a Mohawk, and you won't have to be worried or scared, lol.
 

Attachments

Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
488
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
I didn't get much done today. I first did some engine service including replacing all of the coolant hoses, installing a new thermostat, and fixing a coolant crossover tube leak at the cylinder head. I used this as an opportunity to flush out the engine, radiator, and heater core with water.

I changed the engine oil and filter. I think the filter hasn't been changed in the last three years. Yikes! Rotella 15W-40 is fairly cheap at Tractor Supply. So far, they have been 15% cheaper on service items lke fluids, batteries, hoses, etc. than NAPA.

On to the transmission...

I have a late shift issue which will only upshift at redline which is about 30mph and 50mph. I pulled the governor just for fun and it seemed fine. I checked it according to the TM. It had .020" clearance at both ends. The valve did seem alittle gummy but not enough to make me think it would hang up. I cleaned it up and worked the valve, hope this makes a difference.

Then I dropped the pan to change the fluid and filter. When I removed the filter, the kickdown solenoid dropped and hung by it's wire:shock:

It seems that the four spotwelds that hold it to the flange which bolts to the valvebody have snapped. I hope this is the source of my redline only shift problems. Won't have one till the end of the week. I will use this opportunity to clean 29 years worth of sludge on the trans pan.


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chevyCUCV

New member
598
5
0
Location
Massachusetts
Nice truck i hope you are keeping the box on the rear.

And +1 for electric impact by snap on. I forget i have it most of the time, but when i use it, it works well.
 

Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
488
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
Very Cool keep the pics coming! I have a 4 1/2 inch spring lift on mine with the same 37 inch tires. I did have to slightly trim my fenders. I put a touch of black paint where I cut it and to me it looks factory.
I figured I will have to trim. Did you need to cut the front or rear part of the fender? I chose not to do a zero rate and push the axle forward because I am planning on keeping the stock steering for awhile until more funds become available.

Looks like a good truck and a great project. Keep up the good work on it.



Get a real lift.....like a Mohawk, and you won't have to be worried or scared, lol.
I have a real lift, it will only lift vehicles that have less than 6 lug nuts at each corner though:cry:
 

Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
488
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
Nice truck i hope you are keeping the box on the rear.

And +1 for electric impact by snap on. I forget i have it most of the time, but when i use it, it works well.
I do plan on keeping it. I originally wanted to get rid of the entire PTO generator setup but have decided to rewire it for single phase 120/240v and sell my Honda 5kW gas gennie. This way I can run pretty much anything I need including my house. I will pick up a small inverter camp gennie for keeping the fridge and other things going during power outages so that I don't have to hear or more specifically smell my 6.2 outside making power.

The Snap On impact has been on the job all week so far. What a great tool, worth the money. Beats hearing that air compressor kick on to fill my leaking 50 year old school shop system every ten minutes:shock::shock::shock:
 

jets1959

Member
594
9
18
Location
Lakewood, WA
Just a few things. First great truck. Second your filler cap is the wrong one, it will over pressure the oil system causing leaks or worse. The correct one is from a 1978 1500 Suburban with diesel 350 engine. It will allow the engine to breathe and it is only $9 at o'reilly's. Third the shifting problem. Mine was the vaccum pump, but it looks like you may have multiple problems. It is a vaccum issue. Put a vaccum gage on the pump and work your way to the trans. The trans should shift from first to second at fifteen mph and from second to third at twenty five mph. These speeds are indicated not actual, and may very a little. I hope this helps you out.:beer:
 

Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
488
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
Just a few things. First great truck. Second your filler cap is the wrong one, it will over pressure the oil system causing leaks or worse. The correct one is from a 1978 1500 Suburban with diesel 350 engine. It will allow the engine to breathe and it is only $9 at o'reilly's. Third the shifting problem. Mine was the vaccum pump, but it looks like you may have multiple problems. It is a vaccum issue. Put a vaccum gage on the pump and work your way to the trans. The trans should shift from first to second at fifteen mph and from second to third at twenty five mph. These speeds are indicated not actual, and may very a little. I hope this helps you out.:beer:
Thankyou, I'm digging the M1031. Makes me want to go out and get an M1009 for a DD. I have to wait for the girlfriend to accept this one before I go out and surprise her with another:)

I looked up on RockAuto two oil filler caps. The one for an 84' K30 6.2 is:

More Information for STANT 10066

The 78' C10 Suburban with 350 diesel is:

More Information for STANT 10076

As far as the trans shift issue, I had 25" of vacuum at the pump at idle(fluctutates a few inches up and down, not sure if this is normal). Once I get the new solenoid and fluids buttoned up, I will road test to see what the trans is doing.
 

jets1959

Member
594
9
18
Location
Lakewood, WA
The Stant 10076 is the correct one. I am not sure bout the vacuum pump pressure but it sounds about right. Check on line here for the TM's, also since you are keeping this truck and want another you might want to buy a set. Good luck and green machines do self multiply.
 

Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
488
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
The Stant 10076 is the correct one. I am not sure bout the vacuum pump pressure but it sounds about right. Check on line here for the TM's, also since you are keeping this truck and want another you might want to buy a set. Good luck and green machines do self multiply.
MV Multiplication...unknown cure other than to buy more:grin:

Can I ask what the difference between caps is? I started looking at 6.2 photos online and it seems that each type of cap is used. You say that it is some type of pressure cap. It does look like a small radiator cap. I am unfamiliar with how they work.
 

Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
488
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
I finished up my shackle flip, bled the brakes with my uber cool $30 a quart DOT5 brake fluid, dropped the vehicle weight on the suspension to tighten all of my fasteners up, and put my wheels on.

The truck now has a great stance, very proportional to to the truck and tire size. This is how they should have come from the factory. I had some free time to do some fluid maintenance. I pulled the front diff cover and inside looks brand new. I even took time to clean and paint my diff tags. I want anyone looking to see that my D60 not only has 4.56 gears but a limited slip as well. Just like the Honeybadger...it is pretty bad ass.

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jets1959

Member
594
9
18
Location
Lakewood, WA
MV Multiplication...unknown cure other than to buy more:grin:

Can I ask what the difference between caps is? I started looking at 6.2 photos online and it seems that each type of cap is used. You say that it is some type of pressure cap. It does look like a small radiator cap. I am unfamiliar with how they work.
It is a vent cap. The other cap doesn't allow the engine to breath building up pressure. Civy engines at the time didn't allow this for emissions reasons. The Government can do what they want.
 
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