M1031 Governor control discussion

[b4thundr]

The m1031's governor boxes are not very user friendly and in most cases non-working. Although some times these boxes still work and with a little help on the safety systems and wiring they can be made to function again. I have found that most times the safety switches can be bypassed to get the systems working again. The other problem with these systems is the barber-coleman boxes are not made anymore. this presents a real problem when trying to get this system up and running. I have started this thread for all M1031 owners to discuss the governor controls on these trucks, wiring problems and fixes, and anything that pertains to this part of the system. I welcome anyone to comment with tips and fixes that they have made on there trucks! I have most of the manuals for the controls, gen set and the maintenance of the able body on these trucks.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...d-Apecs-controller&highlight=governor+control

 

[Keith_J]

Perfect, although I am a bit late to the discussion. One BIG problem I discovered is the power supply to the governor is weak. First of all, there are two inline fuses, the glass tube type. These are weak, both of mine had resistance, the under dash one was over 1 ohm and had partially melted the solder inside the tube. Once those were fixed and the governor box had a good 13+ volts, the governor runs PERFECTLY. As a permanent fix, I will replace these antique fuses with ATC blade types, makes stocking spares less of a deal since the truck's main fuse box takes only ATC.

Yes, the safety switches can get dirty which increases resistance there too. Keeping them clean is important to proper function.

 

[Skinny]

Every switch on mine was misadjusted which at the beginning was a big time consumer trying to troubleshoot the entire system. Any new M1031 user should FIRST adjust and ohm out the switches before doing anything else in the governor system.

My second point to this post is...TWO FUSES??? I don't recall mine having two fuses. I had exactly what you described as a garbage rusty glass fuse in the driver side utility box panel which I replaced with an all weather ATO blade fuse holder. A much better solution to what was there. Where is the second fuse, in the OEM fuse panel or a military add on? I would have to check the EWD but I do not recall seeing another fuse.

 

[K9Vic]

The second fuse is coming off the fuse panel under the dash supplying the 12v to the system. I thin on the diagram on the door it is not marked as fused, but I believe it is lead 25 and E2 to ignition switch. Power is activated from the fuse panel when the key is on and mine was fused with the POS glass fuse. It was changed to a ATC fuse.

 

[Keith_J]

Yes, under the dash is the second fuse. And on mine, wire E1 was connected to the fast idle solenoid + cold advance solenoid so it was always running. This should have replaced the pink wire on the injection pump, a fat 10 AWG thing. I just disconnected it, that is just a neutral transfer case safety to kill the engine.

Another issue is the link between the injection pump and governor control. The block attached to the injection pump did not allow the throttle shaft to drop to low idle, it was idling around 900 RPM. I used a Dremel tool with abrasive wheel to knock the corner off, allowing the idle set screw to adjust idle speed to 625 RPM.

Now my truck is happy.

 

[jeffmule]

Perfect, although I am a bit late to the discussion. One BIG problem I discovered is the power supply to the governor is weak. First of all, there are two inline fuses, the glass tube type. These are weak, both of mine had resistance, the under dash one was over 1 ohm and had partially melted the solder inside the tube. Once those were fixed and the governor box had a good 13+ volts, the governor runs PERFECTLY. As a permanent fix, I will replace these antique fuses with ATC blade types, makes stocking spares less of a deal since the truck's main fuse box takes only ATC.

Yes, the safety switches can get dirty which increases resistance there too. Keeping them clean is important to proper function.

 

[jeffmule]

Yes, under the dash is the second fuse. And on mine, wire E1 was connected to the fast idle solenoid + cold advance solenoid so it was always running. This should have replaced the pink wire on the injection pump, a fat 10 AWG thing. I just disconnected it, that is just a neutral transfer case safety to kill the engine.

Another issue is the link between the injection pump and governor control. The block attached to the injection pump did not allow the throttle shaft to drop to low idle, it was idling around 900 RPM. I used a Dremel tool with abrasive wheel to knock the corner off, allowing the idle set screw to adjust idle speed to 625 RPM.

Now my truck is happy.

Half of my Governor linkage was laying in the valley with that block, lock nut and bolt. Probably why mine started idling better. How does that block go back on and is the linkage two pieces?

 

[deank]

I will see about getting pictures on mine for how the block is mounted ( you should be able to see where the cold advance was hitting it) the linkage is 2 pieces so the throttle cable can open and close. The acuator pushes and pulls by itself when engaged. It has a heavy spring inside that would make stepping on the accelerator harder to do if the link was one piece.
Best pic I have on my phone.