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M35a2 clutch ?

eagle4g63

Well-known member
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OK so I have searched and concluded I needed to look in the inspection plate under my trans. Yesterday on the way home it became very hard to shift gears.....the clutch wasn't letting go all the way, not to be confused with slipping. I have driven many stick shifts and know when a clutch is going out due to wear....this wasn't it. My clutch always let out real close to the floor not at the top of travel, and you always had to push it to the floor to totally disengage it.

Well what I found inside the bell housing is that one of the 4 fingers on the pressure plate is not out (touching the throw out bearing) it was like it is still pushed in. Anyway this morning I couldn't get it to disengage and couldn't put it into any gear while the motor was running. So again researched and found a bit of info just no conclusive answer.

So, I have concluded that I need to drop the trans and replace the clutch(or at least the pressure plate). Do I need to replace everything, pressure plate, clutch disc and throw out bearing. If so do I also need to have the flywheel resurfaced? Like I said the clutch never slipped at all and was just fine until yesterday when this happened. I also read about some other bearing on these that I don't think I have ever seen on a car or regular truck clutch.

Last question, where is the best place to get these? I noticed c&c equipment has a package for I believe $350ish. Pressure plate, clutch disk and throw out bearing.....any good?
 

eagle4g63

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This is the clutch from C&C, is the six puc that much better?, is it worth buying that separate and then the pressure plate? It seems to me that the clutch disk isn't the problem right now but the pressure plate is messed up. I did figure that if I have to change the pressure plate may as well do the disk also so I don't have to take it apart again soon(maybe soon maybe a year from now but why gamble)
 

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resqur

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I agree with 73m819....if you have it apart you might as well do it all. I have mine apart now and I'm going to replace it all, parts from Saturn. I had the flywheel resurfaced to avoid any problems down the road.
 

SCSG-G4

PSVB 3003
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Check with Erik's in California and on e-bay. The replacement pressure plate has three fingers. There was a thread on here several weeks ago where one of the four arms broke near the pivot point - that one had pictures! Pilot bearing is a standard 3/4 inch oil impregnated bronze bearing and should be replaced at the same time - should be available at any heavy duty truck parts store. I've paid as little as $125 for a new pressure plate on e-bay, and less than that for the clutch. Just gotta look.
 

eagle4g63

Well-known member
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Location
North/west Indiana
That sounds like what mine might have done, I have the 4 finger pressure plate in there now and one of them is just in there loose.

Erik's wants just over $200 for the pressure plate.
 

eagle4g63

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North/west Indiana
Also, I know I know, no pics......but in my defense my crappy(can I say that) camera wouldn't take any that are clear enough to see through the inspection plate.

However, I promise that when I do take things apart I will post pics of the damage.
 

eagle4g63

Well-known member
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Location
North/west Indiana
I need HELP!!!!

I bought the whole clutch kit and installed it. hooked up the linkage and absolutely NO PEDAL. I read about adjusting the arm's and linkages and everything else......

I switched from a 4 finger clutch to the new 3 finger clutch....the fingers aren't even close to the throw out bearing!! I could stack 2 throw out bearings in there. Anyway I thought about the arm adjustment(the main one on the side of the throw out bearing shaft) so as to rotate the shaft bringing the bearing closer to the fingers, however the fingers look like they won't have enough travel to disengage the clutch? Anyone understand what I am saying? They look like they are very close to the clutch plate itself. Was I suppose to adjust the fingers first? And if so how?
 

eagle4g63

Well-known member
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North/west Indiana
Here is a pic(horrible I know) Maybe you can see what I am talking about.

It has about 1/2" between the throw out bearing and the fingers.

If you can imagine as I explain......the housing shaft that the throw out bearing rides on(the end of it) and the splined shaft...where they meet(one ends and the other keeps going) is where the fingers are pointed at, if I adjust the throw out bearing shaft so as to push past that point will the bearing fall off if it were the main shaft housing?
 

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btcoutermash

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I know when I did mine, I had to readjust the throwout bearing forks pivot arm shaft relative to the splined arm that attaches to it. I adjusted it per the TM and then obvoiusly had to set the pedal free play per the TM also. The plined arm to the pivot shaft was wayyy off.
 

eagle4g63

Well-known member
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48
Location
North/west Indiana
Well, I went out and rotated the arm on the side of the trans so as to bring the throw out bearing closer to the fingers on the pressure plate. Made the pedal free play adjustment and tried it out. It seems to be working ok, pressure plate doesn't bottom out as I had thought it might. Apparently these are a lot different than the 4 finger pressure plates. Like you said I moved the arm a huge crazy amount!!!

Anyway, whoever the bone head is that put the dang gas pedal assembly in the way.....I would like to choke the every lovin'...........

Long story short, it is pitch black out and getting colder so I wrapped up for the night, just need to put the floor pans and the step back on then I can take it out for a long drive to make sure. Preliminary driveway tests seem to be ok.

Thanks to everyone that put in your input into my problem.
 
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