m35a2 Fuel Fiter

[AZDeuce]

Gentlemen:

I'm sure somewhere on this site is a list of part numbers that are innerchangable for us civilians, but due to the slow results of my dial-up webtv, I have had no luck n finding it........DOH!

So I throw myself at your mercy, and ask if someone can post the pertinent information I seek.

I'm looking for the part numbers for the PRIMARY, and SECONDARY fuel filters, that would work with NAPA, if that is an option. I live out in the "sticks" but I do have a NAPA within 5 miles of me.

The oil filter numbers would be nice if somebody could post those also.

My truck is a 53 REO, that was updated to M35A2 specs, probably at the unit level. My Primary fuel filter is just behind the radiator, and below the generator/alternator at the right front of the truck. The housing is about 10-12" long, but the filter is only about 5" tall, and supported by a spring. Is this the correct Primary filter & housing for a M35A2, or is this the old housing, from when the truck was a "gasser"? Or are they the same?

Thanks in advance for your help/input

 

[Westech]

http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&tid=10


there ya go. this is my years of work.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Napa fuel 3511primary and 3512secondary and oil is 1133.

 

[Warthog]

The primary filter does ride on the spring. The bottom half of the canister is used to catch any water in the system. I have a diagram from the TM at work. I will post it tomorrow.

You cab cross reference the Napa numbers to Wix numbers For the fuel filters add a 3 to the front of the number and the oil filters get a 5 in the front

Napa --- Wix
3511 --- 33511
3512 --- 33512
1133 --- 51133

Some people say to use a different gasket but I have had no problems making them fit.

Warthog

 

[cranetruck]

AZdeuce, the primary fuel filter is also a water separator, that's why it has the extra housing. I would recommend that you get the element from Memphis Equipment, it costs more, but can be cleaned and reused and also fits perfectly, the NAPA version has a different center hole and the fit/function may be compromised.

 

[Warthog]

Here is the diagram of the primary filter. Yes the factory filter is a better fit but sometimes you have to make do with what you have.

 

[AZDeuce]

Gentlemen:

Thanks for the replies, and information, I ordered new filters from Desert Deuce, but they haven't arrived nor have I received notification that my order was accepted..
...DOH!

I may just clean out all my filters, and cannisters and reuse them until the new stuff arrives, as I'm hoping to take the Deuce to the Papago Rally next weekend. We'll see how this all works out.

Again, thanks for the info and I'll stick it in my "Deuce" file.

 

[dabtl]

I keep chiming in with the jatonka spin on primary. It is heads and shoulders better than the stock primary. Try it, you will like it.

 

[jmh4x4]

dabtl,(and others) your persistance has paid off, I already ordered the oil and fuel spin on kits from jatonka and I my EUC hasnt even been cleared yet.

 

[deuceman51]

I have complete filter sets for $33 with all correct gaskets.

 

[dabtl]

dabtl,(and others) your persistance has paid off, I already ordered the oil and fuel spin on kits from jatonka and I my EUC hasnt even been cleared yet.

You will not regret it, I believe. After putting the primary fuel filter adapter on two of my trucks, working on a third that a friend bought without it is very frustrating.

As Bjorn pointed out the two types of filters mean you may or may not be getting a filter that works and even if you do get the good one, you have to be careful in the assembly to make sure it works. Too many years of 19 year old kids doing maintenance works its wonders, for sure.

deuceman51 has the proper filters, but more importantly, the proper gaskets. Using the NAPA numbers you get at times gaskets which are just a small amount off the needed size. So be careful with that.

 

[AZDeuce]

I plan on adding the spin on filters at all locations eventually, just for the convienence, like was quoted above, the stock filter cannisters are a PAIN to get re-sealed, been there, apparently going to be there again.

I've had the Deuce almost 4 years now, and have done NOTHING to it, due to being out of work for over a year and a half with cancer - the Lord healed me though, I'm now almost 2 years cancer free - WOO-HOO!

Between that, and the fact I've been finishing up all my gun projects, and hoarding ammunition (the currency of the new millineum/"change") thanks to obammageddon upsetting my time schedule,. Im just about broke. But pretty soon I hope to shift my attention and meager finances back to my Deuce, and the M37 I have awaitig restoration (it runs...that's a good start).

I just had my transfer case disintergrate in my M1009 that was a BUNCH of money to have rebuilt, but since I have a new engine and rebuilt transmission from before I got sick, I figured a new/rebuilt transfercase was a good investment, as the CUCV is my work vehicle.

Hopefully after tax time I can get back on my feet, and put some TLC into the Deuce. I have EVERYTHING but the winch itself for a winch upgrade. I plan on the spin on filters,
lockouts on both the front and intermediate axles, and possibly civilian air-ride seats. I also want to get the beast up on jack stands and go through the brakes, bearings, and seals, and install new dust boots.

I got the truck from Mark Blair, t's registered as a 53 Reo, but t's been updated to A2 specs with an air-shift transfer, and a "C" turbo whistler. I added 395 85r 20s on stock rims, some say it's unsafe, but others are running them in this configuration with no problems. So far they've been the best investment made to the truck. They made her "come alive".

I'd like to get wider rims, but I don't like the solid one piece types, as they require a machine to mount the tires. I like the Budd Safety Rims, I have all the tools to mount/dismount them myself, so I can fix a flat in the middle of the desert if necessary.

I like the custom 3" wider rims (I believe it was) SERMIS made, but I have no welding skills. Wish somebody would start making these (hint, hint).

Anyways, that's my plans for the Deuce so far, I want to make some bed modifications, but that's a story for another time. I hope to have her at Papago on Sat 01-24-09.

Later - AZ Deuce

 

[Racky]

Here are the filters I used Just make sure that you keep the primary filter centered on the cups.

Primary fuel Filter Wix # 33511
Secondary fuel filter Wix # 33512


Hope this helps
Racky

 

[Firefighter1303]

Hey Guys My truck has Remote fuel filters that were instaled before I got the truck and they are FRAM Screw on type filters like on normal passenger vehicles. Is that normal?
​

 

[dabtl]

I do not know if it is 'normal' but someone cared enough to make the effort. Good purchase.

 

[m16ty]

I'd like to get wider rims, but I don't like the solid one piece types, as they require a machine to mount the tires. I like the Budd Safety Rims, I have all the tools to mount/dismount them myself, so I can fix a flat in the middle of the desert if necessary.

You don't have to have a machine to mount one piece rims. They are easier to mount/dismount than the stock rims IMO. All you need is a couple of tire spoons. They are hard to get the bead to seat sometimes but there are tricks to that too but won't say too much about it because some people will deem it too dangerous .

 

[Maxwell1815]

Hey Guys My truck has Remote fuel filters that were instaled before I got the truck and they are FRAM Screw on type filters like on normal passenger vehicles. Is that normal?
​

sound good except for the Fram part....they use the cheapest filter media.

 

[paulfarber]

Fram gets a bad rap from some guy who posted on the internet when he took one apart.

Most of the time people complain about the cardboard bottom and glue. They then tell stories that the cardboard comes apart and the engine blows up, killing all small children in a 3 block radius.

The fact is that FRAM filters are just as good as any other filter. Many engineers have debunked the cardboard claim with facts and the jist is that:

1. cardboard is paper.
2. filter elements are paper
3. If cardboard is so bad (ie it melts in the presence of oil) then ALL paper based elements are bad for the same reason.

I'm sure there are 'parts snobs' that only use Mobile 1 or Royal Purple 110% synthetic oil and change it every 100 miles these guys are usually the loudest and least informed. Youtube is full of insta-engineers that have had NO problems with the FRAM filter till they opened one up.

OK, run with that.

Where are the youtube videos of all these 'disintegrated' FRAM fitlers? Its a myth like GL5/MT-1 lubes insta destroy brass parts.

 

[DUG]

Fram gets a bad rap from some guy who posted on the internet when he took one apart.

Most of the time people complain about the cardboard bottom and glue. They then tell stories that the cardboard comes apart and the engine blows up, killing all small children in a 3 block radius.

The fact is that FRAM filters are just as good as any other filter. Many engineers have debunked the cardboard claim with facts and the jist is that:

1. cardboard is paper.
2. filter elements are paper
3. If cardboard is so bad (ie it melts in the presence of oil) then ALL paper based elements are bad for the same reason.

I'm sure there are 'parts snobs' that only use Mobile 1 or Royal Purple 110% synthetic oil and change it every 100 miles these guys are usually the loudest and least informed. Youtube is full of insta-engineers that have had NO problems with the FRAM filter till they opened one up.

OK, run with that.

Where are the youtube videos of all these 'disintegrated' FRAM fitlers? Its a myth like GL5/MT-1 lubes insta destroy brass parts.

THREE block radius? Come on man, I could see one block or two, but killing all small kids within THREE blocks? That's a little hard to beleive.

 

[shootiniron]