m35a2 winch help

[89deuce]

i have a m35a2 wo/w and am going to pick up a winch for it for next to nothing i am only getting a winch nothing else were and what else do i need to make it operational thanks

 

[aboonski]

The PTO, driveshaft and operation lever that sits next to the driver; also the frame extensions which is where the winch is cradled into the front bumper area of the truck.

 

[Recovry4x4]

And the hard to find shouldered bolts to mount the winch.

 

[89deuce]

were can i get the pto and operation lever

 

[503m715]

I sent you a pm. I just went through this.

 

[rockman]

You need gasket shims for mounting your PTO. Try Sam Winers in Akron Ohio..ask for Robert Z.

 

[jayjetseck]

any idea on cost for a pto, driveshaft, levers? i have everything else

 

[jwaller]

any idea on cost for a pto, driveshaft, levers? i have everything else

pto will be the most $. anywhere from 100-400. 1-300 for the rest of it. also try and get the data plate for the cab floor. those are tough to find sometimes.

 

[jayjetseck]

anyone know how to contact samwiner?

 

[DanMartin]

There are also a few more small parts like the 1/4" plate welded to the bumper corner plates (spacers), some shearpins (DO NOT USE A BOLT!), and various hardware (trust me, you'll want to replace most of the fasteners if you get them with the parts). There are a few 1/2" and 5/8" bolts that are 11" long and expensive to get in grade 8. Plan on spending a Franklin on grade 8 hardware.

Make sure you ask for a multifuel PTO shaft if you have a multi. Gasser ones will require some grinding to make work on (some) multis. The Multi shafts are necked down to clear the bell-housing IIRC.

Also make sure you are not hitting any of the fuel lines near where they cross over behind the PTO input of the winch (near the IP).

Also, consider doing the seals and fluids on the winch *before* you put it on the truck...will save you a lot of effort later on. Way easy to do on a bench. Mike at OD Iron sells the kits. Same for the PTO itself...change the seals/boots while it's out (can't do it on the truck without draining the tranny, and it *will* leak if the seals are bad).

One thing I learned...the length of the studs used for attaching the PTO to the tranny is critical. They are short for a reason (clearance). You'll understand when you get it. When buying a PTO, see of you can get the studs with it, or get the proper length ones (someone will need to measure them, I don't remember off-hand) before trying to install it. I think they are 3/8" by 1.25"?

If you have all the parts and the fasteners handy, and ready to install, it could be done in a (full) day if you know what you are doing. Plan on two days and a few runs to the hardware store if this is your first time.

Hope that helps a bit....

 

[crazyplowboy]

anyone know how to contact samwiner?

Hope this helps Sam Winer Motors - Electric Winches, Mechanical Winches, Hydraulic Winches

 

[kipman]

Dan Martin, the studs for the pto was good advice, had mine off three times, would be hard if the studs were a little longer.

 

[cbvet]

I got the winch bolts & the PTO gaskets from NAPA.
Eric
CBVET

 

[rumplecat]

This is what you need!

This is what you need, I picked up the entire unit over on the M715 Zone, one of the guys there had it on his 715. Except for the PTO and the extensions being "slotted" it looks complete.
James

PS: I need the linkage for the PTO to Cab including the in cab lever.

 

[DanMartin]

That's a good start, but trust me, you'll want to replace all of the mounting fasteners, as they will assuredly be rusty and/or bent.

Note also that the bolts that hold the winch to the extensions are custom shoulderd, so keep those. They are hard to find. Make sure you mark them as you take them out because I think there are at least 3 sizes/lengths there and it's hard to tell how they go back in after-the-fact. IIRC there are 6 to each side that hold the winch to the mount.

That winch looks in good condition. Clean it up and paint it, throw some new cable on it and you'll be happy.

 

[jimmcld]

My TM34P calls for ring spacers between the winch brackets and the winch. The sholder bolts go through these spacers. Does anyone have the dimentions of these spacers?

Jim

 

[DanMartin]

Mine just had locking washers....

*shrug*

I just assembled everything lose at first, then tightened everything up starting at the winch and moving down to the brackets and bumper. Seemed to work out fine with no "spacers" needed.

The bumper mounts for the winch trucks have about a 1/4" spacer welded to them...are you referring to those? You could use a non-winch bumper bracket and just make up the difference in washers or add your own spacer. There was also at least 1 place where I had to double up washers under the rear mount for the frame-to-winch bracket mount to take up the difference caused by the frame extensions.

If you can point us to a page in the TM that you are referring to, that might help us to understand your question better...

 

[jimmcld]

Thanks for the reply Dan. It's figure #217, item #17, in the 34P. Washers would probably work but I would like to know how thick they are supposed to be. I can't seem to figure out why you need a sholder bolt with a lock washer and flat washer on one side and a spacer on the other. What does the sholder tighten up against? Is it the spacer or the winch housing?

Jim

 

[DanMartin]

I'm not in a place where I can look at the TM right this second, but I would just double up some thinner washers if needed.

Again, I didn't need them, but I had the brackets connected loosely to the frame when I dropped in the winch, so it all tightened up nicely without needing any spacers. I would imagine that if it's not specified how thick the spacers are, it means to use ones that are tick enough....