MikeR
New member
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Hi folks,
The starter on my M37 was grinding since I bought it last fall. This week no joy - turns out the nose of the housing was cracked
This looks to be an Autolite PS1194 12V. Not finding much on the web for a replacement. All suggestions are most welcome. Thanks in advance.
Here is a post from 2011 from http://www.g741.org/PHPBB/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3766. Seems to be some good info about adjusting the gear.
"Lifer, you may be aware of something that I'm not with this issue; so I'm not doing this post in an effort to say you are wrong. In fact if you know of proven possibilities that do work, I for one would love to hear them so we can check into them; we have tried many possibilities, some the ones you mentioned, and others that even looked remotely close over the years and have found that they simply don't work. The ones we have tried are not set up correctly with respect to the drive engagement with the ring gear. All will bolt up and make you think this is the ticket; however when you step on the pedal, you quickly learn otherwise. The original M37 starter drive is spun into engagement with the flywheel ring gear by mechanical means when the pedal is depressed. The linkage is adjusted so that the drive and ring gear are already into mesh before the electrical circuit is closed to activate the starter motor. The drives on all or most of the options you listed above simply push straight into mesh without the mechanical spin motion to get absolute tooth engagement; thus when the electrical contacts meet to put the starter motor in motion, you get gear clashing most every time. Once in a while it hits just right and it works ok when it does, but you will get clashing much more often than you will good hits is what we have found.
We have found the 1 starter from the NAPA Wilson line that works and works super good; (I have the part# at the shop) that is absolutely the only option we have ever found that is a bolt on replacement in 12-volt. It does not use the foot pedal engagement, but is a solenoid driven unit similar to a current day starter; however the solenoid pulls a mechanical linkage setting up mechanical motion almost identical to the way the foot pedal does it on the original. It has the correct set up that spins the drive into mesh via the solenoid movement before contact is made to activate the motor just like the original does. The only other option I've seen that works is to have the original armature rewound for 12-volt. The problem with that is there are precious few sources that can or will do it anymore. I'm sure the service is out there, not sure of the cost, as our local guy we could rely on for that service is long gone."
The starter on my M37 was grinding since I bought it last fall. This week no joy - turns out the nose of the housing was cracked
This looks to be an Autolite PS1194 12V. Not finding much on the web for a replacement. All suggestions are most welcome. Thanks in advance.
Here is a post from 2011 from http://www.g741.org/PHPBB/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3766. Seems to be some good info about adjusting the gear.
"Lifer, you may be aware of something that I'm not with this issue; so I'm not doing this post in an effort to say you are wrong. In fact if you know of proven possibilities that do work, I for one would love to hear them so we can check into them; we have tried many possibilities, some the ones you mentioned, and others that even looked remotely close over the years and have found that they simply don't work. The ones we have tried are not set up correctly with respect to the drive engagement with the ring gear. All will bolt up and make you think this is the ticket; however when you step on the pedal, you quickly learn otherwise. The original M37 starter drive is spun into engagement with the flywheel ring gear by mechanical means when the pedal is depressed. The linkage is adjusted so that the drive and ring gear are already into mesh before the electrical circuit is closed to activate the starter motor. The drives on all or most of the options you listed above simply push straight into mesh without the mechanical spin motion to get absolute tooth engagement; thus when the electrical contacts meet to put the starter motor in motion, you get gear clashing most every time. Once in a while it hits just right and it works ok when it does, but you will get clashing much more often than you will good hits is what we have found.
We have found the 1 starter from the NAPA Wilson line that works and works super good; (I have the part# at the shop) that is absolutely the only option we have ever found that is a bolt on replacement in 12-volt. It does not use the foot pedal engagement, but is a solenoid driven unit similar to a current day starter; however the solenoid pulls a mechanical linkage setting up mechanical motion almost identical to the way the foot pedal does it on the original. It has the correct set up that spins the drive into mesh via the solenoid movement before contact is made to activate the motor just like the original does. The only other option I've seen that works is to have the original armature rewound for 12-volt. The problem with that is there are precious few sources that can or will do it anymore. I'm sure the service is out there, not sure of the cost, as our local guy we could rely on for that service is long gone."
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