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M816 rear winch roller drain??

zebedee

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Has anyone made any mods to the side roller top bolt plate to allow or stop collection of water?

I think a plastic cap would work but a little flimsy for the location with all the 'action' and heavy traffic that area receives...
roller pond.jpg

Possible a groove in the underside of the square bolt plate???
 

Ferroequinologist

Resident railroad expert
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MDMorgan is going to fill his with some type of grease, to keep the rain out. Then you can just push through the grease to get to the grease fitting.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do on mine yet.
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
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Can you drill into the side of the cap UNDER the plate, put a grease fitting there, then just fill the top recess with epoxy.
 

aarron81

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i pumped at least 2 or 3 tubes of grease in mine and still have water coming out and the side rollers are seized up. got to find a way to free them up.
 

zebedee

conceptualizer at large
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Plan 'A'??

Ok, I HAVEN'T BEEN TO THE TRUCK YET!, but this is an initial thought after looking at the TM over breakfast.

roller pond drill.jpg

... after this weekend is over, I'll pull stuff apart to see if this is a go.

AARRON - mine are all siezed too, so I imagine there will be some pressing involved. If I cant hammer the pin down and out, maybe I'll use the boom with down pressure and a long pin/drift whilst tickelling it a bit with a big a$$ feather......
 

Csm Davis

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Also before you go beating on them hook your truck to a tree or big truck off to the side so you get a good load on the stuck rollers and pull they will probably spin.
 

zebedee

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M816 rear winch "Roller ponding" - Fix

Had forgotten to post these from some time ago. My solution was to extend the grease fitting then caulk the void:
001.jpg002.jpg003.jpg004.jpg005.jpg

I/Fittings. II/Fittings installed in roller. III/Roller test fit in frame. IV/Cap in place. V/Masked nipple for painting (Nipple will be yellow)

Another point: Grease capacity is enormous. And wastefull. There ought to be a 'communication' sleve below the top taper roller bearing #15 and the bottom taper roller bearing #13 [Pic in post #5] to blank off the massive void in each roller. Carefully measured though so as not to preload the bottom bearing.


NOTE. When disassembling, index parts for location and orientation. When I reassembled mine, I hadn't done this (I thought that this was too low tech) but now even though all the rollers partially spin by hand but bind in a couple of spots. Not yet loaded and run as Jeff suggests, I am still rebuilding/modifying the level wind - but that's another story.... But loaded operation will probably 'seat' everything and fix the issue.
 
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