• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M997A2 is now in my fleet

spankybear

Well-known member
882
910
93
Location
WA
I have just picked up a M997A2 and have some questions. But first let me tell you the condition. It is a non runner so I have no idea if it runs. My gut feeling is it will but some things need to be address as they all do before I attempt to start. It is missing the trans oil dipstick and tube. It is missing the top bracket on the alternator and the nut on the bottom mounting bolt. Missing the ignition switch. The oil in the engine was drained. It is missing the power steering filter. It is missing the belt. Missing what I believe is the cold advance switch (right rear in head). There is no coolant. The water pump will not turn. Missing a couple of bolts in the exhaust flanges. Missing one head light, the front amber turn signal lights, the rear tail light lenses. Of course the demil items... but I didn't know they also removed the cab pass through (bulkhead) doors. It is missing the both X doors. The heater valve is frozen. It is also missing the fuel tank drain plug but that's a story for later on...

The body is in excellent condition except the damage done buy the yard gorillas. The paint is really thick on the box and flaking off... the paint on the body is good. There is no damage on the hood as so many of these are. The engine is one of the Melton rebuilds and the trans also looks to be rebuilt as it is painted. While I know this means nothing the odometer say 400 miles. I do suspect that could be correct. It was painted in 2011 and had an IROAN done with the ODO reading of 24 according to the data plate. I do not believe the truck was issues or if it was it didn't see much use. It has all of the NBC tubes, adapters, and hoods in the back all in unopened packages. It has the spreader bar and 2 stretcher slides. One was stowed and the other laying on inside. I have an extra slide. When I removed the oil drain plug to see what would come out the little amount of oil that did was still amberish and not diesel motor oil black. I believe that it only has the 400 miles on the truck (well since the last refresh) But that is just my thought as I know the odo reading could be very wrong.

I hope to have all of the parts where to try and start the truck next weekend. Mainly the trans dipstick and tube and fuel tank plug. The truck did have the tank plug in when I picked it up. I have a retired friend with a big F350 with a powerstroke and a flatbed trailer. I asked him if he wanted a road trip down to Barstow. He said yes and off we went. Little did I know that this truck is long in the tooth with over 400,000 miles on it. It ran amazingly well and had plenty of power. It pulled up the hill with ease and plowed thought the head winds. Mind you this was the day Hillary blew through. One thing I have noticed about old fords is they have electrical issues. This truck was no different. The fuel gauge always point to full... He uses the trip odo to fill up. Well pulling the HMMWV up the hills and with a head wind caused havoc with the fuel mileage... We ran out of fuel in the middle of the Central Valley. According to Siri the nearest station with diesel was 27 miles away. Wondering what we were going to do I say "I bet there is diesel in the Humvee." There was 10 gallons in the tank and in the process damages the drain plug. While it may have not been the freshest fuel I didn't see any water and it got us out of the pickle. I am sure the drain plug is much cheaper than a tow bill. We made fuel stops more frequently needless to say.

It's home and had a good time... even running out of fuel!
 

Attachments

Last edited:

spankybear

Well-known member
882
910
93
Location
WA
After that wall of text and bad grammar... to my questions.

Is there anyone who has a complete M997 box. I know the rear doors are hens teeth I have plans on making my own. I have an idea on how I am going to make the doors. I also want to make the steps. The only things is I would like to have some picture of the steps. Also what are the steps made out of. I would assume they are made of of Aluminum. I am thinking the "frame" is made out of 1/4 plate. If someone has a complete M997 can you tell me this?

Also I would like to have some picture of the pass through bulkhead doors. I would like to make those also.

Thanks in advance.
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
3,572
3,475
113
Location
Brooklyn, NY
There is another on the forum with that top, and he built the doors and described the process.

Please post more detailed and less “zoomed in” images of the engine bay to allow for better examination of what is missing.
 

frauhansen

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
276
538
93
Location
switzerland

spankybear

Well-known member
882
910
93
Location
WA
There is another on the forum with that top, and he built the doors and described the process.

Please post more detailed and less “zoomed in” images of the engine bay to allow for better examination of what is missing.
Yeah I read the thread and good infor there. Nothing about the rear steps though. I would like to know what "frame" is made of. I believe it is 3/16 or 1/4 plate aluminum...

The only things missing in the engine bay is the alt bracket, a couple of exhaust flange bolts, the serpentine belt, the cold advance switch, the filter ELEMENT for the power steering ,the sensor cup, fording valve, and CDR of course, and the trans oil dipstick. Oh and engine oil if you want to count that. That it as far as I can. I will take more pictures but have been busy.

Maybe I missed something but I don't think so. I have all of the above in the mail or I have on hand. Except the fording CDR... I only have a "normal" CDR form my CUCV days. Plus I was unable to find a fording CDR on line but didn't look to hard. I am more interested in the steps .
 

BKubu

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,763
1,160
113
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
After that wall of text and bad grammar... to my questions.

Is there anyone who has a complete M997 box. I know the rear doors are hens teeth I have plans on making my own. I have an idea on how I am going to make the doors. I also want to make the steps. The only things is I would like to have some picture of the steps. Also what are the steps made out of. I would assume they are made of of Aluminum. I am thinking the "frame" is made out of 1/4 plate. If someone has a complete M997 can you tell me this?

Also I would like to have some picture of the pass through bulkhead doors. I would like to make those also.

Thanks in advance.
John Murray (TNJ Murray in Dover, DE) has a complete ambulance body. Give him a call.
 

AAVP7

Well-known member
217
262
63
Location
Dortmund, Germany
Go and ask for Arnd (https://www.steelsoldiers.com/members/aavp7.76284/) here in this forum.
Hi also manage a german HMMWV forum and owns a fully self restaurated and fully aquiped 997 ambulance.
Here I am ! First, congrats to that M997A2 !
I can gladly help and provide you with pics and measurements. Problem is just that I am currently moving my whole collection from one garage to a new one, and at the moment the M997 is parked crammed to a wall with lots of stuff in front of it, so I can´t access the rear doors.

I hope to finish the move around mid-September, and then I can get to the rear of the ambulance again.

P.S.: In the meantime, be sure to get some noise protection for your ears. I´m still amazed how much more noisier the M997 is than my slantback. In the slantback, I do short Autobahn trips without my Peltors, but in the ambulance, any trip longer than 5 minutes leaves you deaf without noise protection.
 

spankybear

Well-known member
882
910
93
Location
WA
Here I am ! First, congrats to that M997A2 !
I can gladly help and provide you with pics and measurements. Problem is just that I am currently moving my whole collection from one garage to a new one, and at the moment the M997 is parked crammed to a wall with lots of stuff in front of it, so I can´t access the rear doors.

I hope to finish the move around mid-September, and then I can get to the rear of the ambulance again.

P.S.: In the meantime, be sure to get some noise protection for your ears. I´m still amazed how much more noisier the M997 is than my slantback. In the slantback, I do short Autobahn trips without my Peltors, but in the ambulance, any trip longer than 5 minutes leaves you deaf without noise protection.
Thanks so much! I don't think i'll be starting the fab of the rear doors and steps right away. Firs off is getting it running. Then I have the M1152A1 I am also working on.

Funny thing you mention hearing protection. Normally I find a plethora of Skillcraft pens in these surplus trucks... This one I only found a single pen but a ton of ear plugs.
 

Dieselmeister

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
193
271
63
Location
Flagstaff, Az
Have you tried turning over the engine with a breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft nut? I do that on any "unknown" equipment I get. The fact that it shows low milage, but has a Melton rebuilt engine make me wonder what happened?
 

spankybear

Well-known member
882
910
93
Location
WA
Have you tried turning over the engine with a breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft nut? I do that on any "unknown" equipment I get. The fact that it shows low milage, but has a Melton rebuilt engine make me wonder what happened?
Are Meltons that bad? I haven't done that yet and should. I'll know more this weekend.
 

Dieselmeister

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
193
271
63
Location
Flagstaff, Az
Are Meltons that bad? I haven't done that yet and should. I'll know more this weekend.
I was not thinking that Meltons were bad. More along the lines of something happened to the original engine, to be replaced, and the replacement engine is now also missing parts.

Btw, congratulations on getting an ambulance. I have been looking at them as well, just no room for one right now.
 

spankybear

Well-known member
882
910
93
Location
WA
Dang she will not start... No fuel and it's upstream of the filter. I have been reading about a "check valve" that causes issues. Where is the check valve? It could also be the fuel pump but I can feel a pulse when i put my thumb on the fuel line. I think it may be a little weak but I do feel it. Was hoping to get her running this weekend
 

spankybear

Well-known member
882
910
93
Location
WA
Spent today replacing the water pump. Found our why it was frozen... A RTV blob ring squeeze out had broken free from the backing plate and wedge the impeller. Guess the milspec for RTV is bigger the gob better the job.

Went looking for the check valve... sure as Shinola I found it... also discovered that the little bit of hose that connects the check valve to the fuel line was missing. I think I found to no fuel issue. I used a hand vacuum pump and now have fuel at the filter. Amazing!!
 

MrGoodwreck

New member
20
8
3
Location
WA
Amazing how well it runs with ALL of the fuel lines hooked up. Runs like a champ!:)
To quote the famous Harry Hogge..

" Im going to give you a fuel line, that will hold an extra gallon of gas... I'm gonna shave half an inch off of you, and shape you like a bullet." :p
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks