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Manual Glow Plug Controller Walkthrough
I'm making this as I have time, so please bear with me.
I will be marking the pictures and updating them, along with a list of parts & a step-by-step.
Parts:
Ebay Parts:
HMMWV Glow Plug Distribution Box Interface Harness P/N: 12379865 $42.50
24V 200A Automotive Car Relays Starter Relay $15.00
Mil-Spec Vehicle Momentary Switch Push Button Assembly (Bradley Fighting Vehicle) Part # 12308572 $10.00
Wire Ring Terminal Copper 8 AWG Gauge 5/16" Connectors (x4) $8.00
16 gauge Automotive Wire Black 20' $8.00
Car Rubber Grommet Firewall Hole Plug Set $10
Amazon Parts:
InstallGear 8 Gauge 25ft Power/Ground Wire True Spec and Soft Touch Cable $10.00
Split Loom Heat Shield $9.00
(2) 16 Gauge Ring Terminals
(2) 16 Gauge Female Spade Connectors (preferably water-proof)
8 Gauge Barrel Fuse
Zip Ties
Dielectric Grease
Instructions:
1. Open the dog house engine cover, the battery box, and the hood.
Take the Glow Plug Harness and lay it out along the factory one, exactly the same way. You can use zip ties to hold it in place.
2. Remove existing glow plug connectors from glow plugs.
Now would be a great time to replace the fried plugs, I replaced the whole set because of my control box sending 24v continuously to them. I used Kascar for plugs (Glow Plug Engine Assy HMMWV #5614017 $65.20), and you might want a puller if your plugs are swollen (Glow Plug Removal Tool #GPRT $65.65). Additionally, perhaps take the time to install a grounding harness if you haven't done so already although not necessary for this fix (Ground Kit, 4 Wire, A, B, C, D, #535-A1 $56.16).
3. Plug the new harness onto the glow plugs.
There is no specific order, as there is no firing sequence due to not being spark plugs.
4. Find the spot on the drivers side engine firewall for the relay. There is a bolt that holds the existing harness to the firewall. Use that one. No grounding will be necessary as the momentary switch will provide ground actuating the relay and sending 24v to the glow plugs.
5. Cut the metal plug end off the new harness. Strip each wire, then use the Wire Ring Terminals and attach them to the stripped wires, 4 wires to each terminal. It is a good idea to use some Dielectric Grease on all exposed wiring, as this will stop it from corroding the connection.
6. Route the 8 Gauge Power Wire and the 16 Gauge Ground Wire inside the Split Loom from a hole in the battery compartment to the relay, following the existing wiring harnesses. Avoid any direct contact with engine or moving parts, and keep it tight within the frame so it doesn't snag anything off road. Use the zip ties to route it neatly. The Split Loom protects the wires from any shorting or burning on the hot parts of the engine.
7. Cut a small 4"-6" off the 8 Gauge Power Wire. Attach the Barrel Fuse to the end of the wire coming in to the battery compartment, then attach the small piece you cut off onto the other side. Attach the 8 Gauge Ring Terminal to the 8 Gauge Power Wire coming from the Fuse. Also attach the 16 Gauge Ring Terminal to the 16 Gauge Ground Wire. Connect the Positive 8 Gauge Ring to one battery's positive terminal. Connect the 16 Gauge Ring to the other battery's negative terminal.
This gives you 24v. If you connect them both to the same battery you will only have 12v, which won't activate the relay.
8.
Pictures:
The reason why I made this post to begin with.
Button close up.
Button install. Used a rubber hole plug with the middle cut out. This is an existing hole on mine with a plug in it. Works great.
Relay wiring. 87 is 8 gauge, 24v from the battery. 86 is 24v coming right off of 87. 85 is a ground wire coming off of the momentary push button switch installed in cab. 30 is the secondary glow plug harness I installed. Cut the end off, attach all to 2 ring terminals, non specific (not spark plugs). I will redo the 24v lead connection, it's not good just hanging out there.
Relay install location.
Messy battery connections. Please note, you will need to connect the 24v lead to one battery's positive, and the negative lead going to the push button switch to the other battery's negative. Otherwise, you'll have 12 volts going to the relay which won't energize it (24v relay). Additional note: Put a fuse from the battery to the 24v lead. Still waiting on the one I ordered. Fire is possible if you don't take this precaution.
Secondary glow plug harness zip tied to original.
Shot of the 8 gauge 24v lead and the smaller negative lead that goes to one side of the push button switch. Used some heat shield on it.
Good shot of the grounding harness I made grounded to the rear of the block. Attaches to the generator, starter, firewall gauge ground and glow plug controller ground. Not necessary for the manual glow plug controller setup, but highly recommended for HMMWV's.
Another shot from the passenger side of the 24v lead routing.
Passenger side pic from the cab with the cover removed. Original glow plug harness leads zip tied together.
I'm making this as I have time, so please bear with me.
I will be marking the pictures and updating them, along with a list of parts & a step-by-step.
Parts:
Ebay Parts:
HMMWV Glow Plug Distribution Box Interface Harness P/N: 12379865 $42.50
24V 200A Automotive Car Relays Starter Relay $15.00
Mil-Spec Vehicle Momentary Switch Push Button Assembly (Bradley Fighting Vehicle) Part # 12308572 $10.00
Wire Ring Terminal Copper 8 AWG Gauge 5/16" Connectors (x4) $8.00
16 gauge Automotive Wire Black 20' $8.00
Car Rubber Grommet Firewall Hole Plug Set $10
Amazon Parts:
InstallGear 8 Gauge 25ft Power/Ground Wire True Spec and Soft Touch Cable $10.00
Split Loom Heat Shield $9.00
(2) 16 Gauge Ring Terminals
(2) 16 Gauge Female Spade Connectors (preferably water-proof)
8 Gauge Barrel Fuse
Zip Ties
Dielectric Grease
Instructions:
1. Open the dog house engine cover, the battery box, and the hood.
Take the Glow Plug Harness and lay it out along the factory one, exactly the same way. You can use zip ties to hold it in place.
2. Remove existing glow plug connectors from glow plugs.
Now would be a great time to replace the fried plugs, I replaced the whole set because of my control box sending 24v continuously to them. I used Kascar for plugs (Glow Plug Engine Assy HMMWV #5614017 $65.20), and you might want a puller if your plugs are swollen (Glow Plug Removal Tool #GPRT $65.65). Additionally, perhaps take the time to install a grounding harness if you haven't done so already although not necessary for this fix (Ground Kit, 4 Wire, A, B, C, D, #535-A1 $56.16).
3. Plug the new harness onto the glow plugs.
There is no specific order, as there is no firing sequence due to not being spark plugs.
4. Find the spot on the drivers side engine firewall for the relay. There is a bolt that holds the existing harness to the firewall. Use that one. No grounding will be necessary as the momentary switch will provide ground actuating the relay and sending 24v to the glow plugs.
5. Cut the metal plug end off the new harness. Strip each wire, then use the Wire Ring Terminals and attach them to the stripped wires, 4 wires to each terminal. It is a good idea to use some Dielectric Grease on all exposed wiring, as this will stop it from corroding the connection.
6. Route the 8 Gauge Power Wire and the 16 Gauge Ground Wire inside the Split Loom from a hole in the battery compartment to the relay, following the existing wiring harnesses. Avoid any direct contact with engine or moving parts, and keep it tight within the frame so it doesn't snag anything off road. Use the zip ties to route it neatly. The Split Loom protects the wires from any shorting or burning on the hot parts of the engine.
7. Cut a small 4"-6" off the 8 Gauge Power Wire. Attach the Barrel Fuse to the end of the wire coming in to the battery compartment, then attach the small piece you cut off onto the other side. Attach the 8 Gauge Ring Terminal to the 8 Gauge Power Wire coming from the Fuse. Also attach the 16 Gauge Ring Terminal to the 16 Gauge Ground Wire. Connect the Positive 8 Gauge Ring to one battery's positive terminal. Connect the 16 Gauge Ring to the other battery's negative terminal.
This gives you 24v. If you connect them both to the same battery you will only have 12v, which won't activate the relay.
8.
Pictures:
The reason why I made this post to begin with.
Button close up.
Button install. Used a rubber hole plug with the middle cut out. This is an existing hole on mine with a plug in it. Works great.
Relay wiring. 87 is 8 gauge, 24v from the battery. 86 is 24v coming right off of 87. 85 is a ground wire coming off of the momentary push button switch installed in cab. 30 is the secondary glow plug harness I installed. Cut the end off, attach all to 2 ring terminals, non specific (not spark plugs). I will redo the 24v lead connection, it's not good just hanging out there.
Relay install location.
Messy battery connections. Please note, you will need to connect the 24v lead to one battery's positive, and the negative lead going to the push button switch to the other battery's negative. Otherwise, you'll have 12 volts going to the relay which won't energize it (24v relay). Additional note: Put a fuse from the battery to the 24v lead. Still waiting on the one I ordered. Fire is possible if you don't take this precaution.
Secondary glow plug harness zip tied to original.
Shot of the 8 gauge 24v lead and the smaller negative lead that goes to one side of the push button switch. Used some heat shield on it.
Good shot of the grounding harness I made grounded to the rear of the block. Attaches to the generator, starter, firewall gauge ground and glow plug controller ground. Not necessary for the manual glow plug controller setup, but highly recommended for HMMWV's.
Another shot from the passenger side of the 24v lead routing.
Passenger side pic from the cab with the cover removed. Original glow plug harness leads zip tied together.
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