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Master Cylinder Removal

XJChief

Member
32
0
6
Location
Kailua, HI
Does the mount the master bolts onto have to be removed as well? I've got all the lines and the bolts holding the master off but can't free it from the mount. Also, any helpfull hints on removing and replacing the master would be appreciated! Search of the forums didn't turn up much.

Thanks!
 

sermis

Active member
1,844
17
38
Location
Temple, TX
I removed my master not too long ago. The mount does not need to be removed. There are 4 bolts. I had 3 out and it would not move. I could not see the 4th bolt. After scraping off the dirt and grease found a 4th bolt. Turned it sideways and it came right out with no problems.
 

XJChief

Member
32
0
6
Location
Kailua, HI
Thanks for the fast response. Other than removing the bolts from the master to the mount, the lines, and those four bolts do I need to do anything else to make that mount move? I disconnected the brake linkage to remove the plunger too. Just need to get that mount to swivel! I don't have to remove any of the clutch linkage do I???
 

sermis

Active member
1,844
17
38
Location
Temple, TX
I did not remove or loosen the mount. Just unbolted the master and rotated it and it came right out. Don't remember if I undid any clutch linkage.
 

houdel

Active member
1,563
9
38
Location
Chase, MI
Check the TM section for TM 9-2320-361-20 pages 8-26 through 8-29 and TM 9-2320-209-30-3-2 pages 13-78 through 13-86. Between the two manuals you should be able to figure it out OK.
 

Crazyguyla

Active member
817
124
43
Location
Altus, OK
I had to remove the fitting for the brake line. Is the master cylinder not moving or are you having trouble getting it out? Removing the master cylinder is almost as bad as a brain teaser. It only comes out a certain way. I had to remove my mount to drill out two broken bolts, that thing is a chore to remove.
 

XJChief

Member
32
0
6
Location
Kailua, HI
I don't have the manuals... I just can't get it out. W'e're removing the four bolts that hold the mount on but that also requires removing the clutch linkage to remove the fourth bold. Looks like it needs to rotate down to free the master. What a pain in the a$$.

Well, I guess I'll continue to tear the truck apart piece by piece.
 

JDToumanian

Active member
1,655
14
38
Location
Phelan, CA
All relevant manuals for an M35A2 are available for free download right here on Steel Soldiers in the Technical Manual section.

I'm a pretty competent mechanic, having done all my own work for every vehicle I've ever owned over the last 20 years, and I can't imagine working on one of these trucks without the appropriate TMs... You'll be surprised how much information is in them.

Jon
 

hndrsonj

Senior Chief/Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
7,584
363
83
Location
Cheyenne, WY
Completely agree. If someone does not have the manual they should not be working on a 13,000 pound single brake system truck that drives down the highway. [thumbzup]
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
1,808
113
Location
GA Mountains
I can have the master cylinder out on the ground in 15 minutes. You needn't dismember the truck at all. If you have a winch, remove the PTO lever. Other than that is just the linkage and line. As the other members have said, you really should invest a few moments of your time download the manuals.
 

houdel

Active member
1,563
9
38
Location
Chase, MI
houdel said:
Check the TM section for TM 9-2320-361-20 pages 8-26 through 8-29 and TM 9-2320-209-30-3-2 pages 13-78 through 13-86. Between the two manuals you should be able to figure it out OK.
My bad. I should have said "Check the Steel Soldiers Technical Manual section for"
 

acetomatoco

New member
2,198
7
0
Brings new life to my periodic ranting about getting the manuals and reading them in bed for a few weeks before scraping knuckles and killing some poor innocent pedestrian......ACE
 

Blythewoodjoe

Active member
985
56
28
Location
Blythewood, SC
Hold the phone, I just replaced mine with a good take out and it was it was a killer. I discovered that the take out had two "plugs" at the rear on the sides. This would not let it go into the hole behind the master so it you could swing it down and out. I removed one of the plugs and it could then go back far enough to get it out. The one I had on my truck was a newer model with no plugs and it came right out.

Hope that's the problem. That one bolt up top and next to the frame rain is a bugger. If I had a universal joint for my socket I think it would have helped a lot.

Joe Trapp
 

jasonjc

Well-known member
5,326
289
83
Location
Gravette Ar.
Technical Manual ??? Whats thats??? :p

All kidding aside I spent 5 years in the Army working on helicopters and YOU DID NOT GET CAUGHT WORKING ON ONE WITH OUT THE TM. AND IT HAD BETTER BEEN OPEN TO THE RIGHT PAGE. OR ALL HE LL WOULD COME DOWN ON YOU.

If you can take the time to ask the ?? you can take the time to down load a TM. After all alot of people hear have spent alot of time to put them hear for you. USE'EM!!!!


AND A BIG THANK YOU TOO ALL OF YOU THAT HAVE UPLOADED THE TM's HEAR THANK YOU THANK YOU
 

XJChief

Member
32
0
6
Location
Kailua, HI
I didn't realize the manuals were available for download. I have a set on order that I guess I can cancel.

That said, I replaced all the unnecessary parts we removed and by removing the plugs on the back we were able to slide the master out. It was hung up on the plugs and the brake lines running along the frame crossmember. Bled and now I have brakes. Better than before because they'll lock up which they never did before.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
1,808
113
Location
GA Mountains
Good deal Chief! There is a wealth of information in the TM section. Navigating some of the manuals can be a challenge at times until you get them figured out. Here is my tidbit of information when dealing with the deuce TMs. Download the all the TMs in the 361 series. That would be such as TM 9-2320-361-**. There are 5 total in this series. All of the TM 9-2320-209-** are a previous series. You can use and keep these as reference and if you can't find it in the 361s go to the 209s. Problem with the 209s is there are so many books and volumes. Another great series is the 209 series from 1965. I'm pretty sure Cranetruck and myself refer to these more than any. You won't find the 1965 version of the 209s in PDF (yet), only in paper. Also if you ever have a chance to get TM 9-8022, get it. It's from the gasser era but has some great info you won't find in the later manuals. Hope this helps clear the turbid TM water for you.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
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Location
GA Mountains
I use both. If I have it on the computer, I just print the section(s) I need then when I'm done, I use them to clean up. Works decent.
 
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