shackwrrr
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Had a friend drop off his 004 for me to diag and fix, he had it at a generator shop for 6 months and all they did was unplug and remove the special relay box. I removed the regulator/exciter and found T2 completely fried and the inside of the box charred from the internal fire. After failed searching for a regulator and lots of research I have broken down the diagram enough to hook up a SX460 regulator for a cheaper fix. Since the SX460 is a 220/110 regulator we decided to rewire the generator into a zig zag config. I have broken down the diagram enough to find the 2 wires that feed 208v now(220 after the zigzag), 2 wires to the field, and 2 wires from the field flash relay. The voltage feed and field wires are easy and will transfer over to the new reg easy, the difficulty starts with the field flash. In the factory regulator the field flash wires are tied directly to the field wires (feeding 24v when the speed switch and start switch allow). My question is, will the 460 tolerate 24v applied to the field circuit before it starts outputting its own power? Or do I need some sort of protection like a diode or relay to break contact? In the instructions it mentions removing the field wires from the regulator before flashing the field, this is why I am asking.
Here is my diagram where I have broken down the wires going into the exciter/regulator box.
The wires with the red dots are from one of the current transformers, I assume that this is so the regulator can keep an eye on the load. These are not needed with the 460.
The black wires on L and M are the 208 feed, these originally fed the regulator with power so It could do its thing, you can see these feed directly into T2, the transformer that was fried on mine. After the conversion, these 2 pins will be the 220v input to the regulator to sense voltage output.
The yellow wires are the F1 and F2 wires, These go directly to the field coil on the genset, they will serve the same purpose with the new reg.
The blue wires are the 24v feed from the field flash relay, if you follow the blue lines you can see where these wires are directly connected to the field wires, this is the reason for my post.
The last 3 wires are mostly unused, T just remains a ground, and B-A on J9 were the original 110v sense wires for the regulator. (original regulator set a goal of 110v per phase, 208v was just a byproduct of phase overlap.) Since the new regulator has a goal of 220 total, these pins are not used. (I will lose parallel unit operation, fine voltage adjustment, and remote control functions due to this). I could however set up the SX460 to read 110v and keep these, but using the 220v input seems more accurate.
Any input on my conversion idea is appreciated.
Here is my diagram where I have broken down the wires going into the exciter/regulator box.
The wires with the red dots are from one of the current transformers, I assume that this is so the regulator can keep an eye on the load. These are not needed with the 460.
The black wires on L and M are the 208 feed, these originally fed the regulator with power so It could do its thing, you can see these feed directly into T2, the transformer that was fried on mine. After the conversion, these 2 pins will be the 220v input to the regulator to sense voltage output.
The yellow wires are the F1 and F2 wires, These go directly to the field coil on the genset, they will serve the same purpose with the new reg.
The blue wires are the 24v feed from the field flash relay, if you follow the blue lines you can see where these wires are directly connected to the field wires, this is the reason for my post.
The last 3 wires are mostly unused, T just remains a ground, and B-A on J9 were the original 110v sense wires for the regulator. (original regulator set a goal of 110v per phase, 208v was just a byproduct of phase overlap.) Since the new regulator has a goal of 220 total, these pins are not used. (I will lose parallel unit operation, fine voltage adjustment, and remote control functions due to this). I could however set up the SX460 to read 110v and keep these, but using the 220v input seems more accurate.
Any input on my conversion idea is appreciated.