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MEP-006A Won't start. A little help please

wildman100

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SAINT PETERS / MO
The good:
I picked a 1982 MEP-006A last weekend. New batteries, 400 hours on the clock, looks good, trailer made an 800-mile trip no issues. Allis Chalmers 3500 6 cylinder turbo diesel.

The bad:
The generator will only run on starting fluid.

Know conditions:
1) 1-amp fuse was blown at the fault lights. Replaced fuse and hit the reset. A contractor closed and the fault lights all lit up.
2) Primary fuel pump will run with the main switch in run and battle switch on.
3) Fuel to the day tank and no power to the day tank solenoid. I assume tank is full.
4) Loosened the timing mark cover to the IP and fuel started coming out.
5) IP solenoid can be heard clicking while operating dead crank switch and assuming it is kicking in and out.
6) I loosened a line to injector #2 and it is dry as a bone even when cranking to start.


I have read on the internet, that a check ball may be in the return line to the ip.
My unit does not have a tee where the return line enters the pump. I am not sure if this iinformation is correct since I don't see a check ball list in the tm's.

I am not sure what the next step is at this point. A little direction would be useful.

Thank you.
 
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wildman100

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SAINT PETERS / MO
Checked the day tank and it was full. Emptied all the fuel filters and day tank. picking up a secondary fuel filter in the morning. I think the part # for a Wix is 33117 and "o" ring #15131.

Will remove IP solenoid and clean up governor linkage.
 

wildman100

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SAINT PETERS / MO
Good advice-I've read though the TM including the section(s) on trouble shooting a no start / no run condition. Can't bleed the system until I get some out put from the injector pump. Currently acting as if the solenoid is shut. No fuel output.
 

212sparky

Well-known member
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Monroe/ Ohio
On my MEP-004A the return line out of the pump was completely clogged with crud and would not let any fuel to the injectors. once i cleaned out and later replaced the fitting it fired right up. Might want to check it out.
 

wildman100

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SAINT PETERS / MO
It was one of the items I checked out today. I removed the check valve at the return line to the IP. There was no fuel in the return line line but the ball valve seemed a little stuck. I cleaned it up and stuck it back on. The valve appears to be there to allow fuel from the injector pump to be sent to the return line when the pressure over comes the check valve.

What I really think is I have enough fuel entering the IP. When I open the line at the input to the IP, it just drip a little.
 

PeterD

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Jaffrey, NH
I'm not sure what Injection Pump this engine uses... But, A fellow nearby had an MEP-006 with a no-start just like yours. I gave them the manuals for it, then forgot about the generator for about a year. Later, I went back and it was gone, and I asked if they'd gotten it running. The answer was 'yes, we had to replace the injection pump'. Unfortunately I don't know anything else about it however.
 

wildman100

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SAINT PETERS / MO
Update: New filters, clean lines and removal of check ball, still no go. Defiantly have fuel to the injector pump, but no output. Even right at the pump body.

Could the strainer be clogged at the injector pump input? Everything I have seen so far indicates clean fuel supply and no rubber bits in the pump. The fuel was very old and yellow that came out of the fuel supply.


I bought a manual on the pump, but it looks a little intimidating.

My option are:
1) Order parts from US Diesel, TX and try to get the pump to work. Parts a tools +/- $100.00. 10 hours of my time free.
2) Buy a rebuilt unit from surplusman for $680.00. No idea when it was rebuilt.
3) Have the pump rebuilt by an online store for $350.00-450.00 plus shipping.
4) Have the pump rebuilt by a local shop in downtown St Louis for $650.00.

Any suggestions?
 
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m38inmaine

Well-known member
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Maine USA
I would opt for option #3 with alot of research/feedback on the company you choose. IP's are complex and require special tools, etc and better left to those who are familiar with them. I have replaced 4 6.2 pumps and always had good luck with online rebuilds. It was the same price difference here as well, the local wanted alot more money.
 

wildman100

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SAINT PETERS / MO
Thanks for the input. I removed the injectors and the injector pump today. The pump was full of fuel and not one drop in any of the supply lines. I thinking bad pump all the way.
 

1942 Mk1

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Corinth, Vermont
Is this a Roosa-Master IP? My MEP-004 had the same symptoms and it was a stuck metering ring (internal). I sent it to diesel shop and they in turn sent it for rebuild. The bill was over $900.00 but was indeed the problem, unit started and ran good after.
 

wildman100

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SAINT PETERS / MO
Indeed it is a Roosa-Master IP. Gald to hear I have a little confirmation of the diagnostics. This is the first military and first diesel I have owned and molested (ok worked on). It is a lot different than than the small and big block corvettes I've tinker with.:D
 

derickjbrown

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estacada OR
well, the #1 reson for this problem would be the emergency shut off is stuck in the off position. open the top of the injection pump and push the shut off lever towards the front of the engine, then put the top back on and start. you dont have to remove all of the stuff attached to the top just remove the screws and lift straight up. make sure the shut off lever is safty wired back to the rear of the engine.

this lever is pushed to the off positon when the engine is off. its pushed there by the electric cylenoid. or the emergency shut off. even if your pump was bad some fuel would get to the injectors.

like i said the is the #1 problem for these not to start. i have rebuilt over 400 mep005 and 004s and alot of 006. never counted the 006s
 

wildman100

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SAINT PETERS / MO
Thanks for the suggestion. I suspected it was something "stuck " in the pump. After reading the manuals on the injector pumps, I have elected to have the pump and injectors re-built. In the mean time its belts, fluids and hoses.

The pump is due back on Monday.

Any other suggestions to sliding the pump onto the pump shaft without damaging the cup seals?

Thanks
 

wildman100

New member
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Location
SAINT PETERS / MO
Alright an update. Injection pump was rebuilt by a local company...$605.00. I am good with that. Injectors needed nozzles add another $540.00 Not so happy with that but ok. Installed the pump and injectors last weekend. The MEP-006a runs great. I had a little problem with priming the system but it all worked out. I changed the oil and oil filters (filters were military spec and I think they were original). and all is well. I need to do a little electrical trouble shooting as it only runs with the battle switch in the on position.

Thing to consider:
1) I doubt the injectors needed $540.00 worth of work.
2) I would bet the shut off or something was stuck in the pump but at this point I will never know.
3) The cup shaft seals were fairly easy to deal with, go ahead and buy the $20.00 tool to install the seals. makes the job very easy.
4) Watch the "dead crank" switch. It keep going into the off position(no doubt due to operator failure).
5) The throttle and the governors both need to be in the middle to full on position in order for the engine to run. I asked the pump re-builder to set the governor at 1800 rpm. It was not and I am not sure they could do that without the pump on the engine.

Thanks for the input in helping get this "no start" problem resolved.
 
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