MEP-016B stability?

[Isaac-1]

Well I picked up the MEP-701a / MEP-016B from government liquidation yesterday, it just needed oil, fuel and a new (pair of) batteries to get it running. It is making power (tested with a 1500 watt heater only so far) and it seems everything is running fairly good. Now down to the question, according to the TM the frequency should be set using the throttle upon start up, I set the freq at 60 hz and if I apply my 1500 watt heater test load it will maintain frequency (in fact by listening to it you would not know anything had happend), for now I am using the convenience outlet so this load does not show on the amp meter and does not run through the main breaker. The frequency will however slowly drift over a minute or two regardless of load from about 58 - 62 hz, I am wondering if this is normal for these units, or if there is something I need to address. (note from a cold start the frequency will tend to drift up 4-5 hz in the first minute, then this slow drift up and down begins), I only have about 30 minutes of run time since picking it up so it may just need to get the gunk out of its system. I have posted this same question over on the smokstak generator board, so hopefully someone either here or there will have some experience with this model.

Ike

p.s. I suspect this unit did not sit up for too long as the military 24 volt battery still had about 6v in it, but does not seem to take a charge (5 hours on my 24v charger at the 2 amp rate only brought it up to 14v).

 

[brianrbull]

Frequency is directly related to engine speed. Also these sets fall into what is known as"Utility" sets....+/- 6-10% (I am not 100% sure of the exact number) A "Precise" set has tighter frequency, voltage recovery tolerances....That being said a few cycles either way should not hurt much

 

[Isaac-1]

I ran the generator for about 4 hours last night, powering a 12,000 btu air conditioner, light and a couple of hand held power tool in my shed, it never missed a beat, however when I did go out to check on it the frequency had crept up 3-4 hz each time, so I tuned it back down to 60 hz.

Ike

p.s. I notice a lot of metal on metal clanking sounds when this unit cranks up (it goes away within a second or two of running), is this normal on these little 1 cylinders?

 

[Kwai]

I ran my mep701 over the weekend powering the ac in a rv trailer. The speed on mine never moves unless I change it. Maintained a steady 60 hz over 24 hours of operation. (except when it ran out of fuel).

Mine doesn't have the metal clanking sound.

Anyone know where to find parts for these?

 

[ken]

I would dissemble, clean, and lube the throttle linkages and gov linkages. Espacillay if they have CARC paint on them. Mine kept slowing down. After a little maintence it holds 60 pretty well.

 

[maybefixit]

A lot of equipment is not too frequency dependent. Most of the gear that has a switch on it for 110/220 is designed to operate at 50-60Hz so they can use (most of) the same equipment in US and Europe. I only know of a few things that would care about frequency being 'off' of 60Hz by very much. A Hammond B3 organ with its synchronized rotor drive motor might 'see' the fluctuations but it wouldn't hurt it, just give it a 'warble'. I'd figure on +/- 5% being ok for my use.

 

[William F]

Mep-701a

Hi Guys,

I just picked up my MQJ-33 Trailer 2 weeks ago. 501 and 175 hrs respectively on the units. Both of mine run well, and produce power. I have not tried to change the power from 120 3ph on one and 120 1ph on the other - and like you,have been using the convenience outlet to power a heater and get about 40% load. My load does show up on the ammeter,and my freeq is not fluctuating after 5 minutes of run time (warmed up) - make sure the knob is pulled all the way out - if the button is pushed in the center of the knob, it goes to idle. I suggest getting the manuals and reading the section on adjusting the governor.

Both of the units had batteries and old fuel and oil - I put some frsh fuel in and have been running them one hour at a time to get out the bad stuff. I added "Seafoam" fuel treatment - guy at NAPA recommended it, and it does seem to help- they are neither smelly or smokey, so I think I am doing well. Today, I ordered a desulfating battery conditioner charger-24v -By Battery Minder - both batteries charged well enough to start the units even before the charger - and these are some OLD batteries.My suggestion if you don't have a 24v battery charger is 2 car batteries in series, with a 12v charger on each.

I had some clanging and ringing sounds too, but soon discovered it was the stuff on the trailer or the tool box - once secured, they sound just like diesel engines!

My problems:
1) The battery charger circuit on one is not outputing any juice - probably need to replace the Voltage Regulator
2) Top ASK fan on one of the units is nonop - fuse and Cap for it are good- will check wiring this weekend.
3) Phase-phase meter on the 3ph setting shows nothing between L2 and L0, but between L1 and L2 or L3 and and L2 it - it shows proper potential
4) The notes on the outside of the ASK indicate to tap L1 and L2 for 240 1ph,but the manual shows L2 as grounded when in 240 1ph - so I think the placard on the machine is right - question is, what is Neutral? L0 is usually always grounded - L3?

Once I solve some of the smaller problems, I will be changing oil filters/fuel filters/air-filters. Will replace oil with heavy synthetic (30w). Looking at the air filter, I can tell that it is not one NAPA is going to have (at least not readily!) - this will serve as our standby generator for the house.

Any ideas on the VR for the charging circuit? Probably not an easy-to-source part - does anyone know if it is servicable?

Isaac: I assume you have found the operation and Maintenance manuals for the MEP-016s? If anyone is interested, I canpost some pix.

Cheers,

Bill

 

[Isaac-1]

I can only help with a couple of your points,

My top ASK fan often stops working due to moisture getting inside, removing the top cover and turning it over usually causes the water to drain and it will work again for a couple of months, I have also used compressed air to dry it out.

On the wiring diagram in the manual and selection voltage issue there are multiple things going on here, first off there are mistakes in the manual diagram for some voltages. As to the grounding for 240V single phase, they are talking about pure 240V with one leg grounded not household 120/240V split phase. Officially there is no neutral brought out on L0 in 240V mode, but in reality it seems many of these units are wired for neutral to be brought out on L0, you will just have to check yours to see. There is a way to add a 120V neutral by adding a jumper wire if you need to, but it will cause the voltage reconnect switch to no longer function correctly. (This modification is needed on MEP-016a and MEP-016c models). For most household situations it is probably better to connect in 120V single phase only mode unless you have specific need for 240V, this avoids problems with load balancing and increased potential to burn out the generator. If you do wire it up for 120/240V split phase that only gives you about 1500 or so watts on each 120V leg and only about 16 amps at 240V which will not run many household 240V appliances.

Air and fuel filters can be found on ebay from assorted sellers, sometimes at better prices than others, supply seems limited so I suggest stocking up when you find a deal.

If you need a part try southernautomotive.com they were supplying replacement parts for the Army to keep these running, pricing may be high though.

Ike

p.s. I know the silicone rubber breaker cover on many of these units is torn, I was lucky when I bought mine it had an intact cover, unfortunately it tore turning off the breaker last weekend. I have found a replacement online after a bit of digging. The original is a Mil Spec Hexseal HE-1050 digikey and perhaps other places have them for around $27, there is also a slightly lower grade Hexseal CT-1050 at available at about half the cost from Mouser.

Also when searching for fuel filters try looking for these Davco brand numbers 103-516 or REPLACEMENT #101151 these were from some I bought off ebay a few months ago

 

[Isaac-1]

In case you have not found it in the parts manual yet the battery charging voltage regulator is NSN 2920-01-282-8522 with these part numbers associated:

REGULATOR, ENGINE.....
12720 (2N114)
301-0736 (44940)
84-13183 (30554

the last number looks to be available on ebay for about $100

 

[William F]

Hi All,

Just went for my first oil change in the 701A today. Not sure why, but it takes forever to drain the oil once the valve is turned. I heated up the engine for 5 minutes like the manual suggests, but it still barely trickles out. When it finished, I had captured maybe 2 quarts (including what came out of the filter) - it has a 3 quart capacity, and it was full when I started - has anyone else seen this type of slow oil drain? I thought perhaps there was a hornets nest or some other FOD up the neoprene hose that reuns out the bottom of the trailer (used a coat hanger to root around in there) but nothing. Suggestions? Similar observations?
Cheers, Bill

 

[derf]

Disconnect the hose at the motor and see if it drains better there.

 

[steelypip]

Mud daubers in the hose?

 

[PeterD]

Or possibly the crankcase ventilation hose is plugged. I've seen that happen on small engines and it creates interesting problems both the oil drains very slowly, and as well you get oil consumption and leaking.

Course it could turn out to be a bad valve too!

 

[steelypip]

Or could be crankcase gunk at the valve inlet, now that I think about it.