So at last I have finally gotten a bit of time to start working on my Mep-701a I picked about 3 weeks ago. So I got power connected to the DC system and it appears to be working properly. The starting circuit works fine I can hear the hour meter running in the run position and the aux fuel pump works when the switch is in the aux fuel position.
I have a couple questions for you guys that own these units I am not familiar with it at all I have a mep 005 and an 003, and just picked up this one along with an 002. Oh I was searching around the forum and went to the TM section however I could not find the TM's for this machine. Do any of you guys have a nice little link to them or perhaps I need to hit up the google and look out there was hoping for a PDF file of them like the 003, 004, 005.
Any way I have been slowly going through things and noticed that when the start is engaged the fuel shut off solenoid is not contracting to allow the injection pump to start sending fuel to the injector. So I figured well maybe its a bad solenoid so I pulled the connector off of the solenoid and put my multimeter on it and moved the starter switch to the start position and saw no voltage across the pins of the connector. This brings me to my first question.
When the starter switch is switched to the start position and the starter engages should the fuel shut off solenoid be contracting or does the motor have to crank for a bit before this happens? I have not yet cranked it over for more than about 2 seconds since I have just been testing the electrical system at this point then going to move on to adding oil and fuel. Hopefully it will just start up I dunno though
So I decided to open up the control box just take a peek at the starter switch. Wow lot of stuff in there much more than the bigger units. So I decided to take some wonderful pictures for you guys that have these to compare to and tell me if anything looks amiss. So the voltage regulator looks rather open and there is a large screw on connector on the right side with nothing attached to it. I do not see the cable that would usually have this connector so I assume that it is not used in this machine is this correct? Again I have no other units to compare mine to. How does the internals of the control box look to you guys just from the photographs? I also noticed that the top FUse I think its F1 is soldered to the two plugs on the front and then the one below It I think its F2 is not hooked to anything just like the spare is not hooked to anything. Is this how its supposed to be?
Next question when taking the sides off this unit most of the screws came out no problem. A couple of them however the blind nuts just spin in the square tube frame. This is a horrible design because you cant get the freaking screws out. So I just ground the heads off the bolts with the grinder. Are these blind nuts rivited in somehow? What are they made out of aluminum like the square frame tube? If it is im debating running a small bead around the collar to weld it to the frame so that I can put a torque to get these screws out. Or do you guys have a source for these and just drill them out and rivit new ones in? Really bad design in my opinion what if you were a soldier in the field and one of these things just spun on ya would be a major pain in the arse to get the panel off. So just wanted to know what your guys thoughts were on this. I posted a picture of one of the blind nuts with the ground of bolt I was talking about.
Thanks again guys in advance
Lee
I have a couple questions for you guys that own these units I am not familiar with it at all I have a mep 005 and an 003, and just picked up this one along with an 002. Oh I was searching around the forum and went to the TM section however I could not find the TM's for this machine. Do any of you guys have a nice little link to them or perhaps I need to hit up the google and look out there was hoping for a PDF file of them like the 003, 004, 005.
Any way I have been slowly going through things and noticed that when the start is engaged the fuel shut off solenoid is not contracting to allow the injection pump to start sending fuel to the injector. So I figured well maybe its a bad solenoid so I pulled the connector off of the solenoid and put my multimeter on it and moved the starter switch to the start position and saw no voltage across the pins of the connector. This brings me to my first question.
When the starter switch is switched to the start position and the starter engages should the fuel shut off solenoid be contracting or does the motor have to crank for a bit before this happens? I have not yet cranked it over for more than about 2 seconds since I have just been testing the electrical system at this point then going to move on to adding oil and fuel. Hopefully it will just start up I dunno though
So I decided to open up the control box just take a peek at the starter switch. Wow lot of stuff in there much more than the bigger units. So I decided to take some wonderful pictures for you guys that have these to compare to and tell me if anything looks amiss. So the voltage regulator looks rather open and there is a large screw on connector on the right side with nothing attached to it. I do not see the cable that would usually have this connector so I assume that it is not used in this machine is this correct? Again I have no other units to compare mine to. How does the internals of the control box look to you guys just from the photographs? I also noticed that the top FUse I think its F1 is soldered to the two plugs on the front and then the one below It I think its F2 is not hooked to anything just like the spare is not hooked to anything. Is this how its supposed to be?
Next question when taking the sides off this unit most of the screws came out no problem. A couple of them however the blind nuts just spin in the square tube frame. This is a horrible design because you cant get the freaking screws out. So I just ground the heads off the bolts with the grinder. Are these blind nuts rivited in somehow? What are they made out of aluminum like the square frame tube? If it is im debating running a small bead around the collar to weld it to the frame so that I can put a torque to get these screws out. Or do you guys have a source for these and just drill them out and rivit new ones in? Really bad design in my opinion what if you were a soldier in the field and one of these things just spun on ya would be a major pain in the arse to get the panel off. So just wanted to know what your guys thoughts were on this. I posted a picture of one of the blind nuts with the ground of bolt I was talking about.
Thanks again guys in advance
Lee
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