MEP 802 w trailer. What’s it worth ?

[williamh]

I’m going to look a one and wondering what I should be looking for ? Other than running and putting our volts

 

[Guyfang]

Before you go, find out what type of set it is. Is It a PU, Power Unit? Or is it simply a trailer with a gen set on it. If it's a power Unit, you need three manuals in your hand to check it out. One for the gen set. One for the Trailer and one for the PU. If its a PU, there will be three data plates on the trailer/PU. They will each tell you what operators manual to look at. And having a parts TM handy is not a bad idea. If you THINK something is broken or missing. You simply look in your TM. If you shared with us what kind of "thing" it is, we could tell you what to take. Are you going to buy it right then and there, if you like it? If so, unless you are going to put it on a trailer and take it home, you are going to pull it. Knowing something about the brake system on that trailer would be good.

 

[williamh]

I don’t have access to the data plate on the trailer. It looks like a gen trailer

 

[williamh]

I could drag it home with the funvee but the F350 service truck should handle it

 

[Toolslinger]

I'll add just this as I'm no expert...
The TM's really are extremely good. They are however, enough to cure the worlds worst case of insomnia. If you're not used to the way the military wrote manuals, it takes some getting used to. I'm just finally getting comfortable with the 802a manual after having to replace half my wiring harnesses...
As Guyfang said, find out specifically what you're going to look at, beyond just the 802 aspect. Read as much as you can take from the archives here. It's easier in some cases to understand things when you're reading a post from someone else that doesn't know what they're looking at. The guys here are amazing at helping you understand things, but getting that base level is a steep climb.

 

[williamh]

I'll add just this as I'm no expert...
The TM's really are extremely good. They are however, enough to cure the worlds worst case of insomnia. If you're not used to the way the military wrote manuals, it takes some getting used to. I'm just finally getting comfortable with the 802a manual after having to replace half my wiring harnesses...
As Guyfang said, find out specifically what you're going to look at, beyond just the 802 aspect. Read as much as you can take from the archives here. It's easier in some cases to understand things when you're reading a post from someone else that doesn't know what they're looking at. The guys here are amazing at helping you understand things, but getting that base level is a steep climb.

I’m trying to find all the “bad” stuff to check for when I do my inspection.

 

[Guyfang]

That is a PU797A power unit.

PU TM: TM 9-6115-659-13&P
Trailer TM: TM 9-2320-392-14&P

THe operators TM has a PMCS listing. Thats the a document you might read.

 

[Digger556]

I’m going to look a one and wondering what I should be looking for ? Other than running and putting our volts

Biggest thing is missing parts. Many units have been decommissioned because maintenance removed a switch or pump. The other common reason for decommissioning lately is fuel leaks from the return lines or the injection pump feed lines. Both of these are easy fixes and no reason to avoid a unit.
You don't really need to know these generators well to spot missing parts, but it helps. Missing switches, loose wires, or open ports are easy to spot. Knowing the value of the missing parts will determine the value of your unit.

If it runs and makes power, you are mostly in the clear. You will still need to look for leaks, low fluids, etc. If it passes a load test, that almost guarantees a solid runner.

Value-wise, are you buying from auction or private sale: Auction price, I would not exceed $3000 before fees. This is subjective based on your need. My last win was MEP-803a PU with 338 hrs, and I think I got a great deal at $2600. I have see people bid pure junk to $6K. Private sale, expect to pay $3k to $5k around here.

 

[rickf]

If you are going to tow it any distance at any speed then go over the trailer well. Wheel bearing can be dried out, I have seen that many times and tires could be dry rotted. Look between the treads and if there are cracks do not tow it. Very good chance that tire will blow out. I had a CUCV that blew out three tires in two days, I took the last one off before it went. Then sitting in the yard in the hot sun it let go one day scaring the bejesus out of me and my neighbor. If radial tires are cracked, especially in the tread then get rid of them. You will also need tow lights for the trailer if you tow it.

 

[rickf]

I just noticed where you are from, I am going to bet that with all that is going on with the fires out there that any generator is going to go for top dollar, Military ones always seem to bring even higher prices.

 

[FarmingSmallKubota]

From your single picture 2 things i see are that it is missing hardware on the skin and the ones that are missing tell me its an older 802 without the captive nuts, also it has had a fuel leak by the looks of the staining on the case. One positive note is that side marker light on the side of the trailer might mean that it has gone through a reset or the trailer is newer.

 

[DieselAddict]

Have you called and talked to the person on the phone? What was your impression? Did they seem to know anything about the machine or the generators in general? Have they done any maintenance? Have they run it? Load tested it? The conversation should be very informative on what you should be willing to pay for the machine. I've had people drive 6 hours one way, passing by other options for less $$, to get one from me. In EVERY case they said the phone conversation was the deciding factor on who they wanted to buy one from.

Fuel leaks aren't normally a problem since its not unusual for the OEM lines to be cracked and toast. If the fuel lines don't look NEW, replace them. You'll be saving yourself a problem at a time when you can least afford to have one. The OEM well nut where the fuel comes out of the tank will eventually fail. Read all about the perm fix here - https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/ultimate-well-nut-repair.171091/

I tend to look at the exhaust joint between the manifold and the muffler to see if its clean and dry. A wet and nasty looking connection could be a sign of wet stacking.

Oil leaks?

Any signs of coolant leaks around the water pump? My advice there is to change the coolant no matter how new and put in low or (preferably) no silicate coolant. The water pump seals will thank you.

Paint busted off on fasteners, suggesting that things have been disassembled? Some observation here can help you spot if the seller is being honest.

 

[williamh]

Thanks. That’s all great advice. I figured if it wasn’t leaking something it ran out. I’ll be looking at it tomorrow , load test is going to be a large electric heater.