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MEP-802a Fuel Sender-need cross reference part or source

Milhouse

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Tilton, NH
I have a broken MEP-802a fuel sending unit, part #88-21162-1

Does anyone know of a cross reference for this? or a part that will work? I have been unable to find one. The 803a and 002a have different tanks so those would not work.
 

Milhouse

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Tilton, NH
I found that, but they are all military supply numbers,and no one sells them except in quantity, the tank must be used in other things, do you know of an aftermarket sender that will work in the tank? or a cross reference to a non military part number that might be available online?
 

CDR

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new york
I have a broken MEP-802a fuel sending unit, part #88-21162-1

Does anyone know of a cross reference for this? or a part that will work? I have been unable to find one. The 803a and 002a have different tanks so those would not work.
Mine doesn't work either
 

BadBrad1

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KOKOMO, INDIANA
Try directly contacting Beede Instruments. They have a product support forum. Maybe post a question on this item there...if anybody can cross reference it they can.

http://www.beede.com/xSupport.php

Looks like that switch is simply a magnetic reed switch in a piece of tubing...should be readily fixable with a generic switch (radio shack etc) soldered in in it's place
 
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m-35tom

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Try directly contacting Beede Instruments. They have a product support forum. Maybe post a question on this item there...if anybody can cross reference it they can.

http://www.beede.com/xSupport.php

Looks like that switch is simply a magnetic reed switch in a piece of tubing...should be readily fixable with a generic switch (radio shack etc) soldered in in it's place
it is not the switch for low fuel, it is the sender unit for the gauge. many parts for these units seem to not be available.
 

BadBrad1

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Oh you need the fuel gauge sender unit. I found this thread:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?101932-mep-003a-teardown-and-refurb/page5

I cut and pasted the relevant info here for you, that thread is worth a going through he did a awesome restoration.


"I managed to track down the fuel gauge. They are avail brand new. You buy the whole thing not just the dial. Rochester gauge still has them. Its model 8680. The guy i ordered from didnt stock rochester in the length i needed but had a different brand in stock.

http://www.fozmula.com/download/GLL4...l_Data_002.pdf

price he gave me was $44 + shipping. Seem a bargain for a brand new unit. My battery gauge is also so cloudy you can barely read it. Found someone on ebay with more than 10 of them all new. Only thing left i need to find is an oil pressure gauge in nice shape. I dont really want to use this one that that is all rigged on here by the former owner.

the place where i got the sender is www.jrscustomfab.com. the company makes fuel tanks so the guy stocks alot of these in both rochester and the other brand. length of the original unit is 14". mine should be on the way already. "


Maybe they still have some

The big auction site has some google Rochester 8680 gauge
 
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m-35tom

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i don't think that is revelant to the 802 which uses electrical sender and remote gauge. as the OP said the sender part # is 88-21162-1
 

BadBrad1

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i don't think that is revelant to the 802 which uses electrical sender and remote gauge. as the OP said the sender part # is 88-21162-1
Holy Crap!! I some how some how got this thread mixed up with another thread that was on a 002a ....sorry **** early onset dementia!!

My original response pointing to Beede instruments I believe to be valid as they were a original supplier for that NSN 2910-01-366-8985


http://enginefuelsystems.tpub.com/111/01-366-8985.htm


http://www.beede.com/Senders 0503.pdf
 
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zarathustra

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glasgow,ky
If you still have the sender unit you can fix it (depending on what's wrong).
I had two of 'em that had the shaft broken at the top -- just where it bolts to the top flange. That is easily fixed with a piece of aluminum or steel that is ~1/2 inch wide -- easily available at Home Depot.

BEFORE you take that piece off, measure the total length of the shaft so that you can get the correct dimension on the replacement.

I've also discovered that when either removing or installing the sender it is easier to take it apart (or assemble) it in place 'cause the flange and shaft interfere with the slanted body plate and the sender doesn't want to go in unless forced if one tries to install the pre-assembled unit. Taking it apart and assembling in place allows that unit to just slide right in with no worries or problems.

I just used a scratching awl to mark the correct position of the sender vis a vis the flange so that the float actually hung in the deep side of the fuel tank.

Assembling in place is not my idea -- I got it from an ex-marine who was a TQG generator guy in Afghanistan.

One other thing... these are 12 volt units, not 24 volt. That would mean that the gauge is specially made to absorb the other 12 volts.

I've seen some for the mep831a for sale on ebay from time to time -- they ought to be able to be adapted to the 802a

z
 
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zarathustra

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I looked up that autometer sender that Tom had found, and it sure looks like the ones from the TQG. All you need it to trim it to the correct size and you ought be good to go...
 

m-35tom

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One other thing... these are 12 volt units, not 24 volt. That would mean that the gauge is specially made to absorb the other 12 volts.


z
the sender is just a variable resistor, it does not care about the system voltage. it is the gauge that is designed for specific voltage. the sender is 33 to 240 ohms just like the original so i have no doubt it is exactly the same part.
 

kb3bf

Member
127
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16
Location
Howard County Md.

Amazon still lists this sender, but the arm on this fuel level sensor seems to be longer than what I have (MEP-802A, Libby, year 1994). Is this a good replacement or does the arm have to be modified?

One of the two senders I have (I have two MEPs) seems to stay in the high resistance range when mounted on the tank regardless of the the fact that it is full of diesel (it appears the float does not want to float). I swapped the two and verified that the gauges are working when the arm is moved back and forth. The sender is properly oriented on the tank when mounted. I took apart the two senders and could not find anything wrong with the bad one.
The arm moves freely and R varies from 30 to 250 Ohms. The float is solid plastic (or at least that's what appears to be).

Any suggestions why it wont float properly?
 

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CallMeColt

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What do you think about replacing the one found above with the arm with a sender unit from WEMA. WEMA Sender SSS.

Ohms are the same range. It is similar in construction to the other auxiliary pump/low fuel float. Looks to be MUCH easier to install as well.

Thinking of ordering one to try as it was hard to remove the OEM one... especially with it broke & sideways in the tank. Float arm is missing as well.

The only thing we'd need to figure out is the length needed. I suppose a 1/4in shorter than the low point on the auxiliary pump/low fuel float would be ideal.

Cost is about the same.

http://www.wemausa.com/sensors/level-FuelWater.shtml#.WxLjXiAh2M8
 
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