Hello I have an 802A I recently acquired and it seems to run decent but there is a lot of fuel I guess all over the engine compartment. ( please bear with me on this since I don't have a sense of smell fuel and oil ect are all very similar to me when there is just a fine coating) I haven't seen a leak though. I haven't spent much time in there yet as I'm also working a lot of hours and when I'm not working in buying more of these machines and going to get them. Lol. My question today is about the jack on the front. I guess my trailer is an M116A3. I would like to rebuild the jack. It wouldn't go up and down and when I got it to break loose the bottom part is separate from the top. The piece that holds the bottom part to the screw is in a few pieces but it does ride up and down the screw now. If I could find a replacement piece that holds the bottom leg and rides the screw I could fix it. I'm sure you all appreciate my grasp of all the parts names. I will get better as I read talk to you all and learn. Thoughts? Any one know where I could get the parts?
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Mep 802A
- Thread starter grywitt
- Start date
Jeepadict
Well-known member
- 468
- 678
- 93
- Location
- Round Mountain, NV
1. Your safety chain hook will rest perfectly inside the first chain link that's larger than the rest, instead of hooking into the frame channel.
2. Navigate your way to the TM section, there's all the manuals for both your generator and trailer in there. In the 24P for your trailer, you'll find exploded diagrams and corresponding parts lists that detail NSN, P/N, and UOC. The first pages will go into detail of what all the acronyms mean. Once you have the part numbers, you can post to the Parts Wanted section here on SS, or enter them in Google as there are a few surplus retail websites and eBay...I have yet to not find a part via these means. The other non-parts TMs will give you step-by-step instructions on how to remove/serviceþreplace/install almost everything down to the nuts n bolts.
Welcome to the club!
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
2. Navigate your way to the TM section, there's all the manuals for both your generator and trailer in there. In the 24P for your trailer, you'll find exploded diagrams and corresponding parts lists that detail NSN, P/N, and UOC. The first pages will go into detail of what all the acronyms mean. Once you have the part numbers, you can post to the Parts Wanted section here on SS, or enter them in Google as there are a few surplus retail websites and eBay...I have yet to not find a part via these means. The other non-parts TMs will give you step-by-step instructions on how to remove/serviceþreplace/install almost everything down to the nuts n bolts.
Welcome to the club!
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Thank you
I load tested my 802 a bit. I put 15 amps on each phase with it set to 120/240 volt single phase. It held with no problem but as it got hot it seemed to increase. crank case pressure a bit. It wasn't like some of these I've seen where it looks like and oily exhaust pipe but when I took out the dipstick it was definitely splashing out some oil droplets and I would say there wasn't any vacuum at least like the book says you want. At what point do I decide it needs repaired and what exactly is the repair? rings? What else besides rings might cause this? Or do I just leave the dipstick in and ignore it? It is running nice and holds load well. I only ran it for about a half hour as I hadn't fueled it and it was getting late. Should I give it load for some hours and see how it acts? Advise?
Jeepadict
Well-known member
- 468
- 678
- 93
- Location
- Round Mountain, NV
How many hours are on it? It helps if we know the machine's story to the best of your knowledge...a little synopsis goes a long way.
I recall reading a few posts about having excess crankcase pressure...my mind wants to say the consensus was rings not being seated due to low hours or prolonged unit storage, tho the memory is foggy on this one. Keep an eye on your coolant and cooling system, if all stay in operating range I'd contine to load it gradually until you have a full load...then let her sit there and work for a while until she's good n' warm and cooked off any possible wet stacking.
You could try fishing around with the search function using different key words to see what other posts you can find on the excess pressure subject. Scrolling thru the main generator page may find some things to pique your interest as well...there's days worth of knowledge to read and absorb.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
I recall reading a few posts about having excess crankcase pressure...my mind wants to say the consensus was rings not being seated due to low hours or prolonged unit storage, tho the memory is foggy on this one. Keep an eye on your coolant and cooling system, if all stay in operating range I'd contine to load it gradually until you have a full load...then let her sit there and work for a while until she's good n' warm and cooked off any possible wet stacking.
You could try fishing around with the search function using different key words to see what other posts you can find on the excess pressure subject. Scrolling thru the main generator page may find some things to pique your interest as well...there's days worth of knowledge to read and absorb.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Ray70
Well-known member
- 2,580
- 5,853
- 113
- Location
- West greenwich/RI
You will find a lot of posts on here about crankcase pressure, especially on the 802 where people think they have pressure based on feeling air coming out of the oil cap or dipstick tube, but the only way to tell for sure is to measure it with a manometer because the 802 can be very deceiving.
A sheet of paper over the oil fill cap while running can also be a good indicator, but the TM explains how to test with a manometer and you can build one easily with some tube, a container and some water.
Both pistons rotate in unison with each other, creating a huge pressure differential inside the crankcase as the rotating assembly turns, giving the illusion of blow-by and compression leakage.
Test first, then if it truly is pressure, a low hour machine will often benefit from a break-in period to seat the rings.
Older machines can sometimes benefit from cleaning the rings with either seafoam, or even a stiction eliminator additive, but don't do anything until you're sure it's not an illusion!
A sheet of paper over the oil fill cap while running can also be a good indicator, but the TM explains how to test with a manometer and you can build one easily with some tube, a container and some water.
Both pistons rotate in unison with each other, creating a huge pressure differential inside the crankcase as the rotating assembly turns, giving the illusion of blow-by and compression leakage.
Test first, then if it truly is pressure, a low hour machine will often benefit from a break-in period to seat the rings.
Older machines can sometimes benefit from cleaning the rings with either seafoam, or even a stiction eliminator additive, but don't do anything until you're sure it's not an illusion!
Thanks for the replies. I will get better at giving history and hours ect. I am newly addicted to these gens. I bid on two thinking I might get one but got them both. lol. So I have an 802A this one. it has 2165 hours and thats about all I know. I did give it an oil change when I got it a couple weeks ago. The batteries were dead and I got them to recharge then found a broken wire going to the alternator so I lucked out. I got it off gov planet.
- 16,697
- 23,915
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
Hello I have an 802A I recently acquired and it seems to run decent but there is a lot of fuel I guess all over the engine compartment. ( please bear with me on this since I don't have a sense of smell fuel and oil ect are all very similar to me when there is just a fine coating) I haven't seen a leak though. I haven't spent much time in there yet as I'm also working a lot of hours and when I'm not working in buying more of these machines and going to get them. Lol. My question today is about the jack on the front. I guess my trailer is an M116A3. I would like to rebuild the jack. It wouldn't go up and down and when I got it to break loose the bottom part is separate from the top. The piece that holds the bottom part to the screw is in a few pieces but it does ride up and down the screw now. If I could find a replacement piece that holds the bottom leg and rides the screw I could fix it. I'm sure you all appreciate my grasp of all the parts names. I will get better as I read talk to you all and learn. Thoughts? Any one know where I could get the parts?
You are not going to find an exploded picture of the jack leg, in any TM. Its considered a "Pluck & Chuck" (throwaway) part. So, find another jack and put it on. Or, find another jack and rape it for parts.
You are not going to find an exploded picture of the jack leg, in any TM. Its considered a "Pluck & Chuck" (throwaway) part. So, find another jack and put it on. Or, find another jack and rape it for parts.
Ray70
Well-known member
- 2,580
- 5,853
- 113
- Location
- West greenwich/RI
Agreed... I had one that looked like he got dropped on the leg and shattered the cast iron plate with the thread in it.
My only option to repair ended up being to buy an Acme thread nut, weld it to a piece of 1/4" plate drilled and cut to size to fit into the tube and pin in place like the original. its either make your own parts or find a good used jack.... not going to be able to buy any parts off the shelf.
My only option to repair ended up being to buy an Acme thread nut, weld it to a piece of 1/4" plate drilled and cut to size to fit into the tube and pin in place like the original. its either make your own parts or find a good used jack.... not going to be able to buy any parts off the shelf.
Copy that. Thank you. I'll be keeping my eyes open for some junkers to acquire for parts.
- 3,814
- 5,888
- 113
- Location
- MA
Jeepadict
Well-known member
- 468
- 678
- 93
- Location
- Round Mountain, NV
OP has a 101/116 trailer, your links are for a 1101/1102.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
- 3,814
- 5,888
- 113
- Location
- MA
I see that now. Thanks
It's the M116A3 trailer. It's a drop down leg that's adjustable with a crank. I bought a harbor freight one that clamps onto the frame but I would really like to get it back to original but oh well. Thank you for taking time to help though.
I did get this torn down. The pins were bent and the part the leg rides down on was pretty broken. It is cast metal so welding it isn't on the table. I straightened the pins and got it reassembled and working it just won't take a lot of weight . It's pretty easy to work on just roll pins. It's to bad parts arent readily available. Thanks for the help though. I did put a request in the wanted section.
- 3,814
- 5,888
- 113
- Location
- MA
I'd just find the longest standard bolt on jack you can find, and use large U bolts with some square or rectangular steel tubing to make braces below the main deck frame, that you can mount a new leg onto to cheat some length.
Maybe something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Fulton-Drop-...=0MTDR7KN89AG23S21H2Y&tag=namespacebran547-20
Maybe something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Fulton-Drop-...=0MTDR7KN89AG23S21H2Y&tag=namespacebran547-20
I did get this at least somewhat rebuilt. It is working and holds the gen for now. I couldn't fix the broken pieces of metal since they are cast but by straightening the bent pins it will hold for now as long as it doesn't take any shocks it should sit there fine and even adjust as needed. Thanks for the suggestions and help.
