nextalcupfan
Well-known member
- 348
- 506
- 93
- Location
- NW Missouri
A couple things off the bat, I bought the set Nov 2019 and it's run pretty well with only a few minor issues (oil leak at the valve covers that wont go away for example).
After I bought the set I replaced all fluids and filters including draining the diesel out of the day tank and adding it back a gallon at a time mixing with fresh diesel.
According to the sharpie on the air filter its last service was May 2006 at 98hrs. (My guess is to change out of the break-in oil)
Set had 150hrs on it when I bought it, now its around 280hrs.
Oil is AMSOil 15w-40 for pre-2006 engines, fuel is standard diesel from my local station with the correct amount of Archoil additive mixed in(AR6200 for Summer AR6300 for Winter).
Filters are all Wix brand.
So every few months I like to do a 100% load bank test on my 803a. This involves 3 Comfort Zone 5kw heaters hooked up to a sub-panel I installed on the set.
During this time I also test and set the Voltage and Frequency using my Fluke 17B multimeter, Voltage to 244V and Frequency to 60.0Hz at 100% load (which is around 62-62.5Hz at no load).
Before this winter however I noticed something, when I was turning up the Frequency to 60Hz it stopped around 59.8Hz and the knob got pretty hard to turn.
I checked and the arm the frequency adjust cable moves had hit its upper stop. I have NEVER seen it touch the stop before, I also have NEVER adjusted either stop (I know you really aren't supposed to except under specific circumstances).
First thing I tried was letting it run at 100% for 3 hours (I really only meant 1 or 2 but I kinda forgot about it....) to burn off any wetstacking, no change.
During this time I checked and the exhaust temps were roughly similar (I think one cylinder runs 10F cooler than the others but its been like that since I bought it).
Second was an oil change. Now I didn't expect this to change anything but it was due anyway.
Third was changing the fuel and air filters, I checked the air filter and it looked brand new still (only had 100-120 hours on it) so I didn't change it. I also checked for possible blockages in the air intake pipe for the airbox.
Both fuel filters looked fine but I replaced them anyway, still no change.
I DID NOT check the prescreen for the fuel pump (more on that later).
Forth was replacing almost all of the fuel return lines (the cloth covered ones that start leaking randomly).
Here is the latest video where I did a full load test, please check the description for timestamps.
Next is hooking up a fuel pressure gauge to see what my running fuel pressure is.
This one I'm quite curious about because my fuel pump does leak a small amount of diesel out of the electrical connection rubber plugs (where the wires go through the body of the pump).
Parts for this are coming in tomorrow(Monday) so I should be able to get you guys the numbers then, I also plan on checking the prescreen since I'll have it partially apart anyway.
What do you guys think? Did I miss anything easy in my troubleshooting steps?
After I bought the set I replaced all fluids and filters including draining the diesel out of the day tank and adding it back a gallon at a time mixing with fresh diesel.
According to the sharpie on the air filter its last service was May 2006 at 98hrs. (My guess is to change out of the break-in oil)
Set had 150hrs on it when I bought it, now its around 280hrs.
Oil is AMSOil 15w-40 for pre-2006 engines, fuel is standard diesel from my local station with the correct amount of Archoil additive mixed in(AR6200 for Summer AR6300 for Winter).
Filters are all Wix brand.
So every few months I like to do a 100% load bank test on my 803a. This involves 3 Comfort Zone 5kw heaters hooked up to a sub-panel I installed on the set.
During this time I also test and set the Voltage and Frequency using my Fluke 17B multimeter, Voltage to 244V and Frequency to 60.0Hz at 100% load (which is around 62-62.5Hz at no load).
Before this winter however I noticed something, when I was turning up the Frequency to 60Hz it stopped around 59.8Hz and the knob got pretty hard to turn.
I checked and the arm the frequency adjust cable moves had hit its upper stop. I have NEVER seen it touch the stop before, I also have NEVER adjusted either stop (I know you really aren't supposed to except under specific circumstances).
First thing I tried was letting it run at 100% for 3 hours (I really only meant 1 or 2 but I kinda forgot about it....) to burn off any wetstacking, no change.
During this time I checked and the exhaust temps were roughly similar (I think one cylinder runs 10F cooler than the others but its been like that since I bought it).
Second was an oil change. Now I didn't expect this to change anything but it was due anyway.
Third was changing the fuel and air filters, I checked the air filter and it looked brand new still (only had 100-120 hours on it) so I didn't change it. I also checked for possible blockages in the air intake pipe for the airbox.
Both fuel filters looked fine but I replaced them anyway, still no change.
I DID NOT check the prescreen for the fuel pump (more on that later).
Forth was replacing almost all of the fuel return lines (the cloth covered ones that start leaking randomly).
Next is hooking up a fuel pressure gauge to see what my running fuel pressure is.
This one I'm quite curious about because my fuel pump does leak a small amount of diesel out of the electrical connection rubber plugs (where the wires go through the body of the pump).
Parts for this are coming in tomorrow(Monday) so I should be able to get you guys the numbers then, I also plan on checking the prescreen since I'll have it partially apart anyway.
What do you guys think? Did I miss anything easy in my troubleshooting steps?