MEP002a no start

[Earth]

I got a 5kw on a trailer and it ran just fine the two times I hauled it out to the woods to do some building. Changed filters, oil, air filter and put in new glo-plugs before using it. Fired up and did it's job. When I went to use it today, it turns over but will not fire. It's like something is preventing it from running. Any ideas on troubleshooting this problem?

Thanks
Tom

 

[Carl_in_NH]

Hello, Tom. Sorry to hear it's giving you trouble. The only interlock I can think of that would prevent starting is the solonoid that closes the fuel control on the IP. As long as that's retracting, it should deliver fuel to the injectors.

If the low pressure side is allowing fuel to trickel back into the tank via the return, then the source to the IP is likely OK.

Did you check for fuel on the high pressure side of the IP by loosening a fuel line fitting a turn or two and turning it over? If ho high pressure but you do have low pressure, then it's one of two things - the IP itself (could be as simple as a stuck plunger button or stuck cam follower (tappet) on the back side of the pump), or it could be the cam not rotating. Pop off a rocker cover and look for normal valve operation as she turns over. If the valves are moving, the cam is OK, and it's likely an issue localized to the IP itself.

 

[lavarok]

Are the glow plugs heating the chambers? It is easy to tell by touch on the MEP gensets. Also be sure to preheat the chambers long enough. Are you getting white smoke when cranking, if so you know there is fuel hitting the injectors.

 

[Earth]

Yeah, I'm getting smoke while cranking. The manifold is getting heat, but I'm concerned the glo plugs may not be functioning properly. They don't feel hot, just a bit warm. I'm giving it enough time for sure, but it just didn't want to fire. I put 10 hours on it last week and it started right up. Today was much colder, and all things being equal, that's the only difference between starting and not starting. Maybe I'll try and power the glo plugs (they're new) with some 24v jumpers off the batts before I start in on the IP as culprit.

 

[lavarok]

You can always try a shot of ether...WITHOUT preheating the glow plugs of course!

 

[Carl_in_NH]

Wonder if it's fuel related in terms of temperature; could it be a gelling issue? Gets mighty cold up there in VT,

 

[Carl_in_NH]

Wonder if it's fuel related in terms of temperature; could it be a gelling issue? Smoke tends to indicate there's at least some fuel making its way into the combustion chamber.

Might want to try a spray of WD-40 into the air intake with the glo plugs disconnected and see if it will fire on that; a lot less brutal than ether.

 

[lavarok]

Wonder if it's fuel related in terms of temperature; could it be a gelling issue? Smoke tends to indicate there's at least some fuel making its way into the combustion chamber.

Might want to try a spray of WD-40 into the air intake with the glo plugs disconnected and see if it will fire on that; a lot less brutal than ether.

The gelling is easy to test, run the pump prime and listen for fuel returning back to the tank.

I have never had much luck starting a diesel with WD40. However, ether has never failed me.

 

[Isaac-1]

If it has not ran since changing the filters, is it possible you have air in the lines and need to bleed the injectors?

Ike

 

[Speddmon]

you have white smoke, so your shut-off solenoid is not sticking. Glow plugs not working would make it harder to start but shouldn't keep it from starting. Gelling???? water free #2 diesel should withstand temps down to about -10 before you start to experience gelling...has it been that cold yet? If water is in the fuel, or it has some funky additives, it could gel before -10, but should still be good to around 10 above to the zero range. I would NOT USE the preheat position and only after it is cranking, give it a quick SMALL shot of either to see if it helps to get it to fire off.

if on the other hand it is actually firing and just not staying running, then you could have a couple of issues to dig into. we need a little more information after you try the either shot.

Good luck

 

[Earth]

I tried a quick shot of ether yesterday, but it still didn't fire. It only got down to about 14, and I let the thing sit in the sun all morning while we worked, and tried again. It was pumping out the bleeder on the bottom of the final filter, so fuel is flowing. I have to check and see if I'm getting it at the injectors. It's not gelled fuel, it might be a cold block problem, but not gelled fuel. It just ran so nice last time I used It I can't help but think something giggled loose or tripped. It's raining this morning so we can't go build a barn, meaning I'll have time to troubleshoot. I pimped out the trailer with an air compressor, a 100 amp panel, and hooks for cords and hoses, so its got to run!

Thanks
Tom

 

[doghead]

Are you pulling the throttle out, when cranking it? Mine will not restart if I shut it off and just crank it over. I have to pull the throttle out farther than where it was running(to make 60Hz), to get it to restart.

 

[Speddmon]

OK, so you tried ether yesterday and it didn't fire....did it run while it had the ether in it though? The shot of ether should have had it running until the ether was gone.

you said it's pumping out the bleeder on the bottom of the second filter....crack the line loose where it goes into the IP and see that you get plenty of fuel pumping out at the IP.....If you have a pump not working quite right, you could be not getting enough fuel to the IP to fire it up. People have tried a pressure gauge in that location as well (when they have a set that runs, but suddenly slows down and dies), and say they are getting plenty of pressure while it's pumping, but never look while they are running the set.

you could also check the linkage and the arm from your fuel shut-off solenoid to the IP....if one of the locking nuts came loose and the adjustment of the arm changed, it could be partially blocking off your fuel delivery inside the IP.

 

[Carl_in_NH]

I knew some of you would think I'm crazy for suggesting the possibility of gelling, but I've already seen two nights that were well below +20F, and Tom is more than 100 miles to my North, so there's the possibility of getting down into that temperature region. I was thinking it might even be localized to some portions of the low pressure side of IP. No matter, doesn't look like that is the issue.

Odd that it didn't fire on a sniff of ether; it really ought to thump and rattle quite a bit with ether in the intake.

 

[Speddmon]

Carl, nobody said you were crazy...I was just curious if it has gotten that cold up there yet. Gelling is a valid issue, but has it been cold enough to gel the fuel yet is all I'm asking.

Earth, you also mentioned a "cold block" problem, again, that should make it harder to start, but not incapable of starting....it should start, but run very rough for a while till it warms up some.....either way, if you think that is a problem, do you have a torpedo heater you could aim at the block for a half hour or so to warm things up??

 

[doghead]

Are you jumping it with a slave cable, to get the best cranking speed possible? Mine does like to have plenty of battery power, when cold out.

 

[atankersdad]

I have one that is hard starting. It belches white smoke and I can crank it 10 -12 times without it ever starting. I get out the slave cables and it will fire right up. Once warm it fires right up over and over. Ever consider putting a block heater on the motor and under your fuel tank since you live in the artic?? And I thought 40 was cold here last nite...

 

[Earth]

I slaved it to a deuce. But the good news is it's fixed. The linkage for the fuel shut-off was jammed up. Thanks everyone.

 

[Speddmon]

COOL....I love it when people actually post up what they find when they fix something....Thanks, and congrats