Mile Marker winch installation?

[erasedhammer]

Two Questions:
-Any tips to get the lower A frame bolt out and turned around?

-There are two wire leads coming off the winch solenoid itself. In the diagrams I have it only shows one wire coming from the circuit breaker, which comes from the winch controller plug. Where is the other wire and where does it go. Also the first diagram and the last one seem to be different judging from the circuit breaker being oriented differently?
Can anyone explain the wiring better?
View attachment winchdocumentationv2.pdf

 

[CGFFEMT]

If you need them, I have the PDFs of the front & rear mile marker winch installation manuals uploaded in another thread here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?151818-Assistance-installing-Mile-Marker/page4

The A-Frame bolts are a challenge, it can help to jack up the truck - there is a sweet spot where the lower bolt has little to no pressure on it and will come out much more easily.

Hope it helps.

 

[juanprado]

The jack trick worked for me. I used a longer bolt, 6 inch if I remember correctly and that also helped in lining up and holding the winch with mounting bracket in place while snugging everything down.

I had to remove the left caliper to install the longer lower control arm bolt. As others have posted use a jack to get the weight off the ground and screw the old bolt out at the same time you are pushing the new one on. Caliper bolts are 7mm allen. Standard kelsy hayes brake set up.

The other wire from the solenoid connects to the winch motor.

The circuit breaker has one wire to the temp sending unit via a Y with the other side of the Y being the main plug from dash. The other side of the circuit breaker takes the main wire to winch.

The instructions you can download are a big help.

The y to the temp sender is kind of tricky as the instructions don't call it the temp sensor, but just a wire number. You can look on my build " Juan's m998" for pics of the Y and wiring.

 

[erasedhammer]

The jack trick worked for me. I used a longer bolt, 6 inch if I remember correctly and that also helped in lining up and holding the winch with mounting bracket in place while snugging everything down.

I had to remove the left caliper to install the longer lower control arm bolt. As others have posted use a jack to get the weight off the ground and screw the old bolt out at the same time you are pushing the new one on. Caliper bolts are 7mm allen. Standard kelsy hayes brake set up.

The other wire from the solenoid connects to the winch motor.

The circuit breaker has one wire to the temp sending unit via a Y with the other side of the Y being the main plug from dash. The other side of the circuit breaker takes the main wire to winch.

The instructions you can download are a big help.

The y to the temp sender is kind of tricky as the instructions don't call it the temp sensor, but just a wire number. You can look on my build " Juan's m998" for pics of the Y and wiring.

So of the two wires coming of the winch solenoid, one goes back to the motor? And the other goes up to the controller. But, I don't see a plug for the other wire anywhere else on the winch...

 

[juanprado]

So of the two wires coming of the winch solenoid, one goes back to the motor? And the other goes up to the controller. But, I don't see a plug for the other wire anywhere else on the winch...

It has been a few months since i did it. The 2nd wire might also go up front. Raining here. Quickest might be to download and check the install guide.

 

[erasedhammer]

It has been a few months since i did it. The 2nd wire might also go up front. Raining here. Quickest might be to download and check the install guide.

Okay I understand the diagrams now

There is one single 24v power lead coming from the temp sensor power through the circuit breaker then out to the winch, but does not plug into the winch itself.
There is a special harness (I have on order) that has the controller plug on one end (mounts to body inside), which is then routed up to the winch and inside that harness, there are two leads which both connect up to the electrical leads coming off the solenoid. That controller harness also has a third connector (the only female connector on the controller harness) which then plugs into the 24v power to supply the controller itself with power.

I believe that is how it is all hooked up.
I have to say that mile marker did not make it easy with those diagrams.

Next I am on to which of the couple plugs in the hydro-booster and power steering gear to tap... If you have any pics of where the hoses plug in and what hose they replace (the winch interrupts the power steering system?)

 

[juanprado]

You are basically removing a hose. The one that goes from the gear box to hydro boost is eliminated. The 2 new hoses goes into it's place. Invest in some good 19mm tools. I used a crowfoot, line wrench, and a stubby wrench. The fit at the hydro boost is tight but not impossible. I found removing the line at the gearbox to be a battle. The war I fought was getting the new hose started at the gear box. Stripped the new end and took it off and reused the old end.

The diagram in the install has good pics as to which hose goes where.

 

[3000gt]

Okay I understand the diagrams now

There is one single 24v power lead coming from the temp sensor power through the circuit breaker then out to the winch, but does not plug into the winch itself.
There is a special harness (I have on order) that has the controller plug on one end (mounts to body inside), which is then routed up to the winch and inside that harness, there are two leads which both connect up to the electrical leads coming off the solenoid. That controller harness also has a third connector (the only female connector on the controller harness) which then plugs into the 24v power to supply the controller itself with power.

I believe that is how it is all hooked up.
I have to say that mile marker did not make it easy with those diagrams.

Next I am on to which of the couple plugs in the hydro-booster and power steering gear to tap... If you have any pics of where the hoses plug in and what hose they replace (the winch interrupts the power steering system?)

Word of advice once u get the winch installed NEVER EVER rev the motor while winching. all winching is to be at idle. u ask why i know this, well just ask the 3 pumps I burnt up in the shop. oh and good luck bleeding the PS system its a MO FO

 

[juanprado]

I just filled the pump with fluid, wheels on ground, started truck and turned wheel side to side maybe 8-10 times. Killed engine checked fluid, no foam or problems, Topped off to correct level and test drove, then checked winch operation. I had no problems with foam or air in system. I used dexron atf.

 

[erasedhammer]

Word of advice once u get the winch installed NEVER EVER rev the motor while winching. all winching is to be at idle. u ask why i know this, well just ask the 3 pumps I burnt up in the shop. oh and good luck bleeding the PS system its a MO FO

Well bleeding isn't a problem. It has a leak and its not that hard to empty the liquid, I just do some fast driving and its gone. Which reminds me, I need to find the leak before I use the winch...

 

[sermis]

Where did you find the wiring harness for the winch?

 

[juanprado]

I bought direct from MM.

 

[erasedhammer]

Where did you find the wiring harness for the winch?

I got mine from kascar. It has a couple week lead time.
Hummerpartsguy also has one listed on their website.