More Rear Axle Seal Questions

[Heavysteven]

I have a couple of question I wanted to ask while replacing the rear seals.

1. Can a standard pallet jack be used to remove the hub assembly? Anyone ever tried it.
2. If the inner bearing does not easily come off, can I pry against the seal to remove it? I would use the axle flange against the brake and leverage against the rear of the seal. Hope by prying on the seal off the bearing would come off.

Thanks

 

[Wildchild467]

If you pry the seal and bend it a little bit its never going to be the same. I wouldnt think a pallet jack would work. I just took the tires off and then took the drum and hub off all in one shot. i grunted a bit carefully removing it making sure not to ding the bearings

 

[3rdmdqm]

Are you going to replace the inner seal?

 

[Heavysteven]

When you say bend it do you mean the seal or the bearing?

Yes, I want replace the inner seal/outer seal and repack the bearing.

Pallet jack idea is for speed of installation.

Thanks for the responses

 

[pwrwagonfire]

Pallet jack, I really like that idea never thought of that!

 

[sandcobra164]

Steven,
A pallet jack is a great idea, the military used something similar and then you'd only have to pull the axle shaft, 3" nuts and remove the brake drum and hub assembled to the tires. Those tires are heavy!!! I've never had an inner bearing stick but the inner seal is both hard coming off and going back on. You have to take your time tapping the new one one. Of course, take time to thoroughly clean out the old grease as not all grease is compatible. I'd recommend a bearing packer, and of course be sure to build an RTV dam in the keyway or you'll soon be leaking again. I'd also recommend not installing an ebay chinese seal. I only got about 500 miles out of one of them and I'm confident I installed everything correctly. I scored some NOS seals from a unit that was about to throw them away and I've had no leaks from the axles since. If you need some help, I can maybe run up sometime soon.

Joseph

 

[DieselBob]

The pallet jack should work great. Like Joseph said above it is very close to the wheel jacks used at every HD truck shop. I have also used a greased 2X10 to slide the tire,wheel,drum assembly off. The biggie is try not to hit the spindle when removing or installing.

 

[SouthernPlanter]

A bottle Jack or pallet jack should work. You only have to lift it just a little bit off of the ground. I got my seals from Memphis Equipment in Tennessee. They are reasonably priced, have the keyway cork and they ship really fast and can talk you through the entire process on the phone.

 

[Heavysteven]

Thanks, for all the info guys. Seals and gaskets should be arriving Monday. I am going to give the pallet jack a try.

Joseph,
Thanks for the offer I will send you a pm if I get stuck or frustrated.

 

[DUG]

A pallet jack WILL work fine. Did it on the ship all the time pulling apart tow tractor rears.

 

[Heavysteven]

Ordered some viton square cord to use instead of cork, bought a bearing packer, and budd socket. Going to buy a cheapo 3/4" impact from harbor freight tomorrow.

 

[rattlecan6104]

hope you have a good air supply for that impact gun, I got a 650 ft-lb 1/2 inch gun, with an adapter and the budd socket. That coupled with the trucks air supply were no match for the lugnuts, I had to borrow a friends torque multiplier, and still had to put a cheater pipe on that.

my personal recommendation with the lugnets: when they are off, clean them up with a wire brush and something to the effect of PLS or breakfree. Then upon installation use antisieze on them, this will help you out a lot getting both a proper torque setting and being able to remove them again later.

 

[flyxpl]

My 1/2 mac tools impact with about 150 pounds of air just barley breaks them loose . I used a piece of 4 " pvc pipe to tap on my inner seal .

 

[clinto]

Ordered some viton square cord to use instead of cork, bought a bearing packer, and budd socket. Going to buy a cheapo 3/4" impact from harbor freight tomorrow.

When you get the results of your bearing packer, I'd like to see you add it to this thread:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/8460-front-axle-seals-boots-stepxstep-6.html#post94509

I am still packing bearings by hand and I'd like to buy a good packer as we have 2 trucks that are coming up on a complete brake and bearing service and I'd rather not try and pack 24 bearings by hand.

Let us know how it works.

 

[73m819]

use antisieze on[/B] them, this will help you out a lot getting both a proper torque setting and being able to remove them again later.

Don't use anti-seize, you can really over tighten, and the DOT can give a ticket for the use because of the OVER torquing, the nut or thimble will slide better on the lubed stud, there by needing MORE torque to get the reading( over torquing, more stretch) which can lead to stud or thimble failure, and rim cracking , the torque setting is for a dry, clean connection

The problem that we have, is some of this stuff has been together for YEARS

 

[Heavysteven]

I normally just clean the threads with brake cleaner.

As far as breaking lug and bud nuts it all about having the right tools. The right socket and a long pipe has always done the job for me.

 

[stumps]

I have a couple of question I wanted to ask while replacing the rear seals.

1. Can a standard pallet jack be used to remove the hub assembly? Anyone ever tried it.

A pallet jack would work, but only if you are on a level surface, and only if you jack up both sides of the axle.

The problem with pallet jacks is they need the tire up pretty high off of the floor, and if you jack only one side, that puts the axle at a pretty steep upward angle.... you need the axle to be parallel to the floor for best results.

If the floor isn't level, you run the risk of having 400 pounds of wheel and hub assembly chasing you down a grade, and then flopping over. Unlike tire dolly's, pallet jacks have no provision for lashing the wheels to the dolly.

2. If the inner bearing does not easily come off, can I pry against the seal to remove it? I would use the axle flange against the brake and leverage against the rear of the seal. Hope by prying on the seal off the bearing would come off.

The bearing should only be a slide fit. It is ok to pry a little, but it shouldn't take much effort at all.

-Chuck

 

[stumps]

If you decide not to use a wheel dolly, or pallet jack, there is no need to bust a gut lifting the hub and drum assembly. Use a little ingenuity, and build yourself a hub and drum skid. All you need is a piece of 1/2 inch plywood, a short chunk of 2x6, and a couple of wedge shaped scraps of wood.

After the wheels are off, stack some wood under the drum and hub assembly to the base of the drum, and stick a 14"x14" square of 1/2 inch plywood under the hub and drum. Take a couple of small chunks of wood, and place them on either side of the drum (as if to prevent it from rolling) and mark their position on the plywood. Measure the distance from the hub to the plywood, and cut a semi-circle of the hub's diameter out of the side of the 2x6, so that it will cradle the hub. Mark the plywood for this 2x6 chunk, and then attach the small chunks of wood that keep the drum from rolling, and the 2x6 to the plywood.

When you have that made, you can then set the skid under the hub/drum, and slide it along the wood stack to remove the hub and drum.

Also, when you press the new seal onto the spindle, you want to apply your pressure to the seal assembly right where the seal fits onto the spindle. I use a piece of 3 inch schedule 40 PVC pipe, and a pipe cap. To make this fit, you have to cut an inside bevel on the end of the pipe at about a 45 degree slope. That bevel helps center the PVC pipe, and gives clearance to allow the seal to be pressed over the step in the spindle all the way.

-Chuck

 

[randygk]

Don't waste your money

Don't waste your money on the Harbor Frt cheap 3/4 inch impact. Got one and it wouldn't touch half the lug nuts.

 

[stumps]

Don't waste your money on the Harbor Frt cheap 3/4 inch impact. Got one and it wouldn't touch half the lug nuts.

Are you giving it enough air?

The little 1/4 inch industrial fittings, and 1/4 inch ID hoses are not big enough to feed the 3/4 inch guns with the air volume they need. If you must use fittings, use the 1/2 inch Auto style fittings, and a 3/8 inch ID hose.

-Chuck