TCD
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- Mound.House, NV
Howdy,
I am mounting an aluminum military shelter box (a 8'w x 12' Craig 73) on the bed of my 923-a2. I live and roam in the South West (e.g., Black Rock Desert, Death Valley, NV & AZ) so box height and width is less critical to me that those in heavily forested areas.
After I remove the drop-sides (I need to retain the tailgate for another project) the box will just fit on the bed without cutting the permanent forward corners off. My goal is to get the box on the bed so I can evaluate its functionality for the rest of this summer.
If everything works as I hope then I may remove the bed completely and "tub" out a set of wheel wells as a winter project so the box is as low as possible. If I am happy with the temporary setup and can live with the box height then I will cut off the permanent corners and gain about two feet of "deck" at the back of the bed by sliding the box all of the way forward. If the box does not work out then I will restore the bed to its normal configuration (that's why I don't want to initially cut the corners) and change the box to a S-280.
I can think of two ways to mount this box:
1 - Lay the box directly on the bed and use 4-6 "grade 8" bolts to secure the box directly to the bed by placing a row of bolts down each side. I think this would stiffen the bed but still allow the bed to frame flex we see off-road. I'm not sure about using oak strips (as the bed is mounted to the frame) under the box for this option.
2 - Lay the box on oak strips and then using 4-6 "grade 8" bolts and springs duplicate the method used to mount the bed to the frame. I think this would allow the box to also move and possibly removing some stress from the structure of the box when the frame/bed are flexing.
ALL thoughts and comments will be Greatly Appreciated!
Thanks,
tom n tyler
I am mounting an aluminum military shelter box (a 8'w x 12' Craig 73) on the bed of my 923-a2. I live and roam in the South West (e.g., Black Rock Desert, Death Valley, NV & AZ) so box height and width is less critical to me that those in heavily forested areas.
After I remove the drop-sides (I need to retain the tailgate for another project) the box will just fit on the bed without cutting the permanent forward corners off. My goal is to get the box on the bed so I can evaluate its functionality for the rest of this summer.
If everything works as I hope then I may remove the bed completely and "tub" out a set of wheel wells as a winter project so the box is as low as possible. If I am happy with the temporary setup and can live with the box height then I will cut off the permanent corners and gain about two feet of "deck" at the back of the bed by sliding the box all of the way forward. If the box does not work out then I will restore the bed to its normal configuration (that's why I don't want to initially cut the corners) and change the box to a S-280.
I can think of two ways to mount this box:
1 - Lay the box directly on the bed and use 4-6 "grade 8" bolts to secure the box directly to the bed by placing a row of bolts down each side. I think this would stiffen the bed but still allow the bed to frame flex we see off-road. I'm not sure about using oak strips (as the bed is mounted to the frame) under the box for this option.
2 - Lay the box on oak strips and then using 4-6 "grade 8" bolts and springs duplicate the method used to mount the bed to the frame. I think this would allow the box to also move and possibly removing some stress from the structure of the box when the frame/bed are flexing.
ALL thoughts and comments will be Greatly Appreciated!
Thanks,
tom n tyler