Mutt advice before I pull the trigger, help me out mutt guys!

[elkhtr]

Anything special to watch out for?
Owner says it runs and drives, all origional.
What does uncutt refer to, did they cut the body to de-mill?
I am fairly mechanical, and understand the rubber stuff will need replacement, etc.
It's the stuff a person unfamiliar with this vehicle might miss that I am after.
You know the old, "I would never have bought one that had (fill in problem)"
Does 2500.00 sound fair?

 

[Coffey1]

Looks good to me uncut means I believe that no one has cut into the body it is the way the factory made it.
I would buy it if I had the cash

 

[rtk]

Sounds cheap , cut refers to the frame/body , which were cut by DOD prior to sale . The MV's were supposed to be scrapped , many were "SAVED" and put back together . That being said I would NOT buy a "CUT " 151 . Looks like all the big parts are there , has a new fuel pump . How does the MV run ? I am not that knowledgeable on 151's , but you should get some good help from this site . Are you under the gun to purchase this vehicle ?

 

[mkcoen]

When we demilled them at Ft Lewis back in the '80s they'd cut them in half and you could buy the 2 pieces and folks would weld them back together to make a "whole" unit. A running, driving, uncut M151 is well worth $2500 in my opinion. One of the big rust out spots on these is the battery box and check the channels on the underside of the floor as that's where mud would build up and rot them out.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Jump on it. That price for a clean uncut 151a2 like that is unheard of. Rusted out crap that has been cut normally sells for that price.

 

[AIE1]

Every thing is in the body of the M151, no pix's of the floor board and underside, 151 are rust buckets, with that uni-body you must crawl under and check out crossmember,s front and rear for major rust. Price doesn't sound bad and every thing can be fixed. However Please check out that underside, if it was a reweld you should see signs for or aft of the battery box and fuel tank.
Good luck on that project!

 

[elkhtr]

I just got a hold of the owner, one small spot of rust through in the floor board.
He says it runs good, just a little sluggish at higher speeds probably carb gunk.
He said it was cut.
Is this a deal breaker if it is a good runner?
It was state patrol inspected, and passed for what that's worth.
He is sending more photos, I will post when I get them.
At this point I have 100.00 invested to hold it till Saturday.
Thanks for any and all opinions!

 

[Jeepsinker]

Still well worth the money. You just may need to learn to weld sheet metal at some point. Probably won't be soon by the looks of it.

 

[B3.3T]

Does it have a title?

 

[F18hornetM]

I'd buy it cut or uncut for that price, if it was all there. And a title is preferred but if not can be found. Ive seen some very good cut ones that you really had to look hard to tell. I guess a serious collector wouldn't want that but I love playing with ours so I don't care much. Its an A2 and doesn't look butchered from the pics. There isn't a sheet metal part on them you cant make new.

 

[Recovry4x4]

I would be all.over that. Loves me some 151.

 

[elkhtr]

More photos.
A little rusty topside, I will have to check out the underside in person.
I don't mind a little body repair work as long as it is basically solid.
We are not going for a full restoration project on this, more something for me and my kids to play with, fixing up as we go.
Most five ton parts are too heavy for my 11 & 8 year old daughters, but they love to help anyway.
Thought this might be more their speed.
Please keep the honest opinions coming.
thanks

 

[Badojeep]

Looks like a very good price, buy it . You will be happy.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Yep. Title is the main thing. Looks good otherwise.

 

[elkhtr]

Does it have a title?

Quote from the add.
the owner lost the original title. It now has been registered with the state and on the waiting period for pink slip, but vehicle can still be sold. It has the collector plate on it now and that too can be transferred over to the new buyer.

 

[Jeepsinker]

I would love to have one on par with that. I don't have one at all as of yet.

 

[renodogs]

Okay, here's my take. When you're dealing with a unibody, rust through is serious if you can't get replacement panels. Yeah, it's an M-151. But don't fool yourself if you think you don't have to repair those body panels because they provide rigidity to the entire vehicle, they're not there for show. You'll need to get up to speed on working sheet metal, using a seam roller and TIG welding to fabricate your own parts unless you can find a donor vehicle or if there's some after-market panel fairy creating them. I kind of doubt it, but I could be wrong. Others that have more experience on parts locating for these little buggers will know more about supply sources.

Nonetheless, when I buy unibody vehicles, I have learned to pass up the rust buckets unless I need parts on them, but ONLY for parts. I do know where one is in Nevada, and if you're interested in talking to the guy, PM me. It's an M-151A1, and it's been cut, but it's all there, waiting for some love. I'm not sure how bad it is, but the last time I was at his place, it was welded together, but I think it could use some serious massaging to get it right.

Hate to be a wet blanket on your interest to buy this thing, but I'd pass it up. Look around the desert areas for an M-151 and you'll be much happier with the condition of the project. And lest you think otherwise, they ARE a project. I remember we always had problems with rear ends in those things, Motor T was constantly replacing them. However, most of the stuff we had was VERY well loved, left over from tons of use from 'Nam.

And remember boys and girls, your mileage may vary.

 

[hambone]

You can get a complete underbody rebuild kit for $300. Cameron Manufacturing & Design has the panels you need. Hambone

 

[lpcoating]

We make 151 body panels. We are working on the seat supports and rear panel at this time. More to come after that...

www.m151bodypanels.com

 

[elkhtr]

Okay, here's my take. When you're dealing with a unibody, rust through is serious if you can't get replacement panels. Yeah, it's an M-151. But don't fool yourself if you think you don't have to repair those body panels because they provide rigidity to the entire vehicle, they're not there for show. You'll need to get up to speed on working sheet metal, using a seam roller and TIG welding to fabricate your own parts unless you can find a donor vehicle or if there's some after-market panel fairy creating them. I kind of doubt it, but I could be wrong. Others that have more experience on parts locating for these little buggers will know more about supply sources.

Nonetheless, when I buy unibody vehicles, I have learned to pass up the rust buckets unless I need parts on them, but ONLY for parts. I do know where one is in Nevada, and if you're interested in talking to the guy, PM me. It's an M-151A1, and it's been cut, but it's all there, waiting for some love. I'm not sure how bad it is, but the last time I was at his place, it was welded together, but I think it could use some serious massaging to get it right.

Hate to be a wet blanket on your interest to buy this thing, but I'd pass it up. Look around the desert areas for an M-151 and you'll be much happier with the condition of the project. And lest you think otherwise, they ARE a project. I remember we always had problems with rear ends in those things, Motor T was constantly replacing them. However, most of the stuff we had was VERY well loved, left over from tons of use from 'Nam.

And remember boys and girls, your mileage may vary.

Renodogs, I appreciate your words of caution.
I am a 30 year machinist and fabricator and specialize in sheet metal forming tooling for the aerospace industry.
Having to cut form and weld a few replacement parts doesn't bother me as long as the whole tub doesn't need to be redone.
Who knows, there might be a market for "fairy" made replacement panels
I did a couple of brief searches and it sounds like there is fair parts availibility for other things.
All that said, it sounds like it's worth driving the 80 miles to at least look at it.