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My cucv lift

Cucvnut

Well-known member
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Location
Carver, Oregon
So we thrashed and lifted my truck about 5 inches here are a few shots
 

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Hogg

New member
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Location
Ardmore, OK
Sweet ride... What lift kit is that? I really want to lift my M1009, been shopping around and havent decided what to buy yet... Guess its all depends on how much $$ you want to spend...
 

Cucvnut

Well-known member
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Location
Carver, Oregon
its a custom lift kit. with parts from ord and other company's. I spent about 2 grand on buying parts and collecting stuff for the truck.

It has

2WD steering box taped for hydro assist steering.
Custom PSC hydro assist lines.
AGR rock ram with custom brackets .
Custom front drive shaft.
WFO spring plates,shackles,u bolts and Dana 60 steering knuckle studs and pit-man arm,cross over steering arm and tie rod custom cut to length and tig welded ball joint ends.
ORD k30 shackle flip in the rear,front and rear zero rate blocks
Rear leafs are the stock ones with the top 5 springs and over load and a zero rate.
Front springs are 4 inch with a zero rate.
XRP front and rear brake lines
BDS shocks for a 8 inch lift.
used rims and tires for free :)
 
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On your steering box, did you tap it yourself, or did you order one with it already done. I still need to do that part on mine, and was going to order one for an '87 4x2 suburban with 6.2 diesel and see how that works out.
What length are your springs in front and rear? [thumbzup]
 
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Cucvnut

Well-known member
3,804
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Location
Carver, Oregon
I had my friend hap the box for me befor we lifted it. the front springs are stock lenght and the rear springs are the stock ones with just the top 5 springs and the over load. you might need to make sure what ever box you order is the same size as the current one to fit your rag joint or you will need to get a universal joint fron either flaming river or borgson. i had that issue on mine.
 
Good info to know. I do plan on the u-joint to replace the rag. Right now I am trying to figure out how to build the rear springs to give the proper amount of lift without making them too stiff. I have the rear shackle flip from V4x4, which should give about 2" of lift. From the measurements I have in the front, the srpings I built using the rear 52s out of one of my M1009s plus a couple smaller leafs on the bottom, gave about 6" of lift up front. The stock springs I am using in the back are 63" ones out of a 1988 Chevrolet 3500 with the bottom helper spring removed, and I will be adding several of the bottom springs out of the spring packs from the military setup I am replacing. I hope to avoid using zero rates if possible, but may resort to them if I can't get the right amount of lift to keep it from looking like a bulldog. Anyway, thanks for the info on the steering box. If you or anyone else has any ideas on how to match lifts front ond rear in a quicker manner than trial and error, I am all ears. I also like that tan color on a lifted M1008. Seen a few others lifted in camo, but I think this is the first tan one I've seen.
 

Sharecropper

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Paris KY
Did you remove your front sway bar altogether, or do you plan to use the quick-detach kit from ORD?
 

Cucvnut

Well-known member
3,804
61
48
Location
Carver, Oregon
i took the sway bar off all together i dont need it. I do have a quick detach kit from my suburban if anyone wants it its for sale.
 
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