Need help with F-1 Wiring Diagram

[OL AG '89]

I'm battling a starting issue on my 09 and need some help reading the wiring diagram.
I am tracing PPL/WHT wire from starter relay under dash to ????? the diagram shows it going into a BLOCK??? CONNECTOR
or maybe the connection through the firewall????
What the heck is the thing in the diagram that looks like "LEGOS"??

O.k. after a little more digging it appears the "LEGOS" are connectors....???
Where are they located ? I fished up into the dash looking for connectors with correct wire colors but can't seem to locate.
The wires leave the relay and head upwards, I cant see and cant reach far enough up into dash to locate connector.

 

[Warthog]

They are firewall connectors. There are three that fit into the "square" block. The first few pages of the troubleshooting section talks about them.

 

[firefox]

If you look at the legos connector, you will see a mirror image of it just to the left.
The wire then goes to a two pin connector with a diode plugged into it which id probably
on the firewall in the engine compartment. Then it goes to the "water in fuel solenoid"
in the fuel filter block.It is also spliced to 3 YEL-5 that goes to the ignition switch solenoid, as well as to the glow plug controller via 3 ppl/wht 390C

Not sure what you are trying to achive here, but my guess is that the chinese crap relay is fried
and messing things up for you. If that is true, then there is an easy fix.

Let me know and I'll help you thru the fix.
Bruce

 

[OL AG '89]

Thanks Joe and Bruce.
Bruce, I'm dealing with a "NO START" on 09.
I did the doghead conversion, so the relay is good. I replaced, AGAIN, because I bought two when I did the first update. I have power to all systems but no crank, no relay activation when I turn to start position.
I am tracing the PPL/WHT wire to its source to verify as I get no voltage when I turn ignition to start position.
I think if I find PPL/WHT source I will find the problem. I will search for the Diode and check it tomorrow when the suns out again.

side note.... I jumpered across the relay so I know that the starter and solenoid are still good.

 

[firefox]

I am noty sure, but I think the source comes from the ignition switch. My guess is that the
water in fuel solenoid and the glow plug module act in some way to inhibit the signal by
breaking or inserting ground. I hope I have been at least a little help in this.
Bruce

 

[Warthog]

A little more info.

When the key is turned to start, the yellow wire from the ingintion switch supplies 12v power to the following:

1. yellow wire to the purple/white wire at stater relay. relay is energized.

2. yellow wire to the purple/white wire at the 6 plug "lego" goes to the glow plug controler. Supplies power to the controller during starting.

3. yellow wire to the purple/white wire at the 20 plug "lego" at the firewall. Goes to the Water-In-Fuel diode and then to the fuel filter base. Energizes the W-I-F relay and the dash light should light (there is another fuse for the bulb itself)

The yellow wire is connected to the purple wires is buried inside the wiring harness. Picture attached.

The 6 plug "lego" is near the base of the steering column also.

 

[Warthog]

You may have a bad ignition switch.

The power comes from the 12v positive terminal block on the firewall, thru the firewall plug and the to the switch itself.

When the key is turned to start, the internal contact energize the yellow wire.

 

[OL AG '89]

Thanks JOE !!!
I'm going to tackle this thing tonight when I get home.
I have not checked for voltage on the yellow wire, but since I have the buzzer, wait light and gen., oil lights on, I presume the switch is still good, unless the yellow wire energizes after all that happens... It's possible as it literally was working and POOF (no smoke) not working.....

 

[Warthog]

Thanks JOE !!!
I'm going to tackle this thing tonight when I get home.
I have not checked for voltage on the yellow wire, but since I have the buzzer, wait light and gen., oil lights on, I presume the switch is still good, unless the yellow wire energizes after all that happens... It's possible as it literally was working and POOF (no smoke) not working.....

The yellow wire is only energized when the key is in the start position. I have seen the internal contact of the ignition switch go bad (dirt/grease/corrozion)

Keep us posted.

 

[Barrman]

Vacuum the floor out before you get into this one Taylor. Since laying on the pedals is the just about the only way to be almost comfortable while messing with the switch. It is amazing how each little bit of dirt feels like a sharpened arrow head after laying on it for 5 minutes.

 

[OL AG '89]

Thanks Tim, I actually have an old piece of carpet I lay down on for the "dying roach position"
So here's where I am tonight.
I checked voltage at yellow wire with ignition switch in Start, no voltage. I rechecked ALL fuses with ohm meter, just to make sure I don't have one that looks good, but isn't.
I noticed what appears to a switch under dash, see 1st picture and 2nd picture, which has a rod attached to it. I presume it's the ignition switch.
I also found the six pin connector, 3rd picture.

I fished around the engine compartment checking connection for water in fuel and diode. I never found the diode or anything that looked like one.

Joe you mentioned a water in fuel light fuse???? don't see that labeled on the fuse diagram in TM.....
I noticed while trying to start, my WIF light isnt coming on, not sure if it's been working prior to this or not.

So basically no power to yellow wire with ignition in start position. When I go to start position the gen lights go out, the brake light comes on. i think this is normal during starting.

Any other ideas?

I'm going to spend the rest of the evening reading back through the TM and electrical troubleshooting section.

 

[firefox]

Based on what Warthog said, It looks like a bad ignition switch.
I don't know for sure though.
Bruce

 

[Warthog]

The grey switch in the two pictures is the dimmer switch for the headlights. The ignition switch is on top of the steering columm. The tech manual has a step by step to replace it. TM 9-2320-289-34 Chapter 4-13, page 4-90.

The water-in-fuel diode is in the firewall harness behing the air breather.

You will have to drop (not remove) the steering column to install the switch. About $10 at Oreilly's

 

[Warthog]

The Water-In-Fuel lamp is controled by the Engine Control Fuse. I doubt that it is bad as it controls alot of other things that you haven't mentioned not working.

 

[OL AG '89]

O.K. got it.
I'm picking up or ordering an Ignition Switch tonight on way home. I've done an ignition switch on Son's '74 Blazer, so not a stranger, but will have to find time to drop steering column this weekend, if work - play doesn't get in the way. I may try to clean switch and toy with it before replacing with new one, will replace before buttoning up, but again curious as to the sudden nature of "GO then NOGO". I never tried a BIGGER hammer maybe do THAT tonight ......
The Dimmer switch FOOLED me....... Never even considered a switch with rod attached from inside the steering column.
I'm learning way too much for my own good on this one!!!!
I still never located the diode, have to crawl on top of motor tonight and dig through the wires, don't think that's the problem, but curiousity has the best of me.

 

[Warthog]

I still never located the diode, have to crawl on top of motor tonight and dig through the wires, don't think that's the problem, but curiousity has the best of me.

The Diode is covered in gray duct tape. Use the picture as a reference. Good luck.

 

[OL AG '89]

And the SAGA continues....
Picked up the new ignition switch on way home.
I decided to tackle the job tonight, just couldn't wait for the fun!!!!
No problem while reading the TM....
Disconnected the batteries..... Let the fun begin.
Took the dash cluster off.
dropped the steering wheel, found the nut, stud and screw requiring removal on ignition switch.
Wrestled the old switch out, unplugged the connectors, cleaned and then plugged new switch back in. Got the new switch back on, tried to move ignition to test the switch movement realized you need to gently put column back into original location for ignition to turn.
Adjusted the switch and then tightened back down....
I put the dash cover back on and then connected the batteries....

AND then turn igniton key to start ......
NOTHING!!!!!
as the sun sets I am standing here looking at my new best enemy!!!!

Any ideas from the gallery?????

EDIT

Sounds like I need to start from the beginning and perform a "PROPER" flogging on all ignition circuits based on the TM and F-1 Diagram.
I think I am relearning the old addage about the "short cut" method......
I really didn't want to take the dash apart, but only way I see to get to all of the wiring and do what I need to do.

 

[OL AG '89]

Well it's actually raining in Kingwood tonight, so the electrical issue will be put on hold for another day......
WE NEED THE RAIN!!!!
Bummed but o.k., just gives me more time to read through the TM's

 

[Barrman]

If you are getting 12V power to the switch on the column, then the problem is between there and the starter relay. You are getting 24V to the starter relay, right?

 

[OL AG '89]

Tim,
I am getting 24v at relay. I can jump across relay and start truck, once running, everything seems to be acting right. there is no voltage at ppl/wht wire at relay in start position.
I need to tear dash cluster back off and just start testing circuits for voltage...