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need hemtt Detroit Diesel 8v92ta mechanic near Sacramento
- Thread starter bigmike
- Start date
- 8,525
- 2,724
- 113
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- Monrovia, Ca.
I didn't tell you the other day, forgot......I was told most likely a head gasket, guess that is a common issue.
- 6,551
- 13,929
- 113
- Location
- Hawthorne, NV.
Sorry to hear about all the trouble Mike. I have some Detroit experience, and I agree with Will it sounds like a head gasket.
Thanks Tracer. Come on over for a Detroit Diesel rebuild party.
8madjack
Active member
- 416
- 78
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- Location
- Gold country Ca.
Just saw this, hope it's just a head gasket. I'm no diesel mechanic but i aam mechanically inclined,I'm by placerville, let me know if I can help.
- 6,551
- 13,929
- 113
- Location
- Hawthorne, NV.
Mike, get a Detroit Diesel service manual for the 8V92 and start getting familiar with it. Should have a trouble shooting section. Probably several available on e-pay.
- 6,426
- 4,985
- 113
- Location
- Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
Much information available. Searched for 8V92 and much information avaialable for free as 8V92 used in marine applications. Just google 8V92.
also gov planet sold one in the container for $5005 in Octoberr.
also gov planet sold one in the container for $5005 in Octoberr.
- 6,551
- 13,929
- 113
- Location
- Hawthorne, NV.
Mike, give Diesel Kings Truck Repair in Sacramento a call, 916-862-2924. They specialize in heavy truck repair, full 5 star on yelp. And as frank stated keep an eye out on GP.
snowtrac nome
Well-known member
- 1,674
- 139
- 63
- Location
- western alaska
Its been a while but I have a fair amount of experience on road oilers . I agree its head gasket time because of the white smoke once the heads are off have them magnaflux checked . I rebuilt heads and turbos for a Detroit specialty shop and half our head cores were cracked on the fire deck.
Wow, that is an epic journey with an epic vehicle. Sorry I don't have anything constructive to offer except "glad you both made it home."
Update,
Got her in the shop safe and sound. Drained the muck out of the oil pan. Must have been 12+ gallons...way more than the oil alone. As I transferred to my waste oil drum there were blobs of green coolant in the milky muck. Got a front leaky tire fixed. A 500 pound tire is not the easiest thing to wrestle. Thank god for my snap on dual tire jack.
Dropped the drive shaft from front axle one to front axle two. That gave me room to access the oil pan a bit better. Love those TMs.
Got all the bolts out of the oil pan. She won’t let go. Any ideas? I don’t want to damage/bend the pan flange by pounding something in between the pan and block. No pusher holes either.
The plan is to drop the oil pan and pressurize the radiator thru the drain spigot to see where water is getting thru. Keeping fingers crossed it’s just a head gasket. Again, please offer ideas to get oil pan separated from block.
Got her in the shop safe and sound. Drained the muck out of the oil pan. Must have been 12+ gallons...way more than the oil alone. As I transferred to my waste oil drum there were blobs of green coolant in the milky muck. Got a front leaky tire fixed. A 500 pound tire is not the easiest thing to wrestle. Thank god for my snap on dual tire jack.
Dropped the drive shaft from front axle one to front axle two. That gave me room to access the oil pan a bit better. Love those TMs.
Got all the bolts out of the oil pan. She won’t let go. Any ideas? I don’t want to damage/bend the pan flange by pounding something in between the pan and block. No pusher holes either.
The plan is to drop the oil pan and pressurize the radiator thru the drain spigot to see where water is getting thru. Keeping fingers crossed it’s just a head gasket. Again, please offer ideas to get oil pan separated from block.
8madjack
Active member
- 416
- 78
- 28
- Location
- Gold country Ca.
double check you didn't miss a fastener, then carefully use a putty knife to cut the gasket between the block and pan. Tap the pan with a rubber mallet.
when you pull the head it should be obvious where the coolant is getting through. Based on my past experience
when you pull the head it should be obvious where the coolant is getting through. Based on my past experience
- 2,096
- 646
- 113
- Location
- Orlando, FL
Check out Bus Grease Monkey on Youtube. He works on old Greyhound buses with the Detroit engines. Lots of good content and hands on rebuilding and setup stuff. The guy knows his way around a Detroit.
Good luck with your project.
Good luck with your project.
- 8,525
- 2,724
- 113
- Location
- Monrovia, Ca.
Ditto on double checking for missed bolts and the scraper.
The Bus Grease Monkey dude is the one I mentioned on the phone, he works on some OLD stuff!
The Bus Grease Monkey dude is the one I mentioned on the phone, he works on some OLD stuff!
silverstate55
Unemployable
- 2,075
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- 113
- Location
- UT
As others mentioned, use a putty knife to work your way all around the oil pan to break it loose gradually.
Check the oil cooler seals as well to make sure no coolant is leaking into it...if you already have it apart, you might as well go through it all to prevent future repeats.
Make sure you only run straight-grade 40-weight detergent-type oil in it, to prevent scoring the liners, once it’s all put back together.
Check the oil cooler seals as well to make sure no coolant is leaking into it...if you already have it apart, you might as well go through it all to prevent future repeats.
Make sure you only run straight-grade 40-weight detergent-type oil in it, to prevent scoring the liners, once it’s all put back together.
Update,
Used a couple putty knives, one on top of the other, that did the trick and it let go after a few attempts around the perimeter. Next I dropped the front oil pickup to allow clearance for the pan to drop down between the engine, the frame crossover, and the 2nd front axle yoke. Ready to build me a pressure tester that will attach to the radiator drain petcock.
Used a couple putty knives, one on top of the other, that did the trick and it let go after a few attempts around the perimeter. Next I dropped the front oil pickup to allow clearance for the pan to drop down between the engine, the frame crossover, and the 2nd front axle yoke. Ready to build me a pressure tester that will attach to the radiator drain petcock.
Attachments
- 6,551
- 13,929
- 113
- Location
- Hawthorne, NV.
Well done Mike. With a little patience and following the TMs you're on your way.