Need Information for Flat Towing M931A2

[Mike929]

In the process of moving my truck to my brothers my Alternator fried everything including gages.

I have disconnected the alternator, removed fried batteries, installed what should be okay batteries and attempted to start the truck. Buzzers go off but it does not turn over. Don't know how much I fried or if there is something simple to band aid it at this point.

I was close enough to my home (100 yds) that we caged the brakes and used my 1/2 truck to pull it back into my yard to get it off the street, but I was moving it to prevent being fined by the city, so the clock is still ticking, and I need a quick solution to get it moved.

I do have a deuce and a medium tow bar at my brothers. Plan is for him to drive the deuce to my home tomorrow after work, hook up the tow bar and slow roll it to my brothers where I can work on it and start replacing what I have to.

Questions:
1) Beyond caging the brakes, what do I need to do to flat tow a M931A2?

2) Can I place the transfer case in neutral, if so, what does that feel like? I'm new to this truck, and don't know what that feels like or how to tell if there isn't a clear detent. Should I just drop the drive shaft between the transmission and transfer case instead?

3) is there a top speed that I need to stay under flat towing to prevent damage. I would believe my "feel safe" speed is going to be slow enough (20-30 mph).

Understand it isn't optimum to pull a M931A2 with a Deuce, but I really have my back to the wall. I will be traveling from Flower Mound, TX to Honey Grove, TX. About 100 miles of fairly flat and straight road.

Is there a better solution that I am not seeing?

Thanks for any help,
Mike

 

[ke5eua]

Need help(information) to flat tow M931A2

Undo the cage if you are going to tow it with the deuce and hook up air lines, you will need the brakes.

I flat towed a dump and put it in neural and everything was fine.

Per the FM you need to pull drive shafts. Disconnect the shafts at the axle and just secure them up and you don't have to remove them all the way.

Also, chains, need safety chains.

FM 20-22 Vehicle Recovery Operations is your best friend. A copy stays in the truck with me at all time now.

FM will also tell you 30 mph, towing with a deuce safety is your best friend here, especially if you leave the brakes caged.

I would offer to come help but you are 400 miles from me.

 

[Mike929]

Thanks, I've been trying to research as well. I will remove the drive shafts, and uncage the brakes and buy some airlines to hook it up to the deuce's air. I have a set of chains that I just bought, but also hoped that they would go unused a bit longer. I did use one to pull the truck back onto my property, so was glad I had them.

No worries about the help. I think I can get it done, just wanted to ask so if I was missing something easy someone could chime in and save me.

 

[Mike929]

Do you know which TM the recovery information is in? I would like to review it tonight in the hope that tomorrow goes better?

 

[ke5eua]

I edited my post with the info. It is FM 20-22 Vehicle Recovery Operations. Phone autocorrected to tm for me.

Here is the 1970 version from the site http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/misc/FM20-22.pdf

Here is the new version FM 4-30.31RECOVERY AND BATTLE DAMAGE ASSESSMENT AND REPAIR 2006 http://armypubs.army.mil/doctrine/DR_pubs/dr_a/pdf/fm4_30x31.pdf

Google will fetch other versions also.

 

[Coffey1]

My 923 label on dash reads place transmission in neutral and place t case in neutral.
Once you move the lever into neutral you can tell.
I would have to look and see if it reads anything about speed don't remember.

 

[porkysplace]

Slow is the only way to go , your pulling at truck that weighs 30% more than the Deuce and twice as heavy as the rated towing capacity of a Deuce .

 

[Mike929]

duplicate post (removed)

 

[Mike929]

30 mph is max if that much. We plan to put the deuce in low range, so it isn't going to be a quick trip by any means.

I'm going to defer the driving to my brother who drives big trucks and has tons more experience then myself.

I will place the transmission and transfer case in neutral, but after watching the magic smoke leave my electrical system, I plan to disconnect the drive shafts at the front and rear axle tomorrow after work and strap them to the frame. I can't afford to trash the transmission. I was already stretched thin when I saw thousands of dollars worth of electrical stuff burn out in front of my eyes.

I guess one question I haven't asked, is why isn't there a fuse or breaker that blows when the alternator goes to the dark side and tries to kill the truck? Oh well, time for that question after I get it out of the city and hopefully avoid a fine from the city, who expected it to be gone yesterday.

 

[av8or]

Sounds like the black box on the fire wall has a bad solenoid. Screw in the override knob on the fuel cut off and jump the starter solenoid. And drive it. Reverse the process on the fuel solenoid to shut off.

 

[Mike929]

Sounds like the black box on the fire wall has a bad solenoid. Screw in the override knob on the fuel cut off and jump the starter solenoid. And drive it. Reverse the process on the fuel solenoid to shut off.

I assume the black box you are talking about is the one behind the wash fluid jug, but not familiar with the override knob or other procedures. Is there a TM covering this procedure or is this field knowledge?

I am a bit gun shy at this point after blowing out all my lights, gauges and seeing the mess in my battery box. If there is something I can do to limp it home safely, I'm all ears. Key word being safely, and hopefully no further damage to the vehicle, but I have to get it moved.

 

[av8or]

Sorry, I missed the A2 .

 

[wheelspinner]

You do not need to pull axles, driveshafts or uncage the brakes. If the deuce provides both service and emergency air as it should you will have full brake operation. Transfer and tranny in neutral, air hooked, chains and away you go. It will be a slow roll. Test the brakes, the air brakes are very strong and will feel much different than just towing something else. Leave the brakes caged if you anticipate needing them that way at your next location.

 

[M813A1]

It might be a good idea to leave the front brakes caged so they do not cause problems when you are rolling they can cause the front axles to turn in the oppisite direction as you are turning . Take hard turns slow so the front steering axles do not give you trouble. Try and styay on the hard top as much as possible, turning in dirt can give you trouble with the steering of the towed truck. Leave plenty distance for braking . Good Luck.

 

[Mike929]

It might be a good idea to leave the front brakes caged so they do not cause problems when you are rolling they can cause the front axles to turn in the oppisite direction as you are turning . Take hard turns slow so the front steering axles do not give you trouble. Try and styay on the hard top as much as possible, turning in dirt can give you trouble with the steering of the towed truck. Leave plenty distance for braking . Good Luck.

I dont think the front brakes have springs to cage?

I dont have hoses and didn't realize I couldn't buy them from a truck place, so looks like I will not be able to hook up the deuce's air to the M931a2.

Confused about not having to drop the drive shats. If there is a chance of damaging any thing by leaving them attached, I need to drop them. If I'm 100% safe I will leave them attached. Understand the military may not drop them so they can get the truck out of there, and fix as needed if it breaks something. I'm really tapped and would really be hurting if I had to replace the transmission, etc., on top of what ever else I have fried.

Appreciate all help just concerned about conflicting advice.

 

[wheelspinner]

You can make the air hoses. There are no springs in the front brakes. Go to NAPA and buy four glad hands and a couple if short air hoses. DO NOT TOW A 931 With a deuce without air. You are getting a lot if conflicting information. PM me for my number and I can help you.

 

[Coffey1]

I already sent him my number wheel spinner.

 

[Coffey1]

Hey wheel here is my # if you ever need anything 704-534-4486

 

[ke5eua]

You can leave the driveshaft connected. It is just a precautionary thing to disconnect them. As I said before, I towed a 900 series dump from Louisiana to Florida with just the transfer and transmission in neutral.

Now when you get it all running it might be a little sluggish going but it will be fine, just give it a little bit to warm up and she'll come back to life.

As far as the not needing to uncage brakes, the purpose of caging is to remove it's braking function, leaving them caged and still hooking up air lines he wouldn't have brakes on the 931.

I've had to cage a brake in the middle of a mission because it decided to seize up, just lost braking on that one set of tires.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the cage bolt hooks to the push rod.

 

[wheelspinner]

As far as the not needing to uncage brakes, the purpose of caging is to remove it's braking function, leaving them caged and still hooking up air lines he wouldn't have brakes on the 931.

I've had to cage a brake in the middle of a mission because it decided to seize up, just lost braking on that one set of tires.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the cage bolt hooks to the push rod.

View attachment 505079

Sorry, you are wrong. It is ONLY releasing the spring brakes, which are held off by air. The service brakes are still operational.