New -002A Owner looking for guidance

[Crusty007]

Like I said, I've already pulled 5/16" bolt threads out of the hub and I bent the 1/2" pusher bolt on the puller that I made this morning, so it had a hell of a lot of force on it. Of course this was accompanied by many whacks using a 3lb sledge hammer to try and get it to break free, for zero movement.

Once the center bolt in the crankshaft is gone there are NO other fasteners holding the flywheel hub onto the crank, correct? Please respond only if you absolutely know this statement to be true (or false).

If I knew for certain that I could heat that hub without damaging the alternator winding mounted to the flywheel I'd get my torch out, but I'm pretty snakebit at this point and I don't want to break something else. I'm a believer in heat too, more than any magic elixir, and I know it would work if there was no collateral damage.

Guy let's just forget about it and move on.

 

[jamawieb]

Like I said, I've already pulled 5/16" bolt threads out of the hub and I bent the 1/2" pusher bolt on the puller that I made this morning, so it had a hell of a lot of force on it. Of course this was accompanied by many whacks using a 3lb sledge hammer to try and get it to break free, for zero movement.

Once the center bolt in the crankshaft is gone there are NO other fasteners holding the flywheel hub onto the crank, correct? Please respond only if you absolutely know this statement to be true (or false).

If I knew for certain that I could heat that hub without damaging the alternator winding mounted to the flywheel I'd get my torch out, but I'm pretty snakebit at this point and I don't want to break something else. I'm a believer in heat too, more than any magic elixir, and I know it would work if there was no collateral damage.

Guy let's just forget about it and move on.

I think your only option is heat if you caused that much damage so far. I've had several motors with the stuck flywheel as you. You need to apply heat slowly and tap with the hammer. Only way to get them off. I also use an impact wrench to slowly take it off.

 

[Ray70]

Crusty, the center bolt is the only fastener holding on the blower wheel. I would retap the 5/16" to either 10mm or 3/8"
Then start over with your puller. The one I made was 1/2" tool steel with a 1/2" fine thread bolt in the center.
I was tightened down against the blower with the 5/16" bolts.
Tighten the center bolt down good, then smack the center bolt sharply and squarely with a 5lb. sledge.
Then tighten some more.
Only thing you need to worry about is not damaging what's left of the broken center bolt.
As I mentioned earlier, there is most likely no resistance on the threads of the broken bolt now.
All you need to do is find a way to grab it to unscrew it. If it's recessed somewhat I strongly suggest a left handed drill bit.
It will most likely unscrew itself as you start trying to drill into it. The key is you should put something else on or in the end of the crank so your puller does not touch the broken bolt.
If by chance it does not unscrew itself you will now have a hole ready for an easy-out.
If the bolt is flush or protruding at all, weld a slightly larger washer over the bolt, then weld either a nut or a larger bolt onto the washer.

 

[Crusty007]

Thanks Ray, that's a welcome sanity check.

Since the exposed end of the broken bolt is some 5" down inside the crank center bore the odds of even being able to drill it are not good.

I've been using two nested sockets on the end of my puller bolt to protect the crank end and to keep the bolt centered. I've also been smacking the bolt on end with a 3lb sledge while tight and the flywheel hasn't budged. I think I'm being forced into the heat corner and maybe I can heat the hub enough that it releases before too much heat spreads to the alternator winding.

 

[Guyfang]

That all folks.

 

[Crusty007]

I knew that it should be that way but I wanted a sanity check anyway just in case there was some gotcha that I didn't know about. What I don't yet know is if the part that the flywheel goes onto is a stub shaft that in turn goes onto the actual crankshaft and is also held onto the crank by that broken bolt. I'm having a hard time coming up with a reason to use a 5" long bolt otherwise.

 

[Ray70]

There's just the crankshaft under the blower wheel, no stub shaft, no other pieces in there. I have no idea why they wanted the threads so deeply recessed, but for some odd reason, that's the way they did it.

 

[Crusty007]

Thanks, that's welcome news. If I can't get down there to that broken bolt and remove it I can still leave it in and thread the outer end of the crank bore. All that bolt has to do then is hold the flywheel onto the shaft since a key transmits the torque to the flywheel and a taper centers it.

Been stormin' here today and there wasn't a big enough gap between tornados for me to go work on it.