-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
New self canceling turn signal switch (stiff)
- Thread starter Myrddin
- Start date
- 6,884
- 9,533
- 113
- Location
- Papalote, TX
I am also interested as this is not the first time I have heard that.
Where did you buy the turn signal switch?
From MME. it’s the 300$ switch. I think from my reading. It’s the not the factory switch “Nartron” which is usually in the 700/800$ plus area. I’m going to request a replacement. I hope the allow it. This switch is so tight, it bent the canceling pins on the steering wheel hub (custom wheel). If I need to pay more I will. My original switch was raptor lined and it was all gummed up. Plus the top cover so broken. I do not recommend anyone replace their switch with the cheaper one. Also make sure it says Nartron on the sticker.
if anyone knows how to make these work. I’m all ears. But I think it’s just a tolerance thing. And cheap quality.
Switch link here
- 6,884
- 9,533
- 113
- Location
- Papalote, TX
If a dealer says "replacement" then unfortunately it is usually a cheap knockoff even though it may not be "cheap" 
Ok. Follow up. I wasn’t able to return the switch for a refund. I was able to return it for a replacement, or upgrade to factory switch. Working with MME, I found that all the replacement switches were same. The factory switch would have been 400$ + more. So I decided to look at the replacement switch some more.
I found some casting that wasn’t cleaned up at the base of the cancel flap. Also the tolerance was not quite right with the cancel flap and the signal arm (when compared to factory one I removed). So I used a razor to clean out the casting I under the spring (this was causing the spring to jam against the cover when the switch arm was moved). I also took a file and rounded the cancel flap a tad to clear the signal arm, and another rat tail file to very slightly open the hole on the cancel flap. For the heck of it I also used the spring from the original switch (seemed more heavy duty). Once I did that the arm and cancel flap no longer were binding up.
Second part. I have a custom when, mounted to a steering wheel adapter. The previous owner used two screws to work as the cancel ring replacement (factory will not work with a wheel adapter). The screws were just not strong enough to cancel the flap without bending. So… I removed the wheel (which I found to be finger tight) and removed the screws. I then drilled the holes out some to fit 1/4 inch roll pins. I put some rubber protector covers on them to clean up the appearance. I then found out the bottom was loose, so that it could turn (bottom of the steering wheel hub). So I drilled through that piece into the steering wheel base. Then I drove in some 1/8 inch roll pins so the ring couldn’t rotate. When I put the steering wheel nut back on, and torqued it to 35 Fp (from what I found online). It now feels a little tight, but I’ll see how it feels after driving it some. Hopefully it’s not over tightened. We’ll see.
Long story short, it’s 100% solid. And it cancels the turn signal switch easily. So I’m going to stick with this for a bit and see how it does.
I wish I had a drill press, my only regret is that one of the pins is about 2 mm off from being vertical. The other looks great. Hand tools are tough. But it’s one of those things you can’t really see.
Thanks for your thoughts and hopefully this helps someone at some point.
I found some casting that wasn’t cleaned up at the base of the cancel flap. Also the tolerance was not quite right with the cancel flap and the signal arm (when compared to factory one I removed). So I used a razor to clean out the casting I under the spring (this was causing the spring to jam against the cover when the switch arm was moved). I also took a file and rounded the cancel flap a tad to clear the signal arm, and another rat tail file to very slightly open the hole on the cancel flap. For the heck of it I also used the spring from the original switch (seemed more heavy duty). Once I did that the arm and cancel flap no longer were binding up.
Second part. I have a custom when, mounted to a steering wheel adapter. The previous owner used two screws to work as the cancel ring replacement (factory will not work with a wheel adapter). The screws were just not strong enough to cancel the flap without bending. So… I removed the wheel (which I found to be finger tight) and removed the screws. I then drilled the holes out some to fit 1/4 inch roll pins. I put some rubber protector covers on them to clean up the appearance. I then found out the bottom was loose, so that it could turn (bottom of the steering wheel hub). So I drilled through that piece into the steering wheel base. Then I drove in some 1/8 inch roll pins so the ring couldn’t rotate. When I put the steering wheel nut back on, and torqued it to 35 Fp (from what I found online). It now feels a little tight, but I’ll see how it feels after driving it some. Hopefully it’s not over tightened. We’ll see.
Long story short, it’s 100% solid. And it cancels the turn signal switch easily. So I’m going to stick with this for a bit and see how it does.
I wish I had a drill press, my only regret is that one of the pins is about 2 mm off from being vertical. The other looks great. Hand tools are tough. But it’s one of those things you can’t really see.
Thanks for your thoughts and hopefully this helps someone at some point.
