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New to Steel Soldiers - Beginners questions - Wiring - And why did they take the front drive shaft out?

tbeson

Member
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Location
South Carolina
I am the new proud owner of a 1998 M1123, I have a couple questions about the wiring and can not figure out why they removed the front drive shaft on this vehicle and left it on the front seat?
Wiring question., Does 14 B wire go on to the white block on the side of the starter, I have figured out the 2 of the 3 wires in the bundle that chase with the primary + and - wires to the starter, but the third wire in the second smaller bundle 14B Im not sure about. In the smaller picture where does 74 C go? On the starter as well? The fuel pump was also removed and no where to be found on the truck so I am making the assumption it was needed elsewhere and took it to repair another truck? Any help or info on this would be greatly appreciated. Also I have removed the troop seats out of the back of the truck if anyone is looking for the troop seat rails.
20210329_184819.jpg20210330_174543.jpg
 

Milcommoguy

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Welcome to the site and this model of the hobby. Did you check in the owners manual? Probably blew out 🌪of the glove box with your fuel pump. LOL

74C goes to the STE/ICE connector. 14B is part of the netural starter switch and I am not sure why it's showing up there. ME bad. Time for the real TM.

Your new member free & cheap copy of the basic stuff here >
https://gear-report.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/HMMWV A1 Troubleshooting.pdf Chapter 12

To follow along with more picture and descriptions take a look in the TM's. Forty pounds of paper. There's a sticky / down load at the top of this HUMMWV section.

Just pick up a new pump below. 40 bucks. This looks to be a nice one with the vent port. 8 PSI, I tested and a Carter designed ?? made in Korea. Says so right on the box LOL. Will see how long this lasts. Many knock-off parts and now I hear PCB / EESS imported "BOXES". This could be EXCITING .......

fuel pump.jpg

OK..... FIST BUMPED the new guy (y) Now let's get to work, CAMO
 

tbeson

Member
55
13
8
Location
South Carolina
Thank you for your quick reply, What is the STE/ICE connector? Also being almost 60 years old and under a dark truck, the tag could be 74B.. does that make more sense? Where do you find the metal tag wire locations in the TM? I have searched the TM, I probably don't know how to read it.....
 

SCSG-G4

PSVB 3003
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Lexington, South Carolina
Thank you for your quick reply, What is the STE/ICE connector? Also being almost 60 years old and under a dark truck, the tag could be 74B.. does that make more sense? Where do you find the metal tag wire locations in the TM? I have searched the TM, I probably don't know how to read it.....
There is actually a thread here (maybe in one of the 'stickies') that will tell you exactly what each numbered wire is used for. Hence wire 14B will always connect the same two parts electrically, no matter what vehicle it is found in. There is a list of the wire numbers in that thread (sticky). STE/ICE is a diagnostic tool, used to find out what a problem is, and generally found in the vehicle mechanical repair shop.
 

Action

Well-known member
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Location
East Tennessee
It looks like 74B attaches to the same spot on the starter that 74A does.
74B runs up to the STE/ICE connector (the big plug by the shifter, with a screw on cover. Most of us never touch that thing.
If you have to move your HMMWV, put the transfer case shifter in HL (if the propshaft (driveshaft) is out). If not, you will just sit in place. Put it back in and see if it works or not.
 

tbeson

Member
55
13
8
Location
South Carolina
There is actually a thread here (maybe in one of the 'stickies') that will tell you exactly what each numbered wire is used for. Hence wire 14B will always connect the same two parts electrically, no matter what vehicle it is found in. There is a list of the wire numbers in that thread (sticky). STE/ICE is a diagnostic tool, used to find out what a problem is, and generally found in the vehicle mechanical repair shop.
Thanks for your help, nice to hear from another sand lapper on the forum. Old and not sure what is a 'stickie' were would I find that?
 

Milcommoguy

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
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Location
Rosamond, CA
OK... Cranky old guy here at 67 years young. At that point where I can't remember :poop:. BUT... I only have to remember where I left my notebook.

SO... One spends BIG BUCKS on that BIG busted, will always need attention "HMMWV". Spend another couple of buck and start a LOG BOOK of all thing fun and not so fun. There will be a day the interweb will take a :poop: or it's just a lot easier to flip thru a page or two.

One will be surprised how much reference material one collects to make the hobby great, maintenance easier, part numbers, pictures and money spent.... well spent. Get one with a lock on it.... should the boss of the house find it. LOL

It came with lots of history and now living a new life. Might be nice to share with the gang or when the boss decides to sell the money pit. LOL

Nice to have spell check too, CAMO

Here you go with the Wire Numbers. Use at own risk. > https://olive-drab.com/od_mseries_circuits.php <

My shelf just Humv data.
thumbnail.jpg
OK the library is closed......TM's your better friend.
Need a mechanic ? The guy is good . https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/not-humv-but-could-be.202235/
 
Last edited:

tbeson

Member
55
13
8
Location
South Carolina
Welcome to the site and this model of the hobby. Did you check in the owners manual? Probably blew out 🌪of the glove box with your fuel pump. LOL

74C goes to the STE/ICE connector. 14B is part of the netural starter switch and I am not sure why it's showing up there. ME bad. Time for the real TM.

Your new member free & cheap copy of the basic stuff here >
https://gear-report.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/HMMWV A1 Troubleshooting.pdf Chapter 12

To follow along with more picture and descriptions take a look in the TM's. Forty pounds of paper. There's a sticky / down load at the top of this HUMMWV section.

Just pick up a new pump below. 40 bucks. This looks to be a nice one with the vent port. 8 PSI, I tested and a Carter designed ?? made in Korea. Says so right on the box LOL. Will see how long this lasts. Many knock-off parts and now I hear PCB / EESS imported "BOXES". This could be EXCITING .......

View attachment 830106

OK..... FIST BUMPED the new guy (y) Now let's get to work, CAMO
Ok after some closer review, and a magnifying glass, there are three wires in question are 74 A with a red end, 74 B with a black end. and what as best as I can tell is ( 3 0) spaced far apart? I understand the 74A red and 74B go to the starter solenoid, but there is on one screw on the side of the starter solenoid. I am going to have to see if there is any other connection points on the starter solenoid other than the metal block on the side of it.

Here is the tricky on 3 0 fuel selector switch to lower left tank???? Just leave that one off??
 

tbeson

Member
55
13
8
Location
South Carolina
I gotta tell you guys, this makes the prospect of getting the M1123 started over this weekend very possible. I cant thank everyone for their quick responses!!
Thanks again.
 

jkcondrey

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Rutherfordton, NC
Whereabouts in SC are you located. I am up in Rutherfordton, not far off state line. May be able to lend a hand depending on how far off ya are.
 

tbeson

Member
55
13
8
Location
South Carolina
Im in Summerville, SC., I pass thru Rutherfordton, NC each time on my way up to Sugar Mt. NC. Great city and people. Im hoping in the next 30 - 60 days depending on my after work time getting the HMMVV up and running, thinking of taking to the OHV park in Morganton. NC
 

AOR

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Burtonsville, MD.
Regarding your front drive shaft I would suggest checking out the front differential internals as well as the transfer case front output for obvious signs why they removed it. Also check the shaft and its joints for straightness and that everything is in good shape. I can tell you my M998 came with different gear ratios in the front and back I think it was 2.56 / 2.73 so I sourced a used 2.73 and they now match. I suggest pulling the covers off of both differentials and get the numbers off the ring gear and see if the gear ratios matches and example for 4.10 ratio for easy math may be 41/10 stamped into the gear itself. I would not rely on the tags alone bolted on with the covers. This will also allow you to see the internals and their condition for a piece of mind and change the oil in them
 
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