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Newbie what to look for?

elenorzx

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I am just getting into the market for a old MV. I really like the crew cab concersions and I have no issue with a very long build process. I have Zero ideas of which truck is best for me to look for, I have seen 50's 6x6 up to the 90's in my area for sale, the condition of paint is irrelivent for me. The big question is, which years and models would best suite the future of towing a travel trailer, and convert to a crew cab, and be "decent" for driving semi regularly. Is there a good site that shows the different years/makes to compare?

Also how dificult is obtaining a title if purchasing through the auctions for surplus?
 

tommys2patrick

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Livermore, Colorado
Interesting question. Always hard to tell someone else what is best for them. Most MV's are relatively slow when you look at the speeds most people travel on the interstate. On the other hand it would probably be hard to find an MV that could not easily tow most travel trailers. Not sure what "decent" means to you. If you are talking fuel economy an MV probably won't rank very high. If you are talking noise level then a MV will probably be at the top of the charts so to speak. If your talking cushy ride then an MV probably will score low unless it has wings. A number of people and company's have done crew cab conversions on the 900 series cargo trucks ( 5 ton). They have good power, sit quite high, and are very impressive looking when standing next to one. Around town probably not so pleasant when it comes to backing and parking. So if you make a list of the things you want/must have in an MV it will help point you in the right direction. Also list the things you don't want as it will help rule out certain ones. Like tracked vehicles perhaps.
 

tommys2patrick

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On the title question--if you go the surplus auction route ask for an SF 97 form with your winning bid. It will aid you in obtaining a title eventually. Search here on the forum regarding "obtaining title" or similar. It has been discussed along with insuring these beasts. If you buy locally or from a Steel Soldiers member or vendor it would likely come with a title.
 

elenorzx

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Ok, I figured on a 2.5 ton for the size side of things not being too big, not sure I have ever seen a 5ton around (am I on the right track?). so on my list would be:
*Bob-able (the easier the better :) and I'd like to have the ability to add rear steer someday)
*Crewcab conversionable
*Multi fuel would be spectacular
*It would be good to not need a CDL so the wife can use it if needed.
*Good axels /drivetrain It will also be a play toy and needs to be used off road.

Bonus to have a winch
Bonus to have central tire inflation

No tracks... As cool as that would be....
I expect it to be too noisy to hear, and I am not concerned with getting great mileage, I only get 12.5 with my suburban, and I'm not gonna be driveing the MV a ton of miles. What is realistic to expect on these things I was surprised to see a bunch of people claiming 14mpg? Comfort of ride is important, I'd like full leather electric, massage, and heated seats..... Or not, The seats will one day be changed out for a more padded seat, not that that will smooth out the ride quality which is fine. As far as the speed, I would like to be able to cruise the interstate at 55-60mph not too likely It would ever see higher (is that within its abilities?) trailer would be less then 10-14k loaded. Even a narrowed list for me to dig into search would be great, and How much actually changed through the years?
 
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KansasBobcat

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San Antonio, TX
You might consider the size and weight of various parts. For example I have decided that the 160 lb. tire/wheel on HMMWV is as large as I can handle( I am older). The better buys seem to be in larger trucks and trailers. It is a great hobby but don't expect to make a lot of money.
 

tommys2patrick

Well-known member
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Location
Livermore, Colorado
The Bobbable and crew cab conversion might be a problem. Most bobbers have the frame length cut down. Once you do that you have a smaller bed. Then converting it to crew cab might make the bed too small to be a worthwhile project. But if you were going for an "Avalanche" type vehicle then full speed ahead. Given this I would say a deuce ( 2 1/2 ton) cargo truck would be a good choice. I would look for one with a multi fuel engine, winch, air shift transfer case for 6 wheel drive, as you are in Oregon and winters get frosty you might also look for an ether start assist or at least has not had the start preheat deleted. South of the Mason Dixon they tend to not need a lot of help starting in the winter. The deuce usually comes with non directional / cross country tires in a 9.00 - 20 size. total tire height is then 38 inches. it will run 11.00 - 20's fairly well. you can get quite a variety of tread patterns in that size. depending on what type off roading and on roading you plan to do. Larger tires than that have advantages but come with some serious drawbacks as well. The standard split ring rims are very serviceable and one man can handle them along with the 11.00 - 20 tires. bigger than this, the weights get pretty serious and can be costly. plus where and how to keep a spare? there are some other rim solutions that do away with the split rings. again if cost is no object feel free to accessorize. If you are going to cut the frame down and crew cab it then you probably don't need a deuce that still has its stakes, bows and canvas cover over the bed.

Regarding the truck speed and tow capacity. The more weight you tow/carry the more you will slow down on hills. Much more so than if you were in say an F250 diesel. However, because of its weight and low end torque the deuce would win a tug of war. That being said, bigger tires and wheels( rotating mass) under a hard load will help you find any weak spots in the trucks drivetrain and brake system. Like most vehicles, as originally designed and built, they do there assigned task in an acceptable manner. Its when we start tinkering with them that we find a change here and there requires beefing something else up. Usually we don't find that out until something goes into catastrophic failure mode. The m35a2 has a multi fuel and the m35a3 has a big cat engine and is singled out. auto tranny as I recall. so it has some advantages in that area. I have heard the big cats are expensive to work on relatively speaking.

The central tire inflation thing always sounds good on paper, but my experience has been they are problematic unless you are very diligent about servicing all the components. every o ring, valve, control circuit, rims, etc etc. Remember, the split ring rims have an innertube. if you flat out it might be possible to replace/repair the tube and be on your way. tubeless tires might not be so easily put back on the road. although you can slime tubeless tires. As the deuce has on board air and easily accessible fittings, perhaps a hose and tire fill valve are more than adequate for most people that like to air down and air back up. That air also comes in handy for air powered tools should you need to take apart something that is torqued down to five jillion ft pds or you don't have a cheater bar long enough

my two cents.
 

98G

Former SSG
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The brakes on the deuces would rule them out for me. I just don't like the single circuit brakes with a single point of failure leaving you with no brakes.

Towing a travel trailer is going to necessitate a custom hitch for any of the MVs.

Any of the diesel trucks will have a good deal more power than the multifuel, with the 8.3 leading the pack.

As to fuel efficiency, I did a 1200 mile trip recently in a multifuel M35A2C and got about 10mpg. 5-6mpg is what you'd expect from an 855 cummins. And 7-12mpg (think 9) out of the 8.3.

Instead of chopping up the frame and sacrificing 6x6 function, consider starting with an M931 and adding a bed and/or crew cab while keeping full 6x6 function. The M931 is easier to drive and much more manageable than the M35A2C. The M931A2 compares to my longed dually 3500 about like my longed dually 3500 compares to a half ton truck. That little bit of wheelbase difference on the tractor trucks makes quite a bit of difference in drivability.

M1078 is going to be the most modern, most like a civvy truck. Most complex, least amenable to work on yourself also.

I have no idea what OR's requirements are for license. You'll want to talk to someone local. I will say that your wife is going to be safer in a 939series truck than in an M35.

Edit - you've probably seen 5ton trucks and thought they were 2.5 ton trucks.

Find someone local that has the trucks you think you might be interested in and take them for a drive. There's no substitute for some seat time. Form your own impressions.

Normally I have a strong preference for a manual transmission. I have one in my Ram and wouldn't consider trading for an auto. But for MVs, the 939series trucks are my first choice, even though they have the allison auto. Without driving them and experiencing it firsthand, you'd think a deuce or an 809series 5ton would have been the choice for me... get some seat time and make choices based on experience instead of conjecture.

I suspect that all of the MVs are a good deal less tame than you're imagining...

Edit again - if buying at auction just request the title. You may wait a while for it, but you'll get it. Depending on your state, the SF97 may or may not be good enough. If buying from an individual, don't even consider a truck until the seller shows you a real title, not an SF97. The SF97 isn't transferable. Yes, occasionally people manage to title a truck using the previous SF97, but it isn't the way to bet, and may be considered a crime (skipping title).

Auction trucks are a roll of the dice. You really don't know what you've got until you pick it up. A private sale truck that you can test drive is worth at least something of a premium, depending on your tolerance for risk.
 
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JohnnyBM931A2

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Crystal Lake, Illinois
Well.. M35A3 Deuce would get you an auto tranny with central tire inflation, so you have some nice features right off the bat. You would lose the multifuel engine, but you would have a nice CAT diesel instead. But as was previously stated by another member, you will have single circuit brakes, which are risky (even more so if you plan to tow a trailer with it.)

My vote would be M939 series 5 ton. Go with the turbo 8.3L for better fuel mileage. Bigger truck, but you will love it 8)
 

98G

Former SSG
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single circuit brakes, which are risky (even more so if you plan to tow a trailer with it.)

[/QUOTE]

I disagree with your premise that the single circuit brakes are more dangerous while towing than when not towing. I assert that towing a trailer with the M35A2C actually increases braking safety.

Here's why: my first example will be a M989A1 HEMAT trailer behind an M35A2C. This trailer empty exceeds the tow rating of the M35A2C. Let's examine what happens during various failure modalities. First failure, let's examine what happens if all your brake fluid leaks from a sudden or an undetected leak. Truck brakes fail in their entirety, but since the trailer brakes are air, they function normally when the brake pedal is applied and the combination vehicle is stopped by the trailer brakes. Stopping distances may be altered, however. Second failure modality: your air compressor fails, or you lose all your air pressure by other breaks in the system. Result? TRAILER'S springbrakes apply and you stop, ready or not.

I recently towed an M989A1 with an M35A2C and can tell you that stopping distances, even downhill, we're noticeably better with the trailer than without it. Clearly the trailer was doing more than its share of the braking. Having the trailer back there greatly increased my confidence that I'd have at least some brake response even if the hydraulic system failed.

I presume that in the OP's case towing a travel trailer there would be electrical brakes on the trailer, so even if the truck's brake system failed he'd still have trailer brakes.

Given a choice though, I'd by far prefer full airbrakes with a springbrake emergency brake...
 
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