• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

painting day gone wrong

tourus

Member
197
2
18
Location
madison me.
well after a few months of planing and prep work today was it the day of painting making the M1010 green black and brown. well the primer went all great waitied a couple hours put the green waitied another couple hours got ready to do the black and to my dismay the green all blisteried and bubbled had to scape all off and get ready to do over here are a few pics of how the day went and this is the first time trying to post pics.
 

Attachments

jcappeljr

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
2,868
27
48
Location
Delta, PA.
That really sucks,I always use Gillespie paint.It goes on easy with little prep work.Post some more pics when you get it done.Good luck.
 

ranchhopper

Well-known member
1,631
139
63
Location
south elgin illinois
There is a time frame for applying a finish coat over another coat primer, paint or other I had a nice black paint job I was doing on a 37 chevy wrinkle because I applied it to long after the previous coat.
 

tourus

Member
197
2
18
Location
madison me.
I will post more pics when finshed. Should be sometime this week will see how things go. The paint and primer did go on great at first but I dont think we waitied long enough before we painted.I plan on sanding all the places that are bubbled up will get a good look tomorrow night after work to see the end damage.
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,323
113
Location
Schertz TX
Polyurethanes can generate carbon dioxide when contacting water. Water can be adsorbed on some primers, making polyurethane a very tricky beast.

This is probably the cause of the blistering.
 

natem

Member
692
17
18
Location
freeland/michigan
Any silicone will ruin your paint. Armor all, brake fluid, even anti perspernt. Some might remember the Ford issues back in the early 80's.
 

Beerslayer

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,054
55
48
Location
Tualatin, Oregon
but I dont think we waitied long enough before we painted.
This would be my first suspect. Sorry this didn't turn out nice the first time. I spent a lot of years as a professional painter and had some heartbreaking episodes amid the great sucesses.

Paint is weird. Especially if you are mixing base types as I often do. For example on a truck I need an oil based primer followed by a water based top coat. How long do you wait???

Roll the dice!
 

Woodsplinter

Member
723
6
18
Location
Phoenix/AZ
I'm not a professional painter but I usually wait a few days between primer & paint and the same for additional paint colors. Have never had any problems that way.
No point rushing after doing all the prep work!
 

Beerslayer

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,054
55
48
Location
Tualatin, Oregon
Well I ~was a professional painter and the biggest concern I have on painting trucks is how long do I wait between oil based primer on bare metal and water based top coat over that. So usually I wait a day or three for the primer to finish offgassing before I coat over that.
 

tourus

Member
197
2
18
Location
madison me.
I Do like all the input will take it all in and try again will sand what I have to and put some more on. Now for a quick question or statement looking for in put. I read all the paper work for the primer in question and it reads that if you want more than 24 hours would have to reprime then paint with in 4-6 hours. does any body know that to but the deal or what?? I have never really painted before. but the guy that did shot the paint does that for business. we did wait about 2 hours before puting green on. the temp outside was great 80's no real humedity. but any way will just back up regroup and do it again and move on.
 

JGBallew

Member
178
4
18
Location
Paducah, Kentucky
Betting that the time between coats was too short, (like others mentioned).


Before painting aircraft , I'd have a small can of MEK, and a fine scotch-brite pad. I'd dip the scotch brite in the MEK, let it evaporate some, then gently scuff the surface. Repeat this often, and blow the dust off with dry shop air.

This made sure the Imron looked smooth and free from fisheyes, and critters. You might try that. Just make sure the pad is just barely damp with the MEK.
 

82ABNMP

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
556
53
28
Location
Winston Salem NC
Paint

I Do like all the input will take it all in and try again will sand what I have to and put some more on. Now for a quick question or statement looking for in put. I read all the paper work for the primer in question and it reads that if you want more than 24 hours would have to reprime then paint with in 4-6 hours. does any body know that to but the deal or what?? I have never really painted before. but the guy that did shot the paint does that for business. we did wait about 2 hours before puting green on. the temp outside was great 80's no real humedity. but any way will just back up regroup and do it again and move on.

I would guess that you didn't wait long enough to topcoat. That would be more than 4hrs less than 24hrs. Yes, if you want to topcoat AFTER 24 hrs (without sanding) you will need to have added a hardener to the primer or there is a chance the paint will lift. Two things to do to lessen the chance of the base paint form lifting with or without hardned are:
1. Scratch the base finish first then apply the topcoat
2. When applying the topcoat put the first few 2-3 coats on VERY lightly

Applying the first coats of the topcoat HEAVY will contribute to the fresh paint wrinkling as the coatings meet and try to bond. IMHO

David
 

tourus

Member
197
2
18
Location
madison me.
So this aternoon I went over to the gararge were the truck is and did some sanding. It was kind of funny I first put 180 grit on the DA sander YA RIGHT the paint just laugh at me and the sand paper would not touch the carc paint. so put 100 grit on and that did alright but had to change often went through 12 pieces to just do the spots were it blistered. so I finally got all sanded and feathered so it is smooth. now tomorrow will hit it with 180 again and so on.but the thing I was wondering is what would poeple recomend sanding the whole truck again and primer then paint or just paint over the whole truck. or would one just paint the whole thing. I guess the big question is should I sand and prime or just paint with out sanding.the rest of the truck.
 

SteveKuhn

New member
1,227
4
0
Location
Hasbrouck Heights NJ
Cure time could be it but it could also be the primer choice.

The shop blasted my M105, then the painter blew it and epoxy primed it before spraying the direct-to-metal acrylic. I was clear about no prime, but he did it. His paint jobs are usually great but he doesn't use this acrylic. The trailer is back for a blast and reshoot, this time sans primer. Areas are peeling off; there is bleed through and bubbling in others. Yeeecchhh. Very disappointing.

Epoxy primer is great stuff under top coats made for it but not everything will: a) bond with it during it's published repaint time and b) stick to it longer term after it hardens up. Part of the theory of the right top coat/primer match is that the top coat actually softens the primer a bit when applied and the two 'weld' so to speak. Something like the effect of liquid sandpaper. If the primer and topcoat don't work that way together it doesn't go well.

Which begs the question: Does the mfr recommend (in writing, on the data sheet - not the paint dealer guy) that particular primer for the CARC? If not, I'd rethink the combination.

Steve
 
As i recall, What the Painters did where i worked (body work to military Equipment) they sprayed zinc coating on bare steel.Then primed( the primer u have pictured is a tough one to spray ) over that then did the carc (brown,Black and Green)and some of the equipment would set up for a week before they got to it as for scuffing the surface they would take a green scuff pad and go over the whole Vehicle (7ton,Hummer,105 trailer,5k) sometimes spot painting but most of the time a full out complete painting of the vehicle.

Mind you, They were doing at least four Mtvr 7 tons at a time and at least a hummer and a water trailer and water tank at a time :]
 
Last edited:

tourus

Member
197
2
18
Location
madison me.
Just to clear things up the paint and primer was recommend by Shirwin Williams when I ordered the paint I ask what primer to use they sent me the stuff. then all the research i did showed the primer and paint together so I think it was just we did not wait long enough. so now I am just trying to find out from other poeple that has used carc if I should sand the whole thing or just paint over what is there. I really love all the advice and input though dont take me wrong. just asking some questions before I try again.since it is only the cab being painted I still have about a half gal. of green left to paint then I am going to put some black to do a two color camo job. I do have about 3/4 of gal of primer so have plenty if I should put it on.
 

82ABNMP

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
556
53
28
Location
Winston Salem NC
Paint

So this aternoon I went over to the gararge were the truck is and did some sanding. It was kind of funny I first put 180 grit on the DA sander YA RIGHT the paint just laugh at me and the sand paper would not touch the carc paint. so put 100 grit on and that did alright but had to change often went through 12 pieces to just do the spots were it blistered. so I finally got all sanded and feathered so it is smooth. now tomorrow will hit it with 180 again and so on.but the thing I was wondering is what would poeple recomend sanding the whole truck again and primer then paint or just paint over the whole truck. or would one just paint the whole thing. I guess the big question is should I sand and prime or just paint with out sanding.the rest of the truck.

Use a green scuff pad and go over the whole truck, then paint.

David
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks