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planning my m818 recovery

indy4x4fab

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Ok, I'm recovering this m818 in three steps

1 - Go up look over the truck get it running under its own power and give it a long look over for furter problems.

2- Go back up change out the tires replace fuel tanks (old ones have algee growing in them, just going to clean them VERY WELL and reuse the orignals).

3 - Make final payment and sign title and drive it home (while being followed home by Djones' deuce with tow bars, a just in case).



First trips game plan

Have Preacherboy to charge the batts up over night. Check out level, unscrew oil drain plug to make sure there's no water in the oil pan from sitting. Check coolant levels. Unscrew or take loss the main fuel line coming from the fuel tanks. Plum a temp fuel line or barb on to the fuel filter. Run a rubber fuel line from the filter to the 16 gal fuel cell I'll be bring with my self. Fill with fresh diesel. Replace the fuel filter with a new fuel filter and prime engine. If engine will not prime, then I'll use my old trick in the tool box, and place a rubber hose in the air intake that leads back to a freshly filled propane tank, with a air pressure regulator inline so I can limit the amount of propane going in to the engine and re-fire, slowly cutting back on the propane as the engine start to smooth out until I don't need any propane. Let idea, check for air leaks and take for test drive around the parking lot. Remove tanks, head home to clean them for second return trip when i will be re-installing them.

MY QUESTION FOR ALL OF YOU IS............. the line coming from the tanks to the fuel filter base is it a flare fitting line or is it a NPT fitting port? As well as what size is the port or what size line will fit that port?

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/5-ton-up/73551-scraped-gold-2.html
 

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midcounty

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I don't know that I would try an initial start of a Cummins with waste oil in the fuel. I have heard of people using waste oil in 5 tons, but they aren't really a multi fuel engine like the Deuce. It may make starting more difficult.
 

porkysplace

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I would skip the w.m.o. and go with straight diesel , not real sure how a cummins will like waste oil plus you want the cleanest fuel you can get to flush the system .
 

swbradley1

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You might get away with it but I would never consider running anything but straight, nice and clean new diesel in a 250. Although guys run some mixes in their trucks I wouldn't.
 

73m819

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Take a bunch of fuel filters, drain ALL the fuel, new fuel. Unless you pull the tanks and steam clean there will be NO WAY to get the algee out. This is the 818 that was in the classified, sounded like a good deal if you take the time. I think I would FORGET the propane, a good chance of over speed (not a race engine), I would alse forget the WMO mix. the IP are expensive and not made to anything but staight fuel (maybe a gal. of 2 stroke per tank (1 to 50) for extra ip/injector lube), no matter what others tell you .

If you use a different tank, don't forget to deal with the return.
 
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indy4x4fab

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Yes, I plan to drop the tanks and steam clean them quite well, as well as before re-installing them i plan to make sure all lines are CLEANED, CLEAR, AND FREE OF ALL NON DIESEL friendly things. I have about six month to get this home so I'm taking my time and cleaning everything and checking everything I can because I have no true way to tow it home safely with anther five ton. So it has to be road ready to drive its self home. The deuce will pull the 818 but it may not stop it so it would be towing it back home at a speed of 35 to 40 mph. which would take close to 12 to 14 hours to haul it home (not my first choose of course).
 

73m819

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If you hook the air lines from the deuce to the 5t, you will have brakes if the 5t brakes are working right
 

EMD567

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Flare fitting on both side of the filter, and the hose to the IP. I would use nothing but diesel, maybe with 10% 2 cycle oil for lube on the IP. THe hose will be 90% of your problem, if it is old. My hose was OEM, and had more air leaks than a piece of swiss cheese.
I managed to get mine home from NJ with only 1 filter change. NAPA 3401 is your friend.
 

Hooty481

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i am running wmo and diesel through my 818 and havent had any problems.I think as long as you dont mix more than 50/50 then it wont get to think for the ip to do its job. as far as the recovery be sure to check all axels for propper lube and take a grease gun for all of the drive shafts and steering components. also make sure that the spring is still on the parking brake to release it. I didn't check mine and drove it back 600 miles from Mississippi to Kentucky and it burnt the parking brake up. just my experience
 

73m819

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THANKS GUYS, ok so I read over all the tow bar and recovery info and even made my self a three ring binder to hold it all, so I can put it under the seat in the 818. BUT I still didn't find any real info telling me if I can just hook the glad hands from the back of the cab up to the back of the m35a2.
the -10 just might help
 

midcounty

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THANKS GUYS, ok so I read over all the tow bar and recovery info and even made my self a three ring binder to hold it all, so I can put it under the seat in the 818. BUT I still didn't find any real info telling me if I can just hook the glad hands from the back of the cab up to the back of the m35a2.
For one they won't reach that far. You would need to have hoses with glad hands on each end to attach from deuce to the connections at the front fenders. Keep in mind if the 818 brakes fail or a tire blows ect, you would be towing a 21k lb vehicle with a 14k lb vehicle. I wouldn't do it for that kind of distance, but that is my 2 cents.
 

indy4x4fab

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Flipping threw the TM 9-2320-260-20, page 8-43 I see what your talking about. and if we did have to tow the 818 with the m35a2 it would only be because something went wrong along the wait home, kinda once u pull out there no going back deal. plus the 35a2 would be staying under 40 mph IF IT HAD TO TOW IT the rest of the way home and that with me riding in the 818s cab like the us army manual says.
 

mad46371

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algea in fuel

I used this product they use in diesel boats Its called starbrite and comes in blue bottle. It is an enzyme and breakes the alge down and will pass through the filters and injectors. I used in a air force f350 sitting since 05 had at least 2 inces of black slime on bottom of tanks. My truck started running after adding 5 new gals of diesel and a double treatment only took 30 mins. Got it home and droped tank flushed system. It made it easier to clean. I bought mine a Napa. If you get gasoline formula just double the dose.
 

fasttruck

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Civilian trucks usually have a check valve in the trailer air circut that will prevent you from charging the system through the trailer lines. This probably why you cannot find this in the tm for the 818 if it has the same check vavle which would prevent a trailer malfunction from charging the brakes on the tractor.
 

indy4x4fab

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I went ahead and bought new filters for it to day plus up graded both fuel and oil to spin on.

prices are from the Indianapolis cummins parts dealer (317) 244-7251

my engine and i.p. numbers

IP has a blue plate on it with these numbers:
709 4144G2870261
3060711 0

Engine # off data plate
10861396

It also says, thought you might be interested. Overhauled 8-88 with std rods, mains, and bore.

Cummins Part numbers

fuel filter for inside the i.p. pump - 146483 16.55

Fuel filter – fs1000 16.49
Filter base – 142784-s 25.16

Oil filter base – 3300922-s 72.59
Oil filter – lf670 17.80

plus shipping

165 total


Can one of you guys post up a picture of your fuel filter and housing the way its mounted to the truck. I'll need to make a new mount for my filter base but I want it to be in the stock location, as well as I need to know what size npt thread size the two fittings are that thread in to the filter base, so I can get the correct size reducers for the base if needed.
 
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73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
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the -10 shows how to hook up air to tow
You may like the BIG size of the stock fuel filter, holds a LOT of trash/water, easy to drain the crap out of
 
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